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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 08:31 PM
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Default 150 shot gain question

I'm trying to see if its worth it to get an actual wet kit.

My goals are to run an 11.0 or better. I think I have high hopes, but let me know if it's feasible.

01' Camaro, stock engine/trans/3.42 10 bolt.

Full exhaust w/long tubes, lid, tune, ss4000 stall, some suspension and a drag radial on stock wheels.

60ft's are low 1.6's. On motor it runs 12.33 @ 109. On a make shift dry kit which puts 45rwhp it runs 11.79 @ 114.

I would like to put a fuel pump in it, 3.73 gears, and a 28" slick (with some drag wheels and skinnys) with a 150 wet kit and shoot for the 11.0 class.

Would this be possible, or should I just leave it and continue to run the 12.0 class?

Thanks guys.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 08:35 PM
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I'd be more worried about that stock 10 bolt lol
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 08:57 PM
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^x2.....
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 09:21 PM
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Do you have large cam?
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 09:24 PM
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I agree 110%. The track is only 10 minutes from my house, so when it grenades, then I'll dump the money in it. I just don't want to do it now because when I do, I want it narrowed, then I have to buy new wheels. The cost adds up. It only sees the track 3 times a year, so I'm okay with chancing it.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 09:25 PM
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No cam, stock engine.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 11:50 PM
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I think a 4k stall is a little much for a stock cam. With an 11.00 goal I'd look into the ms3 cam I hear it likes spray.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 12:17 AM
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Actually, the ss4000 loves my stock cam. It droped me et 1.1 seconds. I'm not worried about the cam so much as I am the spray.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 12:31 AM
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11 flat is going to be tough, but very doable on the 150 shot
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 01:49 AM
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Be careful with that rear end, it can take the trans with it, it happened to me.
Good luck
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dicky98z
Be careful with that rear end, it can take the trans with it, it happened to me.
Good luck
I agree... The rear in my Yukon took out the transfer case and tranny With an automatic and a 3.42 gear you lessen the chance of failure. A progressive shot would definitely ease the pain on the rear.

You're rolling the dice though.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 10:18 AM
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10 bolts and the track do not mix... i beat the hell out of my 3.73 rear end on the street multiple 200 shot nitrous hits. first trip to the track i made 1 motor pass then on the 2nd i sprayed it and the rear whined all the way home. then it broke a month later broke 2 teeth off the pinion. my buddy has a 02 ws6 with only long tubes and full exhaust with a 150 shot and his was also fine on the street. first trip to the track he dumped it at 4000 and sprayed it shortly out of the hole and he broke the 4 bolts that hold the diff together.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 10:23 AM
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OP just because it's fine all motor so far doesn't mean it will always be lol. Id get a new rear instead of nitrous
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 10:51 AM
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Look at my signature. Im doing that on 175k motor. Keep the tune up right and you will be ok. As far as the rear and transmission, they hold up to more than people give them credit for. You will definitely need a fuel pump. As far as the gears and 28 inch tire i dont think you need them to achieve your goal.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 01:11 PM
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02, thanks for the input, that's basically the answer I was looking for.

Guys, I can't stress enough on how much I really don't care about the rear end. If it goes, it goes, and I throw another gear in it. I'm not going to go spend $3K on something that "might" break.

I have many friends that have been in the 1.4 60ft's with a stock 10-bolt. I'll take my chances. All I wanted to know was if my car would be able to run 11.0's if it stayed together.

That being said, maybe I'll leave the 3.42's in it with my 26" tires and see what happens. I think I'm going to go ahead and order that 78mm Nitous Daves plate kit. anybody have good/bad things to say about that kit? How about the N/X kit. Always been a fan of N/X, but nitrous dave does alot for LS1tech.

I already have the MSD digital window switch set to come on after 3K and turn off right before the shift (I don't spray through the shift), what else do I need (Not what can I get, i.e. nano, remote bottle opener, etc, but what do I need)?

Thanks guys.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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Also, I dont want to keep changing tunes from motor to a spray run, does someone make something to automatically retard the timing to a set * when the nitrous is activated.

I already have NGK6's in the car. I just leave them in because plugs suck to change.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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Run a stand alone fuel cell so you don't have to pull as much timing if any, that's what I'm doing
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 01:36 PM
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Also on a ten bolt with 3.73s and will also replace when she blows, not because it might
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 01:41 PM
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I've heard alot of good things about the lingenfelter lnc 2000 you can set it up for as soon as you arm the nitrous system it pulls timing.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 01:42 PM
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Do you just run race gas in the stand alone and premium in the regular gas tank?

Can you show me some pics/send info on the stand alone? I know what they are, but I would like some details on how it is set up. Info like where is the tank, what pump to use, etc...
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