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78mm Plate Kit Dyno Numbers???

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Old 03-25-2014, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by like2z28
I have a question ,my lq4 has a few mods ls6 intake 317 heads long tube headers ,598 lift cam stall conv @3600 and 373 gear Im told that the 78mm plate does not produce the power that a shark nozzle installed into the front of the mass air intake will produce better numbers than the plate ? so which is better plate or nozzle .Planning on hitting it with 100 shot ,car is not real heavy ,just a fixed roof at about 3100 lbs,anyone guess what kind of numbers at the track it will go on 100 shot
My fault I see that you mentioned putting the nozzle in front of the MAF..... I'll pass on that idea.
Old 03-25-2014, 12:03 PM
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Yeah I wouldnt put a wet nozzle in front of the maf. Get the plate.
Old 03-25-2014, 01:13 PM
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the plate has already been proven
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by derekbuckner1
sorry for all the lines. Its motor and spray before/after cam install. current numbers are in sig and on graph. been very pleased with mine. Install was very straight forward and i think it looks clean.


that dip on your dyno graph on the Nitrous pulls, is not a good thing

you need to short that out, that is a problem
Old 03-26-2014, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by DSS
that dip on your dyno graph on the Nitrous pulls, is not a good thing

you need to short that out, that is a problem
timing is only pulled when the solenoids are firing. I could alleviate that if i were to pull timing off of the arming switch, however we chose to pull timing only while spraying, and that is the dip you're seeing.
Old 03-26-2014, 02:20 PM
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i had the same issue

i have mine wired the same way, the LNC-2000 pulling timing exactly the same moment both Solenoids activate, i went thru hell chasing that dip issue (many dyno session), i did many things, i switch around with the spark plug temp, mess around tighter/bigger gap, changed out my wires also, got rid of the pusher system (NANO), positioned the nitrous bottle alot more vertical, and it finally worked out

Last edited by DSS; 03-26-2014 at 02:32 PM.
Old 03-26-2014, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by DSS
i had the same issue

i have mine wired the same way, the LNC-2000 pulling timing exactly the same moment both Solenoids activate, i went thru hell chasing that dip issue (many dyno session), i did many things, i switch around with the spark plug temp, mess around tighter/bigger gap, changed out my wires also, got rid of the pusher system (NANO), positioned the nitrous bottle alot more vertical, and it finally worked out
No I do not use a nano setup. just your standard bottle wrap, and now a billett heater. I asked my tuner about the dip when it was tuned, and he said that it was nothing to worry about and that it was just a drop due to the timing pulled for a split second until the nitrous hit. I hadnt really put much more thought into it since then, as my previous dry kit did the same thing. Whole new wet kit plate setup, and same thing. Thought it was pretty normal when timing was only pulled when solenoids are opened. Switched my mount since then to a slightly more inclined mount, so maybe that will help.
Old 03-26-2014, 03:05 PM
  #28  
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i personally dont think its normal so does my tuner, the fact that we were able chase it down, effected my A/F ratio is enough to cause concern, and the hiccups feel in a real world test(road), warrants to be an "issue"

i personally think its something much more than just how your set up is wired, because i also rewired the timing controller (LNC-2000) to activate off a switch (like the majority of people pulling timing set up) and still had the same issue

but if you dont think its an issue its okay no problem, it was just a friendly advice



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