changing my plugs, somewat of an adventure
07-31-2014, 09:45 PM
#1
Teching In
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changing my plugs, somewat of an adventure ok so im installing nitrous for the first time (01 c5z 100 shot), was about to change my plugs for tr6's and 6 out of 8 of the wires actually broke while pulling them out ( metal crimp stayed on plug and wire pulled out of crimp) and the plug where so hard to unscrew i wanted to cry (almost did).
Now i have question concerning the plugs, cuz i dont want to have these kind of issues ever again.
first off wat should i gap them at? they came at 45 out of the box
should i use some coper anty seize on the plugs?
for tightening the plugs actually have the torq rating on box so il chek it out
i ordered some granatelli wires to replace my old *** w/e **** wire that broke.
other then that my install is going great, im installing a NX proton kit with the shark nozzle
Now i have question concerning the plugs, cuz i dont want to have these kind of issues ever again.
first off wat should i gap them at? they came at 45 out of the box
should i use some coper anty seize on the plugs?
for tightening the plugs actually have the torq rating on box so il chek it out
i ordered some granatelli wires to replace my old *** w/e **** wire that broke.
other then that my install is going great, im installing a NX proton kit with the shark nozzle
07-31-2014, 10:22 PM
#3
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jul 2014
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Definitely use anti Seiz. Sorry if I misspelled that. But use that anytime you are bolting any thing into any part of the engine that's alumnium... Like the heads. Spark plugs and so on.
07-31-2014, 11:46 PM
#4
TECH Enthusiast
I second the br6 or br7 with the mentioned gap. If u plan on going with a bigger shot. The br7s will be good for that. Also use antiseize when ever a metal goes into aluminum. Also not mentioned it some dielectric grease on the wire boots. Will add another barrier against moister and help the boots slide off when u go read ur plugs
08-01-2014, 08:43 AM
#6
ok so im installing nitrous for the first time (01 c5z 100 shot), was about to change my plugs for tr6's and 6 out of 8 of the wires actually broke while pulling them out ( metal crimp stayed on plug and wire pulled out of crimp) and the plug where so hard to unscrew i wanted to cry (almost did).
Now i have question concerning the plugs, cuz i dont want to have these kind of issues ever again.
first off wat should i gap them at? they came at 45 out of the box
should i use some coper anty seize on the plugs?
for tightening the plugs actually have the torq rating on box so il chek it out
i ordered some granatelli wires to replace my old *** w/e **** wire that broke.
other then that my install is going great, im installing a NX proton kit with the shark nozzle
Now i have question concerning the plugs, cuz i dont want to have these kind of issues ever again.
first off wat should i gap them at? they came at 45 out of the box
should i use some coper anty seize on the plugs?
for tightening the plugs actually have the torq rating on box so il chek it out
i ordered some granatelli wires to replace my old *** w/e **** wire that broke.
other then that my install is going great, im installing a NX proton kit with the shark nozzle
Always a good idea to use some anti seize on the plugs for when you come back later. I would gap the plugs at .032, you won't have any idle issues at that gap. We recommend running a br7ef NGK plug for nitrous. The proton system is a great system for what you are wanting to do. If you have any questions about the install or anything else I can help with please let me know.
-Garrett
08-01-2014, 10:31 AM
#7
One thing to note on the anti-seize. You don't have to use a lot of it. Eventually it will build up and you will be wondering what the metallic stuff on the porcelain of your plugs is. It tends to throw guys for a loop when learning to read plugs. It's not necessary to use every time you pull a plug. It's still in there. Listen to the guys on the BR plugs.