The problem is all these shelf converters with their ratings are different in each vehicle. A 3600 stall in a 3100 lb car will act differently than the same stall in a 3500 lb car. I think on 150 with a wot switch it should be below 1.50. mine is 3500 race weight and best is 1.40 leaving on 100 and then another 100 progressed in with a .3 delay and .4 build. That was on my 10 bolt. Now I have a 9" and plan to leave on all of it. Generally these issues are converter related. The delay you feel is because the window switch is not activating because your stall is so tight. I have my first stage set to come on at 2800. I also have my timing retard delayed 0.2(this picked up the 60' quite a bit). I did this because my stall was a little tight. My second stage is set for 3000 on and again .3 delay with a .4 build with a start % of 30. My new stall seems to be right around 3800 on motor. I think it will be very close on 200 hit.

This is why you call a converter company and get a converter speced for your car. They ask race weight, nitrous amount, cam specs, rear gear ratio, rear tire size and type, dyno sheets if available. Having a converter speced to the combo is the key.

I also foot brake and cram it as hard as the brakes will hold.

 

Exactly why I will be sending mine out to FTI...I've had it with Yank.