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Your TPS may go up to 4.5-4.6 volts, but under full throttle that voltage can fluctuate some. If you have it set at 4.6 and it keeps fluctuating down to 4.5, the nitrous will be on/off/on/off/etc. In my experience, setting it at 4.2-4.3 volts lets it have a nice consistent hit.
^^This^^ and if you have a FPSS, throw it in the trash, and don't run one. I've had two faulty ones and the nitrous would not come on at all every time I went to the track
That's how i checked ,put a fresh set of plugs make a hit at the end of 1/4 click it off coast to a stop and pull plugs and check.If car feels like it falling on its face on the top end get out of it.they sell those gloves that are high temp that will help I have small hands I get all 8 out in ten mins..
Thanks all..looks like i need to get some hi-temp gloves. I generally like to work without em.
I measured my TPS volts and got up to 4.5 with me physically opening the TB from the engine bay, but didn't get anywhere near that when actually mashing on the pedal. Right now my scanner says I'm opening up around 94% at WOT. I had this issue sorted out prior to switching to a single plane.
I added zip ties to the throttle cable where the pedal is to no avail. Physically pulling on the throttle cable from the pedal location didn't net me any more than the 94% I've been seeing. Any thoughts? I don't think bending the pedal will help. I'm thinking the new location of the TB relative to the cable limits how much it opens.
Anyhow, when testing the RPM/ WOT switch, I could only get it to activate at 3.8 volts. Anybody encounter this issue? Again, I think the location of the TB on my single plane/ elbow have a lot to do with this.
I would get rid of tps activated switch.I used a micro switch next to the throttle body.Im not a fan of electronics controlling my nitrious mechanical switch worked every time for me.
Hm, never thought about that. I was considering "widening" the activation volt range.
So you just wired the TPS switch wire from the window switch to the micro-switch so nitrous activated between a pre-selected rpm range when the micro-switch is depressed?
Little update on my end, I was going through more testing with my window switch and noticed it wasn't activating consistently. I removed the T-tap at the TPS switch connection for the window switch and soldered it instead, and volts are being read/ displayed accurately.
09-30-2016, 02:05 PM
