2002 NBM B4C Z28 A4
hardtop 26k+ miles

Here are the current mods.

MWC FAB 9" with spool and 3.89 gears
MWC short torque arm
FLT stage 4 4l60e
Yank PT4400 stall converter
trans cooler
233/236 custom cam (Jarrett Faggart)
upgraded Tooley springs & push rods
Melling oil pump
custom dyno tune (397hp MD Dyno)(SWG Performance)
TSP 1-7/8" headers with their true duel system
Underdrive crank pulley
egr/air delete
MSD wires
Becool Radiator 160 stat
Meziere electric street waterpump
SLP lid with K&N air filter
QA1R front coil over 275# springs
removed front sway bar
Pa racing turbo k-member
QA1 rear shocks
Drag bags in rear springs (never use them)
MWC front and rear bumper supports
removed rear seat and belts
Subframe connectors
weld rt-s 15/10 with 275/50-15 Hoosier drag radials rear
weld rt-s 17/4.5 with m&h radials up front

anything not listed is how it came from the factory

3500# race weight

Best time.

2:50 pm
temperature = 50f
59%humidity
30.35 in pressure

DA= -362 ft
Relative Density: 101.06 %

1.50 60ft
6.95 1/8th
97.36 mph
10.95 et
120.81 mph

tires set at 18 psi. 2nd gear burnout.



I am about to install a 8pt Wolfe chrome molly cage. I will switch to a Circle D 4C convertor that I have also.

What kind of ET/MPH can I expect with a 150 shot?

Can I keep my 26" tires or do I need to swap them for 28"s?

 

Mine went from a 11.6 @ 119mph to a 10.5 @ 131mph in 150 jets. 6spd car That bogs on motor and I run nitrous timing all the time so the et and mph improvement is a bit skewed.

 

anyone?

 

just taking an uneducated guess,but i'll say it will pick up around .7 -.9 tenths and 10 mph or so in the 1/4.

 

My mods are pretty close to yours. I have a PT4000 which is to loose for the 150 shot but here are my gains. This is also before I installed Viking coilovers and MWC anti-roll bar

 

Your car is already hauling *** for the mods so it's hard to tell but you can expect up to a full second.

 

Would it be better to put the circle d 4c in the car, or send out the Yank PT4400 to re-stall it to a SS 3600 or 4000?

best pass on the circle d 4c n/a
1.6528 60ft
7.4188 1/8th
92.02 mph
11.6239 et
116.01 mph


best pass on the yank pt4400 n/a
1.50 60ft
6.95 1/8th
97.36 mph
10.95 et
120.81 mph

 

I went from a 10.77 to a 9.90 on a 150 shot.

 

Got a FTI SRLS 6391-3 3800 converter on the way.

 

I make about 390 ish na and 530 on the 150 shot and race weight is 3420. Last time out I went 7.2 @ 94.5 to 6.6 @ 103.8 in the 1/8. I'm running the yank SS3600 but planing to swap to a triple disc FTI soon I hope. My gains are really close to tnmotowns.

Let us know how that FTI works out for ya.

 

yep about the same, if your running high tens then 9's on a 150 shot should be doable.
I have a 4000 Circle D and have great results with it, I upgraded from a Yank and would not go back to it.
Work on your 60' and times will drop even more. 1 tenth off of your 60' is worth more on the other end.

 

Typically a 150 shot on these cars will drop you a full seond. However you are running a little better than most already so it may take a little more to crack 9s. The faster you go the more spray it takes to go faster.

 

I went from 11.60 to 9.75 on a 175 shot, if that helps.
But car was built for spray, gears, converter, glide.
3405lbs

 

Nice gains. Are you blowing through the converter? Any idea of what % slippage are you at with the 4000? Is your plan to change to a 3600? What gears are you running and what rpm are you at when you hit the traps?

 

Yeah I can just tell it's blowing through the converter. The PT's is awesome on n/a setup though. I haven't data-log it so I'm not sure on the %. I might get the Yank 4k SS next or a custom one. I have 28" tires with 3.89 gears. I believe I'm around 62-6300 RPM's going through the traps.

 

You may need a Yank SS 3600 or Circle D 3600 which will be tighter for the N2O, but not as good on motor. That's what sucks about us having auto, one setup for N2O at the track isn't exactly the most optimal setup when running motor on the street.

 

yeah exactly, that's why I sold my nitrous kit because I didn't want to remove the torque converter lol!

IF I go back to nitrous, I'll have it re-stalled

 

john your car will haul *** in a 150 shot, i would say you would gain a full second on your setup. I honestly would leave the stall you have in because it will probably stall to about 4700 or more on the 150 shot which will only provide even more E.T at the track. you can go with a tighter stall but you will lose time on both N/A and 150 shot in my opinion.

i went with a 4000stall motor for my setup. jakes claims it will do 4k on motor and 4300 on a 150 shot. we will see. but for the half second you gained on the stall a 150 shot will see the same benifits of it. imo a 150 shot is not that big of a shot to worry about stalling a converter specificly for it. especially if you are ramping the nitrouse in and not hitting it all off the line

 

Won't a 150 shot blow right through his PT4400 converter because it's not tight enough?

 

Converter results are going to very depending on power, weight and gears. A lot of people have had good luck with the SS4000 and nitrous. My car on motor alone made 500/415 unlocked. Race weight just over 3800, trapped 6.83@100.5mph and 10.72@126mph. Its a 28" tire and 411 gears through the traps at 7000 rpm, shift extension shifting at 6500 is 800 rpm. Foot braking from 1500 it flashes to 4800. Im not even going to try and spray this converter, its out with only dyno time and 3 passes to be sent back for a restall. You really need some way to log your runs to know what is really going on.

Here are some efficiency numbers I have calculated on the pass i have listed above.

2nd gear= 5836/72%, 6070/77.3%, 6336/81.6%, 6453/82.6%, 6526/85.3%

3rd gear= 5812/69%, 6026/75%, 6220/76.5%, 6442/81%, 6526/83.9%, 6743/87.5%, 6991/90%

On my dyno run that made 500/415 calulations showed 85% efficiency at 7000rpm.