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Thanks for explaining the winmax! Very helpful! Does the progressive do the same thing other than you have the ramping option as well? I could see the ramping being nice at the track potentially to avoid blowing tires off. So you spray the 150 in 2nd? Glad to see the ss4000 and trans are holding up since that's how I'll be running as well. I'd launch out of 1st, but my 10 bolt would be toast lol. I've heard it's better to have it shut off a few hundred rpms before each shift and reactivate after the shift so I plan to do the same. You run an LNC2000 as well?
I sprayed 150 out of the hole with my home-built 8.8. I would probably run a progressive controller with a 10 bolt with a 150 shot or just run smaller shots and see how the car likes it.
You should be fine with a 100 shot and have it turn on once you're already moving. I have my window switch set at 3900-6300. Logging runs showed me that my car starts moving with a launch at 3800. The nitrous hits when I'm going about 2-3 mph.
My car shifts at 6500 and I had the window switch shutting off at 6300 before shifts, but that left to much time in between the shut off and shift (about one second on the 2-3 shift according to hp tuners log), so i'll be upping it to 6400 next time.
Yes, I run the lnc2000. With 27* total timing, I was pulling 4* with 100 and 7* on 150 (to be safe, first time using it). Running a mix of 93 and 110 leaded in the main tank.
Yea i have no chance spraying 150 out of the hole with a 10 bolt. Instead of doing the progressive I'm thinking I'll just spray in 2nd with the window switch gear lock out .. that should work fine I'd think? I don't even know if the 10 bolt could handle ramping in out of 1st. Great videos and info for timing and shift points! Your car is running real good! How did you go about building the 8.8? Was it a lot cheaper than a 12 bolt?
Spraying 100+ you really want a bottle bigger than 10Lbs. I'm using a 20Lb heated bottle. I'm spraying 175 using a NOS progressive controller, 1st stage is port injected, the second stage is spraying into the manifold from both ends.
I currently have an old Nos Window switch with 2nd gear lock out that i picked up real cheap ($40).. I have now ran into a deal on a used Nos-mini, so i'm trying to decide if it would be worth it or not.. Outside of traction, what are some reasons it would be worth spending the additional $150 to move to the progressive?
Some thoughts i had were.. Is it easier on the motor and trans and will it help with the longevity of the set up? Being at roughly 450 rwhp NA, would I even want to chance ramping out of 1st gear with a 10 bolt and slightly modified 4l60e? As of now i have no future plans to invest $2k-$3k in a 12 bolt or 9".. I'd like to keep the 10 bolt and 4l60e as long as possible.
Outside of this part, I think i have my mind made up on everything else and have been piecing my kit together. I'm just stuck on this one because if it is something that will provide better longevity to the build it would be worth the additional $150 to me. I know nitrous is always a risk, but want to make the best of it.
Can the 4L60E withstand more abuse? I'm using the prog controller from the start in 1st gear, it starts spraying 0.5 sec at 20% after I floor it, then ramps up the 100% in 1.5 sec. 1st gear doesn't take long to get past redline, 6500.
Then going to 2nd gear the 2nd stage comes on.
Having control of programming the flow will save your tranny as opposed to just going from no power adder to X power adder instantly.
If you had a manual tranny I wouldn't be too worried, but I always tell guys with an auto that will usually be their weakest link.
Can the 4L60E withstand more abuse? I'm using the prog controller from the start in 1st gear, it starts spraying 0.5 sec at 20% after I floor it, then ramps up the 100% in 1.5 sec. 1st gear doesn't take long to get past redline, 6500.
Then going to 2nd gear the 2nd stage comes on.
Having control of programming the flow will save your tranny as opposed to just going from no power adder to X power adder instantly.
If you had a manual tranny I wouldn't be too worried, but I always tell guys with an auto that will usually be their weakest link.
Thats exactly the feedback i am looking for! So overall it seems like on an automatic the progressive ramp in would be a lot less devastating on the transmission. I know the 10 bolt will always be a weak point, but it seems like many are surviving out there with the autos ramping in. Some are well below the 1.6 range with just girdle covers, which is crazy lol. I appreciate the feedback, looking forward to any other input
Spraying 100+ you really want a bottle bigger than 10Lbs. I'm using a 20Lb heated bottle. I'm spraying 175 using a NOS progressive controller, 1st stage is port injected, the second stage is spraying into the manifold from both ends.
I believe the standard measure is about .8 lbs per 100hp per 10 sec. How long are you spraying that you have a 20 pound bottle?
Well i finally have all of the major parts paid for and on the way.. I think it should work great, here's what I ended up with.
92mm plate kit with 10 lb bottle, N.O. remote bottle opener, fbody spare tire mount, N.O. 300w x-series wrap heater with adjustable pressure switch, LNC-2000, NOS MINI progressive, N.O. 4AN purge, and ash tray switch panel.
I still need a gauge, hot wire kit, plugs, nitrous filter, and blow down. I am going to run my gauge right in the TCS/cig lighter panel so everything I need will be in 1 spot.
I will need to get a good wiring diagram on how to wire the mini and LNC together without a FPSS. I'd like if it didn't pull timing until it hits rather than when armed. I am thinking I will ramp out of first with roughly a 50 shot with a few second delay(as mentioned in previous posts) so I don't destroy my 10 bolt then have the full 150 in 2nd on with rpm limits for shifts.
I feel like it's all coming together and on the right track. If anything doesn't sound right let me know. Thanks again for everyone's feedback, I've been learning a lot.
Last edited by RollinSScamaro; 02-03-2018 at 09:58 AM.
I'm not familiar with the nos unit, but it should have an output wore that has power when spraying. This should be the only wire going to the lnc (unless you're doing 2 step) so then timing will only be pulled when spraying. The Inc is the easiest electronic thing I've ever installed. I'm also using it as rev limiter.
Ok perfect sounds like It should be pretty easy then. I don't plan to use the 2 step option, since I don't feel like it's real necessary for my set up. The lnc-2000 I have on the way should have those diodes in it, but will need to verify once it arrives. Are 2 requiredor will more be needed? Thanks for the info!
Ok perfect sounds like It should be pretty easy then. I don't plan to use the 2 step option, since I don't feel like it's real necessary for my set up. The lnc-2000 I have on the way should have those diodes in it, but will need to verify once it arrives. Are 2 requiredor will more be needed? Thanks for the info!
These are diodes I was mentioning to you the other day. I only used the ones supplied with the LNC unit
Good to hear you have parts on the way and your using a progressive controller.
About 2 weeks ago I posted a bunch of info with pics, when I posted it I got a pop up message that it needed to be approved by a moderator. Guess it was because I attached some pics and don't have enough posts???
It didn't have anything against the rules in it, where's the moderator???
Good info on the blow down tube, I will have to take a look at it and look for the parts you listed.
Did you make the wiring diagram yourself? Does this method only pull timing when nitrous is sprayed or when arm switch is flipped? I love the detail in the notes! This will be super helpful, I will just skip the line lock, cut out, and FPSS.
I plan to just run my current fuel set up with a hotwire kit on 93 octane. 255 pump, hotwire, and 42 lb injectors. I was told that should be good for 150 and less since it's a wet kit. I do have the BR7 plugs on my list to buy.
I'm sure I'll have to play around with the progressive a bit and find a manual for it, but I think it will work out great for my set up once I figure it out.
Good info on the blow down tube, I will have to take a look at it and look for the parts you listed.
Did you make the wiring diagram yourself? Does this method only pull timing when nitrous is sprayed or when arm switch is flipped? I love the detail in the notes! This will be super helpful, I will just skip the line lock, cut out, and FPSS.
I plan to just run my current fuel set up with a hotwire kit on 93 octane. 255 pump, hotwire, and 42 lb injectors. I was told that should be good for 150 and less since it's a wet kit. I do have the BR7 plugs on my list to buy.
I'm sure I'll have to play around with the progressive a bit and find a manual for it, but I think it will work out great for my set up once I figure it out.
It only pulls timing when the arm switch is flipped. I made the diagram in ms paint but used images of the NOS mini, solenoids and LNC 2000 from diagrams that were supplied by N2O outlet. I needed to completely map out my wiring. Your fuel system will be fine for what you are running. Did you click on the links in my signature for information on the NOS mini setup? Forgot to add, the things that you see multiple wires connected to in my diagram are called:
-DC32V 8 Way Circuit Car Boat Automotive AUTO ATC ATO Blade Fuse Box Block Holder
-DC32V 6 Way Terminals Circuit Car Auto Blade Fuse Box Block Holder ATC ATO
-Blue Sea Systems 6 Gang Common 100A Mini Grounding Busbar
I just read through the nos mini info. Just to make sure, those are the recommended starting points for settings? Is that for all set ups or based on what yours was? Tons of detail in there though! I'll probably need to go through a lot of this multiple times to totally understand. I am trying to understand the timing being pulled when it's armed. Will that cause the launch to be a little sloppy because timing is pulled too soon or will it not make a difference?
My thought was I would launch NA and then after the launch(2 seconds?) the ramp in will kick in, then kick out for the 1-2 shift then hit 150 for 2nd (ramp or no ramp)? I'm not 100% sure if that's how it works though? I'm going to have to start doing some more searches and see if I can get it all figured out.
I just read through the nos mini info. Just to make sure, those are the recommended starting points for settings? Is that for all set ups or based on what yours was? Tons of detail in there though! I'll probably need to go through a lot of this multiple times to totally understand. I am trying to understand the timing being pulled when it's armed. Will that cause the launch to be a little sloppy because timing is pulled too soon or will it not make a difference?
My thought was I would launch NA and then after the launch(2 seconds?) the ramp in will kick in, then kick out for the 1-2 shift then hit 150 for 2nd (ramp or no ramp)? I'm not 100% sure if that's how it works though? I'm going to have to start doing some more searches and see if I can get it all figured out.
What is listed in that nos mini info is a good starting point for your setup.
How it works N/A will determine how you can start out on your spray and how soon you can bring it in. You can stretch the ramp longer to start and make adjustments depending on what it's doing. Log the runs and adjust from there.
01-13-2018, 04:12 PM
