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Stupid question. Fuel pressure saftey switch. 2 contacts, does it matter how its wired up on the fpss itself or just hook up one side and ground the other?
Stupid question. Fuel pressure saftey switch. 2 contacts, does it matter how its wired up on the fpss itself or just hook up one side and ground the other?
Run it off ground pin 85 of the solenoid relay. Doesn't matter which pin on the fpss you use. See diagram in post 20 here:
It has a spring in it that is defeated by the fuel pressure. So long as it is defeated, the circuit is connected but if the pressure drops, the spring extends and the connection is broken.
Let's talk gauging.
What gauge wire should i use from the power (bat) to the relay.
Also the solenoids have 18gauge wires . If im running the solenoid nitrous + and fuel + into 1, the neg also what gauge would be good for that?
What all switches are in your car now? Do you have line lock or cutouts?
It's best to decide what all you want to have so that you can determine what kind of switch panel to get.
For wiring, you can get 14 awg SPDT 5 pin relays and use mostly 14 awg wires. You'll want to run a fused distribution block and use 8 awg wire from the battery to that distribution block. Search on amazon the following:
DC32V 6 Way Terminals Circuit Car Auto Blade Fuse Box Block Holder ATC ATO
Blue Sea Systems 6 Gang Common 100A Mini Grounding Busbar
DC32V 8 Way Circuit Car Boat Automotive AUTO ATC ATO Blade Fuse Box Block Holder
You can use this wiring diagram and simply remove the components that you don't plan on using.
TPS signal is Pin 24 on the Red ECM its a blue wire
Tach signal is Pin 10 on the Red ECM its a white wire
You will want to run a fuse tap from the IGN fuse for that.
The wire u have tapped up to is in a BATT fuse location im assuming is power all the time.
The bottom left one is ignition power, which is power with ignition on.
The one next to the 5amp fuse on the bottom is ACCY. Is that only for when the accessories are on (like dash gauge etc)?
The wire u have tapped up to is in a BATT fuse location im assuming is power all the time.
The bottom left one is ignition power, which is power with ignition on.
The one next to the 5amp fuse on the bottom is ACCY. Is that only for when the accessories are on (like dash gauge etc)?
Just curious now
Yes, BATT is power all the time. I tapped into that for some of my aftermarket gauges. The IGN is the one you want.
Any idea why the nitrous wants to activate with ignition on but when motors running it will not activate at WOT at all.
I bypassed the FPSS.
I set my progressive as in the link posts above except #4 we did 99%
The tps set itself at 4.7v again i cant see it mot reading 4.7v if it reads with ign on car off but not the other way around.
Im thinking maybe tach wire reading? I set the start at 0 and 3k and still nothing with car running.
You can hear the solenoids click and nitrous spraying with ign on car off.
15 (Solenoid Frequency 15 hz recommended)
C - 04 (RPM signal Set-up - 4 cylinder)
P - 00 (Ramp Pause Mode - ramp is reset when deactivated)
1 - 30 (Activation RPM - 3000)
2 - 68 (De-activation RPM - 6800)
3 - 00 (Delay time - 0 sec)
4 - 40 (Start % - 40%)
5 - 10 (Ramp time - 1.0 seconds)
6 - 99 (End % - 99%)
7 - 00 (Control output delay - 0%)
8 - 02 (TPAS mode - 02 = TPS Signal)
9 - 45 (TPS Setting - auto learn by going
Thanks for any input
Bobby
Had a very similar prob. Nothing would work with car running and window switch set to anything besides zero. Set window switch to zero and it'd work as soon as you went wot. Sent controller back as that's what customer service recommended. Got controller back and did the same as before, only worked with window switch set to zero. Never did figure it out, kid waited to long to return it again so it's just added weight in the car now.
Had a very similar prob. Nothing would work with car running and window switch set to anything besides zero. Set window switch to zero and it'd work as soon as you went wot. Sent controller back as that's what customer service recommended. Got controller back and did the same as before, only worked with window switch set to zero. Never did figure it out, kid waited to long to return it again so it's just added weight in the car now.
I may have figured it out bit I have to test it.
I had the cylinder set at 4. My idle was around 1k (cold) and the programmer showed 2k.
So any rpm would have been double.
My converter stalls at 3200 so the controller would see 6400 which is where I have the window set off.
So I'm basically missing my window.
I set the cylinder to 8 and the rpms match up. So now I gotta test it.
I may have figured it out bit I have to test it.
I had the cylinder set at 4. My idle was around 1k (cold) and the programmer showed 2k.
So any rpm would have been double.
My converter stalls at 3200 so the controller would see 6400 which is where I have the window set off.
So I'm basically missing my window.
I set the cylinder to 8 and the rpms match up. So now I gotta test it.
I totally didn't put it together that it was you I was talking to on FB. Doh! lol
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