Plug read help.. 175 shot 9.19 et
still at it, went to Sturgis SD 1/8 mile for small tire shootout. Got a bunch of testing in but learned 3400ft track elevation is no joke. DA was over 4500 for the day. That said got some new best. 200 shot with 9 degrees pulled went 5.69. 225 shot with 11 pulled went 5.58@123, 1.25 60. Best 60 of the day was 1.24. Only changed since last video was more timing, anti roll bar setting change, 28x10.50 stiff wall m/t's. Leaving at 3000 rpm 2-step 40% progressive ramping 100% at 1.1 on 200, 1.3 on 225. Still on straight C16.
200
https://youtu.be/gT-G6GmHSbA
First 225
https://youtu.be/mgGzObrxaS4
Adjusted front end limiters and shocks, slowed ramp from 1.1 sec to 1.3. 225 shot
https://youtu.be/SGDPM0VMYdQ
200
https://youtu.be/gT-G6GmHSbA
First 225
https://youtu.be/mgGzObrxaS4
Adjusted front end limiters and shocks, slowed ramp from 1.1 sec to 1.3. 225 shot
https://youtu.be/SGDPM0VMYdQ
Car looks good, still like your red truck though! Kinda shocked to see a nitrous car and not a turbo car. I would work on the suspension, scale the car, get suspension dialed in and then you can leave on 300 with no progressive.
Your going the right direction with the tuning creeping up on it but dont get hung up on you have "x" amount of degree's in it or if its at "x" afr if thats what the motor wants then thats what it wants. One thing to always remember is the plugs DONT lie, if the plug show to much timing, then it has too much timing, if they show its rich then its rich. If you read your plugs and look at your data logs each pass you'll keep going faster but your already off to a hell of a start.
Lance most likely has more automotive knowledge than anyone on this forum, having done engineering work for more major manufacturers than you can spell, and has been involved in R&D work for more types of racing and powersports than you've ever spectated.
Don't be an *******. As far as I'm concerned, his words are gold.
Don't be an *******. As far as I'm concerned, his words are gold.
TFD Sparkplug Hi Joe, thanks, so I ask : I am designing a TFD Sparkplug working with Jeffery B. at Fram that will NOT "cut" when fed 1 J of energy, the IGN-1AFD coil's output.
My question is the concern for ceramic inspection with my method of a "two" piece sparkplug steel body ?
I like their Autolite "X" gap design as this STOPS insulator drop into the cylinder, better than the E-3 method.
What do ALL here think of a three piece Spark Plug, a design that could allow inspection WITHOUT cutting ?
Lance
My question is the concern for ceramic inspection with my method of a "two" piece sparkplug steel body ?
I like their Autolite "X" gap design as this STOPS insulator drop into the cylinder, better than the E-3 method.
What do ALL here think of a three piece Spark Plug, a design that could allow inspection WITHOUT cutting ?
Lance
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Little update, traveled from ND to Nebraska for a small tire shoot. Just trying to get a few more runs in before the snow falls. We ended up getting second place out of a 8 car shootout. Wasn’t able to make the last race because after the burnout the car had a knock in it so I shut it down. It’s either a main or rod bearing. I been watching a low oil pressure issue since I got the car and after 3 track visits it spun. Any case should have Engine at local builder within a few weeks to get a complete update on her. Hope it’s a simple fix cleanup and bearings. Attached weekend fun! Was a great weeekend even though we didn’t get to finish last race.
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Thanks man! As for the dash it’s a fiber glass piece. It’s secure in the fact it won’t come loose but she flex’s pretty good on the 60’s. It needs a bracket fab’ed to go down the middle to tie to together better.
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I would think 300 on no progressive would be a little tough on the Engine. What rpm you bring something like that in at? When is to early to spray? I been hitting it at 3000 at 40% currently and it flashes to 5500 on the hit. So far that’s been 1.24-1.30 pretty much every time.
Also is there any advantage to hitting it through the motor first before making the pass? I have been once but wasn’t sure if that was just more wear and tear.
Last edited by foose04; Oct 23, 2017 at 03:04 PM.
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Pro's so far is super simple staging and ease to get a better light and hard 60 time. Big cam also sounds cool as hell and the sob is just plain loud. This car has 2" stepped to 2 and 1/8th headers to a 4" collector and then a 4" long muffler/dump. And god bless its loud. As close to a race car feel as I personally have felt.
It's just a different beast, I think a turbo car will live longer and go faster. The nitrous car is pricey but old school cool.
I like the nitrous mustang. I think once dialed in it will run like hell. Its doing pretty good for what u are hitting it with. Besides u have a turbo truck and a nitrous mustang. What more could u ask for.
Thanks man, good to hear from you! Good chance the car will end up turbo but I never had a nitrous setup so wanted to see what it was all about and give it a chance before swapping.
I would think 300 on no progressive would be a little tough on the Engine. What rpm you bring something like that in at? When is to early to spray? I been hitting it at 3000 at 40% currently and it flashes to 5500 on the hit. So far that’s been 1.24-1.30 pretty much every time.
Also is there any advantage to hitting it through the motor first before making the pass? I have been once but wasn’t sure if that was just more wear and tear.
I would think 300 on no progressive would be a little tough on the Engine. What rpm you bring something like that in at? When is to early to spray? I been hitting it at 3000 at 40% currently and it flashes to 5500 on the hit. So far that’s been 1.24-1.30 pretty much every time.
Also is there any advantage to hitting it through the motor first before making the pass? I have been once but wasn’t sure if that was just more wear and tear.
Purging through the motor is a very debated thing, ask 5 engine builders and get 6 different answers, I have done both but in the last few years none of our nitrous cars have had a bang button wired in, we just used a regular purge per stage.
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Good to know, I really appreciate the info/advice. I actually wasnt even using a button, just taking it up to 3000 and going wot. This isn’t a perfect system either as it engages my edlerbrock progressive so I have to set it at 30%, a quick blirp would get me to 40%, then I would leave from there. Kind of a half *** deal.
In my logs I’m getting about .4 seconds of leanness on the hit, it last from 3k to 56-5700 it cleans up and settles down to mid 12s. (Leaness as in 16-17s) Should I be concerned about this? I have no current way to bring the fuel in at a higher ramp, only other idea is shortin or lengthen hoses but I thought that was a thing of the past. This was another reason I liked hitting it once to get the fuel flowing. Only other option is add fuel in the VE table to help cover that area as once I pass the 4K to 5500, I never see it again on the pass. I also feel that larger shots this is only going to get worse. Thoughts?
In my logs I’m getting about .4 seconds of leanness on the hit, it last from 3k to 56-5700 it cleans up and settles down to mid 12s. (Leaness as in 16-17s) Should I be concerned about this? I have no current way to bring the fuel in at a higher ramp, only other idea is shortin or lengthen hoses but I thought that was a thing of the past. This was another reason I liked hitting it once to get the fuel flowing. Only other option is add fuel in the VE table to help cover that area as once I pass the 4K to 5500, I never see it again on the pass. I also feel that larger shots this is only going to get worse. Thoughts?
Last edited by foose04; Oct 25, 2017 at 08:47 PM.
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the lean on the hit is usually from the fuel not being sprayed as fast as the nitrous. Usually when u purge only the nitrous side u can still have air in the fuel side. That's why most use a bang button.
Good to know, I really appreciate the info/advice. I actually wasnt even using a button, just taking it up to 3000 and going wot. This isn’t a perfect system either as it engages my edlerbrock progressive so I have to set it at 30%, a quick blirp would get me to 40%, then I would leave from there. Kind of a half *** deal.
In my logs I’m getting about .4 seconds of leanness on the hit, it last from 3k to 56-5700 it cleans up and settles down to mid 12s. (Leaness as in 16-17s) Should I be concerned about this? I have no current way to bring the fuel in at a higher ramp, only other idea is shortin or lengthen hoses but I thought that was a thing of the past. This was another reason I liked hitting it once to get the fuel flowing. Only other option is add fuel in the VE table to help cover that area as once I pass the 4K to 5500, I never see it again on the pass. I also feel that larger shots this is only going to get worse. Thoughts?
In my logs I’m getting about .4 seconds of leanness on the hit, it last from 3k to 56-5700 it cleans up and settles down to mid 12s. (Leaness as in 16-17s) Should I be concerned about this? I have no current way to bring the fuel in at a higher ramp, only other idea is shortin or lengthen hoses but I thought that was a thing of the past. This was another reason I liked hitting it once to get the fuel flowing. Only other option is add fuel in the VE table to help cover that area as once I pass the 4K to 5500, I never see it again on the pass. I also feel that larger shots this is only going to get worse. Thoughts?
If your running a dedicated fuel cell you can add a fuel bleed line with a jet in it and that’s with help get rid of the lean spike.
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So I've always wondered, especially for guys with dedicated fuel cells, why not have a fuel purge solenoid and the line can just return into the cell?
Seems like a nice way to get the same effect as a bang button without the *debated* but *possible* danger to the motor
Seems like a nice way to get the same effect as a bang button without the *debated* but *possible* danger to the motor
Some people do use a purge on the fuel side but I don't think it helps, just my opinion. Looking at the op's setup I think he'd benefit from dropping the fuel noid below the carb level so that the line from noid to plate is up hill and not draining the line after shutting it down every time. Nitrous is alway higher pressure and bigger jets so it's going to win the race every time to the engine so you have to cheat and compensate for the fuel to make it a even race.
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Thanks for the info, I’m going do the bleeder system for the fuel. Can only help and it isn’t pricey to do.
Also who runs a airfilter on their stuff? I had my oil analysis done before last outing and I was told my oil filter was showing signs of being clogged after only 10 passes with no filter. Any issues on the bottle with a filter?
Also who runs a airfilter on their stuff? I had my oil analysis done before last outing and I was told my oil filter was showing signs of being clogged after only 10 passes with no filter. Any issues on the bottle with a filter?
So how are the plugs looking on the more recent runs?
I had issues getting the cad plating to burn off the ground strap and give a clean indication on conservative 1/8th mile passes as well. Can you run it out the 1/4 and take a look? Should have your clean heat mark then... Looks super conservative tune wise IMO.
Good example of on the edge "safe" IMO. Just into second thread and 3/4 down ground strap.
I had issues getting the cad plating to burn off the ground strap and give a clean indication on conservative 1/8th mile passes as well. Can you run it out the 1/4 and take a look? Should have your clean heat mark then... Looks super conservative tune wise IMO.
Good example of on the edge "safe" IMO. Just into second thread and 3/4 down ground strap.
