The bleeder line is the way to go. We dont run a filter on a track only car. If it see's any street time then it has a filter.

 

These been in the trailer now a couple weeks but these are from the last couple passes. One is with a 230 and 11 timing pulled from 29 and lastly a 250 pulling 13. The 230 went 125.1 mph and 250 went 126.9 but had a little stumble off the tree. I think it’s because the timing needed to be stepped out longer but I didn’t get another pass in to confirm it. Only other change was fuel was straight c23 as my vender was out of c16.

250 hit

 

My opinion. To rich. Need to get the fuel right before adding any more timing.
Cut off the thread and snap another photo.

 

might hose them off with a little brake clean so you can see the heat path into the threads.

 

Not the best job cutting but I got them.

Also carb cleaned the threads. Target afr was 12.70, I was within .4 of that + or - down the 8th on the wideband.

All opinions welcome, unless you want to give me a hard time on cut job.

(Click and open pictures in new window for none jacked up pictures, not sure why it does that sometimes)

 

Well if that were my motor ( mind you I do run a forged 370) I would lean that out to 13 on your afr. It's rich. Heat looks fine to me. Don't add timing till you get a clean run.
It tough to get hole to hole fueling yet.
Do you log? Why are you getting a .4 variance? Is that .4 super fast corrections? Holley ?? What's the percentage of the swings?

 

Hopefully you can see that picture. That's a decent fuel ring. When I get to there I will start to play with timing. Also if you think your a little lean add .2 to your commanded AFR and see if it picks up mph. If not your in good shape.

 

See this one it's a tiny bit lean but no carbon on the threads.

 

Put the plug in your cordless drill and use a hack saw. Makes less of a mess than a cutoff off wheel. I do it right over my garbage. largeish teeth on a new blade... takes very little time.

Difference between 12.7 and 13.0 isn't going to do diddly IMO. I'd rather be a little fat personally.

There still is no sign of major heat in the plugs. And now that you've bumped up to C23 it may need even more lead. I'd bump it a degree and see what the plugs look like. If there's no discernible heat mark then add another degree. C16 is some slow burning fuel... takes alot of advance. Even more so with C23.

If you bump a degree at a time and watch the plugs close, I've never been bit. Plugs will tell you if it's getting too hot...

 

Hi Foose, your plugs look great.

I would add : Look at the "sharp" edges of the Ground Strap/Electrode as machined when new/never ran.
Then compare that observation with the plug after a pass/passes.

Report here with a picture of THAT focal point ?

I use a microscope, the one I use for circuit board inspection.

Lance

 

I agree with forcefed to a point. But adding timing to generate heat can go wrong quick. That's what I used to think. See example. Kept adding timing to put heat in plugs and whoops. Mind you these were stock pistons and 200 shot. But it's my opinion stay safe on timing until your close with fuel. To much fuel and a small timing adustment cause the detonation. If it's a little lean and to much timing shows up as burnt straps. Or little black specs, not a busted piston.
I get fuel correct then add timing back in. If it picks up your ok. If it doesn't pick up mph you have to much timing.

 

Just FYI that's most likely not detonation. You butted a piston ring and lifted the top of the ringland off. Needed to open the gaps up more... What were they gapped at?

If you know what you are looking for and take baby steps you *should* see signs well before detonation sets in with good fuels. IMO he has the fuel dialed in fine. If the plugs don't indicate one cylinder is much leaner than another, I'd say he's good there.

 

She’s out getting freshened up and inspected. Also getting mains pinned and block half filled. Considering switching from the real street plate to the sledgehammer or going direct port. Any one have similar experience making the switch? Would really like to get this car setup on around a 300 and let it ride every time out on it.

 

Hi Foose, this is a picture of my son tuning your father car, the Foose Coupe.
My son assembled Chip's cars when he worked at Metalcrafters.

I would fit billet caps ?

Lance

 

Hey Lance, I appreciate your posts and information you post up Sir. However, sorry if my screen name confused you. My name is Rob Melcher and my screen name comes from my GMC Sierra RST that was designed by chip foose and is a 2004 year.

As for the Billet Caps, will they play well with an aluminum bottom block?

 

Hi Rob, understood, though your appearance is similar.

My experience, as others, is the OEM "powdered metal" main caps will break at the 1000HP (bench) power level.

You may have a easy find of "take off" LS-7 mains, 2nd hand caps from a destroyed LS-7 crankcase.
I have fit these OUT OF SEQUENCE with only an Align Hone required, good luck.

Lance

 

Nitrous Outlet has some very nice plates out, they also do some top notch direct ports. 99% of the nitrous cars we tune have systems from Nitrous Outlet. Our nitrous C6Z06 has a plate (100 shot) and direct port (500 shot) on it from them. If you havent looked at their new plates I highly recommend giving them a call or we are a dealer for Nitrous Outlet also and can help you out.

 

Little update, the damage report and rebuild. Damage was #1 rod bearing. This damaged the rod and then the piston kissed the valves bending those. The piston was out of spec for the wrist pin so also needed replaced. He also replaced the rod next to as a precaution. The block was half filled and had to be line honed after but we still fell into spec with the piston requirements so didn’t have to go bigger. Replaced oil pump and pickup tube. Unfortunately the previous owner did some custom work/drilling on the flexplate and hurmonic balancer so both those had to be replaced as it looked like they tried to externally balance the setup. I upgraded to the TCI machined flex plate over a hand drilled operation he had before that also didn’t have a crank adapter. That said, need a few little things to drop it in, but here’s some mock up photo’s. Oww, also went smaller on cam. Bob Cook at cam motion spec’d it, but basics is going from similar lifts and lsa, but going from a 271/291 split to a 258/274. I wanted the Engine to perform and shift earlier at around 7200-7400 shift instead of 7600-7800 like the old cam wanted.

 

Any thoughts to why that happened? Crank flex? Not balanced?

 

Hard to say, engine was down on oil pressure when I got it. It was advertised to have a mellings oil pump, car had what appeared to be a factory shimmed pump. Tune was also **** when I got it, so who’s to say what got it to that point, not to mention the external balance job. Good news I can move forward with a fresh setup and my tuning.