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Yes, been done by many. No big deal, it's like 5.3 SBE junkyard motors making over 800 hp.
my 5.7 true daily went 10:60's. My 6.0 never been apart bottom end went 6.0's in 8th and 9's in 1/4.
Don't get me wrong it's not like just hit it with a 200 shot and your good, you need to have a good tune.
On a stock bottom end with hyper u crapped it pistons?
I'm running a 300 shot (32n jets in a direct port) in my daily driver with stock pistons and I spray it like I stole it. I have a commercial account for nitrous with a refill station at home. If I'm really trigger happy, I can easily burn through 60 pounds of nitrous per week. These LS platform motors can eat if you know what you're doing.
So with a good tune it can be safely done and stay together. No changes to the stock rings just spray away? Are you running a dedicated with direct port or a plate system?
So with a good tune it can be safely done and stay together. No changes to the stock rings just spray away? Are you running a dedicated with direct port or a plate system?
Yes, 100% stock motor other than headers and dual exhaust with no cats. Ring gap is stock but that's why I'm so conservative with the timing. You get the rings too hot and you'll pop ring lands.
NOS Pro Shot Fogger direct port set up with a dedicated stand alone fuel system.
Yes, 100% stock motor other than headers and dual exhaust with no cats. Ring gap is stock but that's why I'm so conservative with the timing. You get the rings too hot and you'll pop ring lands.
NOS Pro Shot Fogger direct port set up with a dedicated stand alone fuel system.
I went 0.23 on the top ring and 0.25 bottom on my build so I'm guessing a 200 shot on a plate system will work just fine. Definitely going with a dedicated fuel system with race fuel but my gut tells me to just keep saving until I get the $$ for the direct port system. Don't you have to buy or make something to pull timing when you arm the NOS?
I pull timing with HP Tuners by modifying the values in my IAT correction table. I have a switch that turns on my NX Maximizer 4, my fuel pump in my stand alone fuel cell, and also powers a relay that changes the resistance in my IAT sensor circuit making the computer switch to different cells with modified timing values.
If you're going to run a decent sized shot with a plate (above 150), you need to be able to read plugs and tune to the hottest hole. And don't be afraid to stay a little conservative. You don't have to have the timing mark all the way in the bend to have fun and make good power.
Also, you need to run a nitrous specific fuel (VP NO2 or C23) in the stand alone. We're already living on the edge running good size shots with pump gas in the stock tank. It blows my mind when I see 93 octane stock tank, big hit nitrous guys with a stand alone running some random @ss race fuel not blended specifically for nitrous use. WTF? I get it, C23 is expensive, but so is popping a motor. I'd much rather pony up the 23 bucks a gallon for the best nitrous fuel on the planet.
Last edited by '68LT1camaro; 07-08-2018 at 11:26 AM.
For my tune I run X16 now for years, forgot why I went to it in my standalone. But now I'm motor and nitrous on E85. Going to be testing and pushing some limits lol. Hopefully the plug strap will melt first.
For my tune I run X16 now for years, forgot why I went to it in my standalone.
I know we talked about your setup before but I can't remember. Were you running pump gas in your stock tank? VP says X16 is good up to a 300 shot but they're implying 100% X16, not just in the stand alone.
X16 is good stuff but why risk it when NO2 has a better margin of safety and is only slightly more expensive?
Originally Posted by Bowtiedford
Hopefully the plug strap will melt first.
Hopefully nothing melts. I'm curious to see how far E85 can go but I don't want to be the guinea pig. LOL!
I only used x16 in my standalone, 2 people rec. it, one sprays 400 with it all the time, but as he said gotta know how to read everything. And he's a full second faster then me lol.
Yeah on E85 it's so hard to read plugs, air fuel gauge and engine temps will be monitored for sure and small baby steps. My carb has 98 and 108 jets and even looks like it could use more.
If I ever go back to a standalone probably would try the VP NO2, heard good things.
Can't wait to try the Puck, supposed to be so much better distribution then my old 102 2 stage plate. Hoping for some 8 sec slips, was close on my old setup but on a very hard run.
hey thanks for the question. Its just my opinion but I think in racing you should build your own car, race your own car. I don't buy this 50 people work on it and 1 guy driving stuff, that isn't skill on behalf of the owner/driver its just $$$. Anyone can win with $$ **** give me $9999999999 and watch I win every race. I'll buy every team and every player and every engine and all the media and be the only one on the track. And the news will say Im the best. And I didn't lift a finger. It isn't racing.
Nitrous is different because no skill required. You wana add a turbo to your car by yourself in the backyard you need some skill. A supercharger is kind of also skill-less but at least you have to actually turn a wrench or two.
I have to bring this post back because I am hearing this type of nonsense more and more.
So for those who feel this way, I have to ask.
Do you drill and fill your own teeth?
Did you build your own house?
So if you lose a race and it helps you feel better about it to say, "well I built my own car while dude X had someone build theirs", cool,
But you still lost
A timeslip does not care how much money you spent, or who built the car.
04-21-2018, 12:00 PM
