26* at WOT for a 50- 100 shot??
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26* at WOT for a 50- 100 shot?? so I have a 2014 1le that’s basic bolts ons (intake, exhaust,tune) and had recently installed a wet kit. I took it to a Local performance shop that does all ls cars to finish the wiring and do my bottle heater. After talking to them I told them my plans of running a 50 just to make sure everything is working nicely together then going to a 100 shot. I have been a little worried because I have a diablo i3 tuner which has a revised email tune that when I live log shows me at 26* at WOT. I planned on pulling the standard 2* per 50 shot but these guys say 26* is already quite low and I shouldn’t pull anymore that I would be fine up to 100 shot. Any other thoughts?? This has me torn now and I’m scared to just go spray it and see. And advice is greatly appreciated 👍🏻
Always retard timing and run the correct spark plug(BR7EF). Your motor runs 26 degrees of spark at WOT because it is efficient. It doesnt mean that you can add 100hp to it and 26 degrees be what it wants.
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Ok, got it. That’s what I thought but they made me question how I was going about it. I run all nitrous outlet stuff and use the winmax. Do u agree using a timing retard module with the winmax is best?
Sweet! and yes, with the stock computer, the LNC-2000 is definitely the way to go. You can set up the winmax to trigger the LNC.
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that’s great info. Puts some real world reference for me to feel better about what I was doing. These guys kinda got me question everything haha. Thanks!!
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I read that the high octane table for a 2000 SS for example has 29 deg. at 3200 rpm for the whole upper half of the cyl. air range, and 29 deg is the peak wot timing across the rpm range.
We tuned the car for a 150 shot on the dyno pulling 6 degrees of timing on BE7F plugs, making the timing 23 at wot. Gave the car the fuel it needed per dyno testing. Does anyone have any real world data showing that pulling plugs at the track at the end of the run and checking to see if heat is running on the bend of the strap to see if you have too much timing or too little worth the trouble? No idle time on the plugs during this process where you start it up, run it and as soon as you let off the throttle, shut it off and coast to a spot where you can pull #7 plug, never running the same plug twice. I mean lets say I can get away with pulling only 5 deg of timing instead of 6 or 4 deg of timing and still be perfectly safe. What if anything is that going to do to improve my ET or MPH. If I was running a 200-300 shot I could understand checking plugs. Is all this worth the trouble for just a 150 shot?
We tuned the car for a 150 shot on the dyno pulling 6 degrees of timing on BE7F plugs, making the timing 23 at wot. Gave the car the fuel it needed per dyno testing. Does anyone have any real world data showing that pulling plugs at the track at the end of the run and checking to see if heat is running on the bend of the strap to see if you have too much timing or too little worth the trouble? No idle time on the plugs during this process where you start it up, run it and as soon as you let off the throttle, shut it off and coast to a spot where you can pull #7 plug, never running the same plug twice. I mean lets say I can get away with pulling only 5 deg of timing instead of 6 or 4 deg of timing and still be perfectly safe. What if anything is that going to do to improve my ET or MPH. If I was running a 200-300 shot I could understand checking plugs. Is all this worth the trouble for just a 150 shot?
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I read that the high octane table for a 2000 SS for example has 29 deg. at 3200 rpm for the whole upper half of the cyl. air range, and 29 deg is the peak wot timing across the rpm range.
We tuned the car for a 150 shot on the dyno pulling 6 degrees of timing on BE7F plugs, making the timing 23 at wot. Gave the car the fuel it needed per dyno testing. Does anyone have any real world data showing that pulling plugs at the track at the end of the run and checking to see if heat is running on the bend of the strap to see if you have too much timing or too little worth the trouble? No idle time on the plugs during this process where you start it up, run it and as soon as you let off the throttle, shut it off and coast to a spot where you can pull #7 plug, never running the same plug twice. I mean lets say I can get away with pulling only 5 deg of timing instead of 6 or 4 deg of timing and still be perfectly safe. What if anything is that going to do to improve my ET or MPH. If I was running a 200-300 shot I could understand checking plugs. Is all this worth the trouble for just a 150 shot?
We tuned the car for a 150 shot on the dyno pulling 6 degrees of timing on BE7F plugs, making the timing 23 at wot. Gave the car the fuel it needed per dyno testing. Does anyone have any real world data showing that pulling plugs at the track at the end of the run and checking to see if heat is running on the bend of the strap to see if you have too much timing or too little worth the trouble? No idle time on the plugs during this process where you start it up, run it and as soon as you let off the throttle, shut it off and coast to a spot where you can pull #7 plug, never running the same plug twice. I mean lets say I can get away with pulling only 5 deg of timing instead of 6 or 4 deg of timing and still be perfectly safe. What if anything is that going to do to improve my ET or MPH. If I was running a 200-300 shot I could understand checking plugs. Is all this worth the trouble for just a 150 shot?
because if I pull 4* at wot for a 100 that’d bring me to 22*..... if 23* would make it happy that could be a good bit more power I’m leaving on the table. Of course I wouldn’t want to risk it if it isn’t truely safe
were u running a dedicated fuel cell with race gas with that 23* at wot on a 150 shot?
because if I pull 4* at wot for a 100 that’d bring me to 22*..... if 23* would make it happy that could be a good bit more power I’m leaving on the table. Of course I wouldn’t want to risk it if it isn’t truely safe