Guys that spray on the street...
Guys that spray on the street... *Disclaimer - street racing is bad*
I'm running a TNT 100 shot 3200-5800 wot switch etc etc...
now, how do you guy that 'race' on the street get traction? I can roll around on ET streets and I can't spray below 60mph or the tires will just roast...I can bump the 3200 activation up to 3500-3700, but thats not as fun.
What kind of street set up do you guys run? Maybe some basic suspension components like LCA, PHR might help me out and be fairly cheap...
I'm running a TNT 100 shot 3200-5800 wot switch etc etc...
now, how do you guy that 'race' on the street get traction? I can roll around on ET streets and I can't spray below 60mph or the tires will just roast...I can bump the 3200 activation up to 3500-3700, but thats not as fun.
What kind of street set up do you guys run? Maybe some basic suspension components like LCA, PHR might help me out and be fairly cheap...
Well I have my NOS setup to a switch that I hold in my hand. Once I see that I'v hook & are moving I can spray buty that usually top of my 1st gear and sometimes it will still spin alittle depending on the street.
if you have the ET Streets at more than 15 psi, your wasting time...also, remove front swaybar, get subframe connectors, HAL shocks all around, tubular rear control arms poly/rubber, rear panhard rod bar, ....
I have a 382 stroker with a 150 shot and on the M&H's I am dead hooked at 30 mph from a kick on the juice. Feels unreal, pulls new 750 sport bikes, just perfect...have to have suspension work
I have a 382 stroker with a 150 shot and on the M&H's I am dead hooked at 30 mph from a kick on the juice. Feels unreal, pulls new 750 sport bikes, just perfect...have to have suspension work
Originally Posted by SDB
if you have the ET Streets at more than 15 psi, your wasting time...also, remove front swaybar, get subframe connectors, HAL shocks all around, tubular rear control arms poly/rubber, rear panhard rod bar, ....
Originally Posted by BMN
I use a window switch with a first gear lockout. Won't spray till I hit second. I'll PM ya if your interested.
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I'm finally getting my car to some what hook on the street with my TNT set up. Basicly my converter stalls at around 3500rpm so I set the window switch to come on at 4,000rpm. I have also done, Hals, aluminium rod end LCAs & PHB, relocation brackets and a pair of 315 555Rs. The car will still spin to the 1-2 shift but it accelerates harder with the spin than it will N/A. If I don't heat the Nittos before a run I usaully can hit it until the top of first. 
No front sway bar and 255/50/16 BFG DRs.
My 150 comes on at 3400rpm through the window switch most of the time. I do not purge and I baby it off the line (let the converter carry me for the first 30-45ft) and it seems to work ok.
I get a little spin but nothing that will slow me down too much.
I find the 100-125 works best on "closed course" street tracks
My 150 comes on at 3400rpm through the window switch most of the time. I do not purge and I baby it off the line (let the converter carry me for the first 30-45ft) and it seems to work ok.
I get a little spin but nothing that will slow me down too much.
I find the 100-125 works best on "closed course" street tracks
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 909
Likes: 2
From: La.
I run anywhere from 150-175 NX shot on the street on nittos no less. Sprayin on a cold et street with too much air will usually get you wheel spin. Let some air out and do a good 5-8 sec. burnout and see what happens. BTW, my suspension is all stock and even still have the front sway bar.
BTW, my suspension is all stock and even still have the front sway bar. 
Leave the suspension stock and use a manual activation along with the window switch
If you can't hook you need more pratice, I hook 200 no problem after a burnout on concrete.
... of course remove the front sway bar it wakes up your weight transfer and KEEPS it transfered.
If you can't hook you need more pratice, I hook 200 no problem after a burnout on concrete.
... of course remove the front sway bar it wakes up your weight transfer and KEEPS it transfered.
Originally Posted by masterdill
Leave the suspension stock and use a manual activation along with the window switch
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