100 Progressive shot......is this how it can work....?
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100 Progressive shot......is this how it can work....? I don't know much about nitrous.....just the basics.
So.....You install the nitrous kit with all the proper items to spray a Progressive 100 shot ….WET shot.
If you want to spray the shot from a 40-50mph roll and the race will end when the first car reaches 160mph...…...is it as simple as arming the system, purge it, then a WOT switch starts the spray when you push the pedal to the floor...….and then the spray stops as soon as the pedal is lifted?
How can you set up how quickly or slowly the shot ramps up from 0-100 HP...….? Can you change that ramp-up time frame on the fly......or is is set and you cannot change it easily?
How long can you spray?
Does a meth kit allow you to spray longer?
Finally....of course.....how much would a 100% complete Progressive 100 HP system cost (without a meth kit)….but including a small stand alone tank for race gas to feed the shot? That's a must because there is no MAF. Including a big enough nitrous bottle to spray 5 shots at full power before degradation starts.
How much would a good shop charge to install it all? (without a meth kit, just the 100 shot kit)
How much addition would a meth kit cost?
Consider the car is a 700 AWHP 2017 Mercedes E63 AMG-S (all wheel drive)
Thanks.
So.....You install the nitrous kit with all the proper items to spray a Progressive 100 shot ….WET shot.
If you want to spray the shot from a 40-50mph roll and the race will end when the first car reaches 160mph...…...is it as simple as arming the system, purge it, then a WOT switch starts the spray when you push the pedal to the floor...….and then the spray stops as soon as the pedal is lifted?
How can you set up how quickly or slowly the shot ramps up from 0-100 HP...….? Can you change that ramp-up time frame on the fly......or is is set and you cannot change it easily?
How long can you spray?
Does a meth kit allow you to spray longer?
Finally....of course.....how much would a 100% complete Progressive 100 HP system cost (without a meth kit)….but including a small stand alone tank for race gas to feed the shot? That's a must because there is no MAF. Including a big enough nitrous bottle to spray 5 shots at full power before degradation starts.
How much would a good shop charge to install it all? (without a meth kit, just the 100 shot kit)
How much addition would a meth kit cost?
Consider the car is a 700 AWHP 2017 Mercedes E63 AMG-S (all wheel drive)
Thanks.
Meth injection is more of a turbo thing.
Ansd yes you would have a controller monitoring TPS/RPM that activates the nitrous when you tell it too (what rpm and what TPS %)
I wouldn’t even bother progressing a something as small as a 100 personally unless traction is a issue.
Ansd yes you would have a controller monitoring TPS/RPM that activates the nitrous when you tell it too (what rpm and what TPS %)
I wouldn’t even bother progressing a something as small as a 100 personally unless traction is a issue.
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Meth injection is more of a turbo thing.
Ansd yes you would have a controller monitoring TPS/RPM that activates the nitrous when you tell it too (what rpm and what TPS %)
I wouldn’t even bother progressing a something as small as a 100 personally unless traction is a issue.
Ansd yes you would have a controller monitoring TPS/RPM that activates the nitrous when you tell it too (what rpm and what TPS %)
I wouldn’t even bother progressing a something as small as a 100 personally unless traction is a issue.
What wet shot is a good kit? I'll need to hide it 100% and not alter any factory equipment/parts. Stand alone tank with race gas is needed too.
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Especially with AWD, if you have a decent tire, you would not need to ramp the spray in. Check out Nitrous Outlet or Nitrous Express. Both of those sell quality kits and can set you up with a full system. As far as cost, it really depends on how far you want to take it. Most shops charge $100/hr for work. Maybe contact a few shops before purchasing a kit on your own to see what they recommend. Some shops will not install parts that they did not order.
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Especially with AWD, if you have a decent tire, you would not need to ramp the spray in. Check out Nitrous Outlet or Nitrous Express. Both of those sell quality kits and can set you up with a full system. As far as cost, it really depends on how far you want to take it. Most shops charge $100/hr for work. Maybe contact a few shops before purchasing a kit on your own to see what they recommend. Some shops will not install parts that they did not order.
Is there a safety mechanism that can shut down the engine instantly if a fatal type of problem is detected? Something that works 100%......?
There are controllers you can buy that will shut it off on a lean condition. It’s a back up plan... nothing is a 100% failsafe though.
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So I guess the worst scenario is the race gas for the wet shot stops spraying but the nitrous continues spraying......is that the bad failure?
Can two race gas nozzles be used to feed the wet shot? If one fails during during a run the other nozzle at least keeps it from running too lean too fast and gives the safety time to shut the nitrous down?
Can two race gas nozzles be used to feed the wet shot? If one fails during during a run the other nozzle at least keeps it from running too lean too fast and gives the safety time to shut the nitrous down?
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I don't know why its not done more often, but you can put a fuel pressure switch (hobbs switch) in the fuel line AFTER the solenoid. When the kit turns on you use the switch to turn on an LED to verify that fuel is flowing. Hiding a race gas fuel cell isn't going to be trivial and you'll need a pump and stuff besides just the fuel solenoid. Going with something like a ZEX kit is usually the easiest integrated setup I've seen. Combine that with the fuel pressure switch and you've got a pretty good failsafe but you have to obviously be aware of the LED. I would vote going the ZEX route and forget the standalone fuel cell.
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I don't know why its not done more often, but you can put a fuel pressure switch (hobbs switch) in the fuel line AFTER the solenoid. When the kit turns on you use the switch to turn on an LED to verify that fuel is flowing. Hiding a race gas fuel cell isn't going to be trivial and you'll need a pump and stuff besides just the fuel solenoid. Going with something like a ZEX kit is usually the easiest integrated setup I've seen. Combine that with the fuel pressure switch and you've got a pretty good failsafe but you have to obviously be aware of the LED. I would vote going the ZEX route and forget the standalone fuel cell.
You can run more timing with race gas, but like I said, storing a fuel cell under the hood of a 'cedes and hiding it isn't exactly easy. Yes the alternative is to feel it from the factory fuel rail which is common on smaller shots like a 100.
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You really need some way to monitor knock and timing and stuff. Typically you pull 2 degrees for every 50 shot as a rule of thumb, but you also typically run a colder plug with spray. Just throwing nitrous on the car can hurt it if its not setup to do it.
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93 octane is fine for a 100 shot. Just keep it conservative. You can throw some octane booster in the tank when you know you're going to spray. You can also tune it a little rich on the engine tune and use a smaller fuel jet. If the fuel solenoid doesn't fire it may be enough to save the engine.
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Like ddnspider said, you can run a fuel pressure safety switch that will stop the nitrous from flowing if your fuel pressure drops. AEM sells a gauge that's called a "Failsafe Gauge". It's an AFR gauge has a trigger that basically does the same thing based off your AFR. Plenty of things out there that can help save your engine, just depends on how involved you want to get with it.
93 octane is fine for a 100 shot. Just keep it conservative. You can throw some octane booster in the tank when you know you're going to spray. You can also tune it a little rich on the engine tune and use a smaller fuel jet. If the fuel solenoid doesn't fire it may be enough to save the engine.
93 octane is fine for a 100 shot. Just keep it conservative. You can throw some octane booster in the tank when you know you're going to spray. You can also tune it a little rich on the engine tune and use a smaller fuel jet. If the fuel solenoid doesn't fire it may be enough to save the engine.
The nitrous system will have to be completely removable. With no trace it was there. They said many of their customers do that.....
Last edited by stilealive; Jul 17, 2020 at 10:38 PM.