heres the deal. right now i have stock internal 00 z28 with the following bolt ons asp pullies, ported t/b, ls6 intake, coated headers, spintech exhaust, SSRA, stealth lid, and a spec III clutch. that should cover almost everything for a full bolt on car. right now i'm doing a tsp 231/237 grind with a 112 LS harland sharp rockers (1.7 ratio) hardend pushrods (7.4) and PP dual springs. from what i gatherd this cam loves the spray. i dont want to get too crazy with the juice. probably a 150 shot MAX. but i keep floping back and forth for a wet or dry. if i upgrade my injectors to #28 that should handle my new cam setup with a 150 dry shot right? basicly i want to keep it safe and from the looks of it a dry is the safest and the most reasonable. should i upgrade anything else fuel wise other than injectors and will #28 be good enough?
also is there any other safty device i should look into other than a WOT switch, window switch or did i nail it on the head?

 

I have heads and cam with a wet system (150 shot). I like the wet because it only adds the gas when you spray it. If you put bigger injectors in then the car will be running fat all the time on the motor. just my opion.

 

you can do eithe just fine. You will need a fuel pump either way. If you go dry you will need bigger injectors thatn 28s. Id go with 36lb. Then you will need to have your computer tuned for those injectors. It will not run rich on motor if it is tuned correctly. I use 42lb injectors and run fine on motor.

If you go wet...you just need the wet kit and fuel pump.

I would use a window switch as well.

 

36 lb is kinda big isnt it? i figured 30 lb would be best so it would atomize the fuel better and wheni hit the juice it wont overdo the injector

 

No matter what you do Ron you will lose! Jay is going to buy the N20 from Dave. Buy the way I will see you in the 10's next year because I rule

 

nebraksa is gonna have alot of 10sec cars next year. jays not going to beat me i'll make sure of it

 

In my opinion, wet is the only way to go. The reason dry kits came out was to make the kits cheaper. To make power without blowing things up, you need consistency above all, and a dry setup relies on more factors, so the fuel enrichment wont be as consistent.

What makes people think a wet kit is dangerous? The fact that it hits harder? Something to keep in mind is the reason a dry kit hits soft is because the AF ratio isnt right (during the time that its soft). That's dangerous too.

My vote is for a wet kit and soem type of O2 monitoring to cut off the nitrous if it goes lean. One example of that is the NX maximizer, but it's a little expensive if thats all you use it for.

Steve

 

my only problem with the wet kit is if the fuel noid fails your motor goes boom. but if theirs a safty cut off or something that should be fine. another thing is puddling i dont want any of that going on either. i just havnt really found out what causes the puddling. does anyone know?

 

I'd vote for the wet system also. Agree you will need to upgrade your fuel pump. 30# SVO (which is our 36#) would be fine for your set up. Window switch is almost a must if your a stick and going with 150 shot. The TNT will give a true 150 hp increase on a 150 shot -- the dry set up "usually" does not.

Another item I would strongly suggest is a tuner of some type - I have the LS1 Edit only because that is the only tuner out at the time. This way you can tune the car when ever you want. One program for engine only, one for each shot you want (I have 2 program for engine only, and 1 each for 100, 150, 200 and 250).

To get into the 10's and be consistent you'll need a good suspension set up.

Good luck

David

 

The puddling is caused by too much liquid fuel in the manifold, which has tight bends because GM never intended liquid fuel in there.

One solution is to use a fogger or direct port kit. A fogger is a direct port kit, but instead of piggy backing the stock injectors, you plumb nozzles into the manifold at each runner.

 

for wet kit's i've been looking at the nos nozzle kit or the tnt kit with that power ring setup. i just might end up doing one of those unless i find a good deal in the class section for a nx kit (when i have the money)