BADaSS69

Hey guys, What is the difference in between a wet and a dry shot? Which one is the safer and which one gives you the most power? Any advice would be great..

BMN

At the very top of the list, look for the sticky that says frequently asked questions. It will have ALL the answers for u.

redbandit98

iTrader: (13)

countdown to jrp,,,5..4...3...2...

PREDATOR-Z

Dry 5177 is the most cost effective and complete set on the maket. A window switch is all you need extra.
IMO dry is safer, as the intake was never designed to accept fuel.

KillaCoupe

dry shot is nitrous spraying only....wet shot is just that...nitrous and fuel spraying at the same time

1QWIKZ

iTrader: (6)

just like women..wet is better than dry.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

and i trust the stock maff more than a fuel solenoid.

PREDATOR-Z

Amen to that!!!

1QWIKZ

iTrader: (6)

but i trust the stock injectors less.

Slow TA

ooooooohhhhhhh and i'll amen to that. Go NX never had any problems.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

42lbs'er. Problem solved. You would have to get injectors anyway later down the road if you were to do heads and cam so just get it out the way.

PREDATOR-Z

I'll be running 200 shot dry on 30' SVO, 224/220 cam only + bolt ons. I tried is once and I was at 91% duty cycle/

99Z28Guy

So basically if you run anything over a "standard" 125 dry shot, injectors (and probably a fuel pump) are going to be needing upgrading? But stock injectors & fuel pump should be alright for a 125 or smaller shot? What duty cycle are the stock injectors at, does anyone know?

1QWIKZ

iTrader: (6)

if i were you, i would just get a TNT F2 kit or an NX kit. once you start messing with the injectors/MAF, you will need tuning. slap that wet kit on and be done with it. also, wet kits give you more Tq and dry kits have yet to match wet kit on 1/4 mile times. one thing to think about also on dry kits, you have to becareful not to "freeze" the MAF sensor.

PREDATOR-Z

.
If by this you are trying to say that wet kits do not need tuning, save some money for your new motor if you're spraying
Yeah right!!! I match them and beat them. It all depends how much you shoot. You have to shoot a little more with dry, that is all. Wet are harder hitting on activation,that is all.

Fat chance unless you shoot right at the mouth of the MAF, which is stupid to do anyway.

My advice is you shouldn't post about things you obviously know nothing about.

1QWIKZ

iTrader: (6)

dude i have used 3 different types of kit, how many have you used in the last year? i have yet to see people put a 150 shot wet kit and had tuning problems. and as stupid as it may seem, many people do point the nossle right at the MAF. what size of dry shot are you running to get 11.3s? its known that the more fuel introduced into the nitrous mixture, the more Tq you will get. why do you think TNT recommends that you upgrade you fuel system to maximize your power(and keep it safe). dont wet kits introduce more fuel into the mixture? if you wanna start flaming go ahead, but know that i have gone faster than you WITH A 150 WET SHOT WITOUT HEADS,HEADERS OR TUNING.

1QWIKZ

iTrader: (6)

by the way,you admitted it yourself that wet puts down more power.
"wet are harder hitting in activation" HMMMMM, i wonder if more torque has anything to do with that??/

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

I disagree wet puts down more power. And as far as wet having more Tq because you can add more fuel...you can do just the same with dry...run it rich. The ONLY difference between the two kits is the fuel does not flow in the intake plenum and runners. The rest to me is all a misnomer brought on by the 5177 being so over rated as far as hp/jet size goes. Also TNT being so underrated as well.

I spray a 300 dry. I have also had it setup with a 150 dry/150 wet. The "150" rating of each kit was not the manufacturers rating...but what it took to jet each stage till I gained 150 rwhp. The nitrous jet sizes between each kit were comparable in the end...and each hit just as hard as the other. The only advantage a wet has over a "spray the MAF dry" is if you use a direct port IMO. The nitrous is denser as it goes into the cylinder so you may be able to pack more in...but thats only for large shots.

One fact to consider....more SERIOUS racers are going dry with systems like Accel Gen 7 DFI and FAST. They are using multi stage dry with huge injectors. They have more control this way.

To me...what is better for an LS1 depends on what HP level you want to target...and what the cost will be to get there. And its not a simple answer eaither because of so many possible combos we can use. Want 550 rwhp with a heads and cam car...a fuel pump and wet kit is probably the easiest route. Want 675 rwhp....on a heads and cam car....believe it or not...I say a dry kit would be the way to go with new injectors, pump and tuning. I will spray a 250 shot dry no problem. I would think twice about 250 wet unless its direct port. If you are talking more than 650 I think stages begin to look attractive...or direct port...that opens up a whole slew of options....including wet/dry stages. There are many wasy to skin this cat...use your imagination...and dont limit yourself by wives tales and misnomers.

Thats my .02c

1QWIKZ

iTrader: (6)

very well put. i currenty have a TNT F4/5 Pro Dry DP kit. its adjustable from 300-600, but like you said, i need a DFI or FAST to make it work. so i am selling that kit for a wet version maily because its a cheaper route for me. also, most SERIOUS racers are using a carb set with a wet DP set up(mainly NOS brand), but thats another story. thank you for you input on this subject, but i mainly got offend by PredZ stating that i didnt have a clue about nitrous.

jaywoo

Don't fell bad 1QwikZ, I must be stupid also since I also spray a wet shot. On the other hand, I'm running faster then 11.38 @118 in the 1/4.