buying a kit is "easy" way to do it. So you think that's the best or safest way, when it actuality it's the most generic way and designed to also make the best profits for the companies selling kits.

I agree the parts should be between $200 and $400.
I've never paid more than that to put nitrous on any of my cars.

 

I agree with you white 2001s10. I have relays but thats about it. Nitrous kits shouldnt be more than 600 dollars for everything.

 

i got mine for a real good deal .
nos nozzle direct port
15lb bottle
nx remote opener
heater/ pressure regulator
window switch

all for around $1000 total

 

I paid $350 for my kit but I used good ol ebay! Also its not cheap to fill 10lbs of nos...so in the long run i will spend about that much

 

1600 here

 

I paid alot for all my stuff and I don't have any safety stuff. LOL

My car is a race car so the safety stuff henders me. I have about 1500 in my dual stage Maf kit.

No heater,window switch, or opener.

 

The bottom line is this...YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR...YOU DONT PAY FOR IT AND YOUR DEFINATELY GONNA GET IT...I dont know how anybody can put a price on safety. Say your me and spent 7000 dollars for your car (20 yrs old) and you make hardly enough money to pay for bolt ons and such. Ok now you half *** it and go fast for maybe 3 or 4 bottles maybe more if your really lucky. Now your on bottle 6 you lean out and blow your motor because you bounced off the rev-limiter because you have no window switch...or you had crap in your nitrous lines because you didn't buy a purge kit...or you have no bottle pressure and loose the race and or something bad happens and you lean out again... BANG... now you have to make your payments and have no car and no money to rebuild...What would you do???

 

Well I can say that I was one of those $300 nitrous system guys but I did have a bottle warmer. I'm not a fan of window switches though.

That old nitrous system is no longer in service. The next system will be a direct port with a purge, dual bottles with remote openers and heaters, a stand alone fuel system, a progressive controller and almost all the bells and whistles. I figure this one is gunna cost in the higher $2,xxx range after its all said and done and thats doing all installation myself.

Josh S.

 

I just read all the posts and all i gotta say is if your one of the do it for $300.00 guys then i feel bad for you. There are reasons why these other parts are made, there not for looks or just to waste the money.

Purges: Clean out the lines to ensure a good shot of nitrous everytime
Means: More consistant and reliable power
Bottle Heater: Pressurizes the nitrous bottle. In case you dont know, nitrous kits dont come with pumps, it is forced into the intake through bottle pressure, the heater creates a nice consistant pressure and you nitrous works better. Also if your not using one, when you get low on nitrous you wont see those big gains anymore.
Means: More consistant and reliable power, nitrous also lasts a bit longer
Window Switch: Well im a bigger fan of the timing tuner which costs a bit more. But it is a bit more safe and will allow you to do a wet 150-shot and not have to worry about it. The timing tuner engages the nitrous at WOT and a certain RPM and it disengages it at a certain RPM, but if your running a 150 shot on stock motor, it also allows you to pull a few degrees of timing when the nitrous is on, and then puts it back when the nitrous is off. Lets you keep your N/A power and get the nitro power, safely.
Means: Again, reliable, safe, and allows for using more nitrous, bigger shot
Bottle Opener: Well this isnt as much of a must, unless your a street racer. Dont want the fuzz to see your bottle mounted between the seats. And again if you dont know, your not supposed to mount the bottle sideways in a car. Its supposed to go the same direction your travel. Keeps the nitrous from tumbling at throttle in the tank and not coming out as easily. So the spare tire spot is a good mounting spot and then you need a bottle opener if you run into a good race.
Means: Pretty much a must for street racing, where you never know who you'll run into.

All these thinga cost you a bit more than 300.00. Off the top of my head the price for new ones are roughly 1300-1500 bucks. And there are still maybe a few more things you may want. And if your going for big power(ie direct port)you will be looking at a good amount more. And remember there is also the changing of spark plugs, some other little crap, and filling your bottle, usually about 40-50 bucks for a fill. Some of the above stuff will make that nitrous last a bit longer and save you a bit on buying the nitrous as much. This is just some of what ive learned from racing with me and my friends, which by the way all have nitrous, and one of them tunes F-Bodies and Vettes here in California, he knows what you should be getting, and we've talked about this several times.

 

I would rather pay for the little extras now than pay for a new motor later. Do it right the first time.

 

Do you even have nitrous on your car?
It's not in your sig.

 

Nope not as of right now. Its getting some stuff fixed on it right now. But if you would have read the whole thing you would know that all my friends have nitrous and a good friend of mine tunes cars at his shop here in northern california. So I have a pretty good amount of knowledge about nitrous. I will also be getting me a nitrous kit once my tranny issues are resolved(needs rebuilt). My car is getting a TNT wet kit, 150 shot, timing tuner, purges, bottle heater, but ill be skipping the remote opener, gonna try soething different instead.
But go ahead and say, oh he doesnt even have nitrous he has no clue what hes talking about, because i see it coming. But like i said in the post above, a real reliable, safe, and more powerful kit does cost a good amount more than 300 bucks.

 

well thank you for admitting that.

 

I'm at $1800 for DP system including the in tank sump and fuel pump.

 

1) How is a "kit" with many more parts and connections designed to do what you finger and the button were more reliable and safe?

2) Purging lol.... I purge right into my intake during the burnout. That works a hell of a lot better than spraying nitrous out of your hood and clears the lines a hell of a lot better than the purge valve ever will.

3) What happens when you lose traction at the 100' mark and you need to get out of the bottle. With the WOT switch included in most "kits" you have to get out of the gas too and we all know that that is a dangerous proposition when the *** end is kicked out. It could easily cause a crash, whereas with a hand button you can just let off the button while still staying in the gas. The shock is less and you are less likely to lose control.

These "kits" are the worst thing to happen to Nitrous ever. They chock them full of superfluous crap that allows them to jack up the prices.

 

The mark ups are a little high but you can still find a good kit used for a really good price, just make sure you test it before use and if still unsure get the solenoids rebuilt and you are ready to go.

 

cme on gyz i mean i have a honda civic 93 w/ the big engine 1.5l 102hp/98lb trqu and i spended 110$ on everythin for NOZ! **** my car goez so fast! ima goin to track i'll post #'s gonna school u f-bods

 

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