Odd Nitrous Question, Nitrogen push....
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From: F' Reno I live in Sparks
Odd Nitrous Question, Nitrogen push.... Got an odd one for you, what is the minimum nitrous pressure that is required for running a nitrous system, if you were to run a nitrous system at 850psi bottle pressure and change fuel jetting for the specific nitrous pressure would there be a problem? The reason I ask is, I got a nitrogen tank and reg (850 delivery max.) for free and wanted to hook up a delivery system, the only problem i could see is if my bottle pressure rises above 850, but I was thinking if i i could team the nitrogen push with the bottle heater to achieve my desired 950 psi. any thoughts or comments?
You can jet for 850 psi and be fine. As far as "team" the nitrogen and bottle heater to achieve 950 I dont think I would do that... Lets face it some of the advantages of a push system is the elimination of the heater and the ability to keep a constant pressure even if you just made a 1/4 mile pass. The bottle keeps constant pressure during and after (no bottle cool down pressure loss).
Granted you would know that your bottle would be between 850-950 and you could jet for the 950.
Hey the price is right so you cant go wrong, but you will miss out on "all" the benifits of jetting perfectly for a constant pressure.
Granted you would know that your bottle would be between 850-950 and you could jet for the 950.
Hey the price is right so you cant go wrong, but you will miss out on "all" the benifits of jetting perfectly for a constant pressure.
Exactly what flipper said. Retuning all your jets for 850 psi bottle pressure will also conserve nitrogen. The only problem I see is that on a hot day with a freshly filled bottle you will likely be above 850 psi.
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From: F' Reno I live in Sparks
Hey 383LQ4SS, why did you use a biondo racing co2 solenoid for your setup vs a typical nitrous solenoid? Pressure rating?? also what pressure switch do you use and do you trigger a relay with the pressure switch or just the solenoid?
I did some archive digging today 
and found that he's now using a Dedenbear CO2 solenoid (not the Biondo any more), and he's using the adjustable pressure switch from http://www.speedshop.org (under Sensors & Bungs, the pressure switch for bottle heaters - it's adjustable from 550 to 1150). Doesn't look too bad to set up.
After killing my battery on the dyno this weekend waiting for my nitrous pressure to rise, and barely having 900 psi at the track this weekend, I'm looking to fix that problem permanently.
and found that he's now using a Dedenbear CO2 solenoid (not the Biondo any more), and he's using the adjustable pressure switch from http://www.speedshop.org (under Sensors & Bungs, the pressure switch for bottle heaters - it's adjustable from 550 to 1150). Doesn't look too bad to set up.After killing my battery on the dyno this weekend waiting for my nitrous pressure to rise, and barely having 900 psi at the track this weekend, I'm looking to fix that problem permanently.
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Originally Posted by Camaroholic
After killing my battery on the dyno this weekend waiting for my nitrous pressure to rise, and barely having 900 psi at the track this weekend, I'm looking to fix that problem permanently.
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Originally Posted by Camaroholic
I did some archive digging today and found that he's now using a Dedenbear CO2 solenoid (not the Biondo any more), and he's using the adjustable pressure switch from http://www.speedshop.org (under Sensors & Bungs, the pressure switch for bottle heaters - it's adjustable from 550 to 1150). Doesn't look too bad to set up.
After killing my battery on the dyno this weekend waiting for my nitrous pressure to rise, and barely having 900 psi at the track this weekend, I'm looking to fix that problem permanently.
and found that he's now using a Dedenbear CO2 solenoid (not the Biondo any more), and he's using the adjustable pressure switch from http://www.speedshop.org (under Sensors & Bungs, the pressure switch for bottle heaters - it's adjustable from 550 to 1150). Doesn't look too bad to set up.After killing my battery on the dyno this weekend waiting for my nitrous pressure to rise, and barely having 900 psi at the track this weekend, I'm looking to fix that problem permanently.
Thanks
I absolutely love the push. I dont know how I lived without it. It adds more to preperation....but when all your bottles are full and everything is working right.....no worries.
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Originally Posted by Blue99Ws7
What the heck are you guys talking bout? I'm lost. Need more info please. Sorry I must of woke up on the wrong side of the bed this morning. Someone fill me in.
). The nitrogen and nitrous do not mix (gas vs liquid), and since air is 78% nitrogen, it won't hurt your motor if it accidentally gets in there (but the fuel may cause you to bog ). Hence, it's called a "nitrogen push" system... Thread Starter
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From: F' Reno I live in Sparks
is it possible to use compressed air instead of nitrogen? I went too my paintball store to get my tank filled, and guess what my reg on the cylinder is set to....950 psi exactly. so if you could use compressed air, dont see why not its just nitrogen (78.09%) and oxygen (20.95%). The remaining 1% is made up of argon (0.93%), carbon dioxide (0.03%) and other trace gases (0.003%). What I figure i would do is drain my tank, and get a blow down tube at the same time. Put a check valve, and a 4an fitting on the tanks spare port, and run the paintball tank to the check valves 4 an fitting with an extra 18" 4an line I have. Or i guess i could go get my monster nitrogen tank refilled and fill my own paintball tank. after all the paintball shop wants 3 dollars a fill, and i can fill my monsterous nitrogen tank for $17 and all i would need is 2 or 3 fittings.
