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Missing sparkplug tip?

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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 06:06 PM
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Default Missing sparkplug tip?

My car was misfiring in the upper RPM's under full throttle N/A so I decided to pull the plugs out. I found the #7 plug with the tip broke off/missing . What would cause this? Should I be worried about the missing tip floating around in my heads?
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 06:27 PM
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MAybe it was broken when you put it in but it seems like you know what you are doing so i don't think so. The ones that were in my car when i got it, a few of em were missing a disclike think on the tip of the top. That really affected all of the gaps. I would just change it and see how things go, chances are its already through the heads.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 08:47 PM
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did it look melted? Most likely it was severe detonation. You were close to total carnage. Btter either reduce the shot size or add some higher octnae fuel/reduce timing. Also be sure your fuel system is up to par and that is not the problem either.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 09:49 PM
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I would definitely put that thing on a wideband.

It sounds like you blew it off to me also.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 07:27 PM
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I thought it also was from detonation, but I never noticed anything out of the ordinary while spraying. My setup consists of an F1 kit jetted @150, stock injectors, GSS340 intank pump, Hotwire kit and TR6's gapped @ .035. All this is on 93 pump gas and 26 degrees of timing

Since i have a wet kit i shouldn't need bigger injectors so i take it that i should run racegas or drop my total timing down? or maybe it's time for a direct port setup since i've read about the back cylinders not being reached using a nozzle kit.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 07:33 PM
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I think either reduce timing a bit or run a little race gas. Maybe even a bit of both.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 08:22 PM
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Did you just burn the ground strap off or did you crack the insulator and or hurt the electrode? Was the insulator all speckled? I would get the car on the wideband first. Seeing as it was number 7 you probrably have a lean condtion in 7 & 8 due to fuel distribution. With the stock TNT 150 jetting, my car had always run alittle on the lean side and would occationally burn acouple of ground straps. I stepped up the fuel alittle and things became fine. I would pull alittle more timing too, don't forget that the TNT 150 shot is like a 175+ at the crank. The most timing I can get away with on the 150 shot with 94 octane is about 24* before I start to see some KR. I usually shoot for an 11.5 A/F ratio. The car was at about 12.2-12.5 across the board when it would start to melt the ground straps.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 08:30 PM
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about half of the ground strap was melted off and a small chunk of the insulator was broke off, but the electrode was still completely intact. There was no speckling that i could see.

Would it be better to reduce timing/add more octane or to up the fuel jetting on the kit?
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 08:50 PM
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Do your have anyway of looking at KR or are you tuning with no knock sensors? Any time I have gotten a good amount of detonation there would be small specs of what I assume is from the pistons on the insulators. Seeing that it's number 7 and the insulator is still clean I would guess it's more of a fuel problem. I would really spend the money to get to a wideband or even buy one (best tool I ever bought). I supose you could pick up a pair of 26 & 27 fuel jets and just kind of do some trial and error tuning.

BTW: TNT doesn't sell .026 & .027 fuel jets so I use NX fuel jets instead.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 09:57 PM
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I'd say you might want back the timing off to about 22 degrees and you should be good.
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 11:28 AM
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I say pull the TR6's out and throw them as far as your arms can throw them. Use a non-projected tip spark plug a few heat ranges cooler then stock...Like a Ngk 7 or 8 and also go up a pill size or 2 on the fuel side. Just my thoughts.
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