super stealth nitrous kit?
umm thats what i was always told for one and i just see it as the fuel is there for it but then again the maf puts more fuel in for a dry shot
well i guess room the upgrade never really seem anyone over a 150 shot on a dry kit
well i guess room the upgrade never really seem anyone over a 150 shot on a dry kit
Originally Posted by Shinsetsu
umm thats what i was always told for one and i just see it as the fuel is there for it but then again the maf puts more fuel in for a dry shot
well i guess room the upgrade never really seem anyone over a 150 shot on a dry kit
well i guess room the upgrade never really seem anyone over a 150 shot on a dry kit
Oh yea, how could I forget myself, I will be running a 200 shot (although it's on an 03 cobra 
).But yes, I see your point. If you run over a 150 dry shot, you should SERIOUSLY consider injectors, and for both, might consider a fuel pump to be safe
I just dont understand the whole "wet is safer" idea, especially on the daily driver thing. A dry kit in my opinion is better overall for a dd, because there is no fuel noids holding back 58psi the whole time the ign is on. Adding a fuel solenoid into the mix means there is the chance of a)noid not opening and a lean motor "kaboom" or b)noid sticking open and kaboom in the intake. Explain to me how more pieces, fittings, solenoids, lines, etc is a better thing. I look at it as-the more complicated it is, the more things that can go wrong. With a dry shot, yes you are relying on the computer to add fuel, but guess what, you rely on that same maf every tiime you start the car- n2o or not. I am by no means talking down the wet setups but am trying to get everyone to stop the myths about dry systems. For a good example of a quick car with a dry kit, check out koolrayz. His ride is an awesome example.
I run the 150 shot dry and all I have is a walbro 340 from speed inc that acctivates when i arm my nitrous it works great and when ever i want to i can spray a 300 shot but i will save that for my 6.0 . 
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 702
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland, Fl
If you have a good tuner then anything 150 and under dry should not be a problem for the maf to handle. For the price of a upgraded fuel pump and bigger injectors that is just safety for your motor. When you go cheap you just break sooner.
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Originally Posted by 5.8litrels1eater
It is being sprayed right where you see that little shiny copper looking thing in the pic. above.
In the following pic, you can see where the noid-jet feed line goes to...
And in the following pic. you can see that the noids and feed line are BELOW the filter, BELOW the entire box, so if you take the lid off, and filter out, you still won't see a thing....
Last edited by freakynipples69; Jan 24, 2005 at 03:19 PM.
I think alot of people see wet kits safer because they think you dont have to worry about the PCM screwing up or the MAF screwing up! Either way your gonna have a n20 noid and IF one sticks open which is kind of rare your bascilly screwed. If a fuel noid sticks open you should be ok! N20 wet or dry has its risk and I think alot of people try to justify one being safer than the other to take the worry off their mind! If its gonna happen to you it will! My setup has everything you could think of all the safety devices and accessories and Im spraying 100 wet shot! The 2nd time I sprayed I basiclly crippled my motor to the point of it dying two weeks later with the help of a shady tune. My buddy who sprays 120 dry and 100 wet with nothing but bottle,solenoids,lines,and 2 pushbuttons,no safety on the same motor same miles as mine and he goes through a bottle a weeks and hasnt had any problems! **** happens and it can easily with n20!
uhh..know whats where..? 
Hi all, im new here but i am a known member on ls1.com, ls2.com, dfwls1.com
I used to be Formulated but now Im Dirty 30 on those. I had a 95 Formula Automatic about a year ago, I bought a sneeky pete system and used a 10# bottle instead, it was a very cheap ghetto set up but I dynoed 325 RWHP with the kit, and 250 RWHP N/A. I think I had all my posts about it on LS1.com
I used to be Formulated but now Im Dirty 30 on those. I had a 95 Formula Automatic about a year ago, I bought a sneeky pete system and used a 10# bottle instead, it was a very cheap ghetto set up but I dynoed 325 RWHP with the kit, and 250 RWHP N/A. I think I had all my posts about it on LS1.com
Originally Posted by LS1shark
Thank you (5.8litrels1eater) for the pics. But if you don't mind can you help me please. Today I have finished hidden my nos 5177 kit but there are two things I don’t know how to hide it (fuel pressure switch part #15685nos & microswitch part#15640nos) I hope if you have support pics.
(fuel pressure switch part #15685nos)
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin.../15685NOS.html
THANKS alot
(fuel pressure switch part #15685nos)
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin.../15685NOS.html
THANKS alot
Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Here is our cheater system...This is a wet system..
Here is a pic of Jamnuts Halo install.This is our Dry Halo System.
Also here is a link that Ryan put up on our Halo kit.Watch his Video.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=Halo+Nitrous
Dave
Here is a pic of Jamnuts Halo install.This is our Dry Halo System.
Also here is a link that Ryan put up on our Halo kit.Watch his Video.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=Halo+Nitrous
Dave
Dave can you give some more info on the cheater system? How much of a shot can I run and what would the cost be?
I watched the vid on the halo kit and it looks cool. If I go with a dry shot I might just have to get that kit