Nitrous Systems Review!!!
01-17-2005, 11:19 AM
#1
Nitrous Systems Review!!! Picking a nitrous system for your fuel injected LS1/LT1 can get confusing.So to help out we have typed a small selection of the most common systems on the market with a description on how they work.I hope this helps.
NITROUS EXPRESS
First.
The single nozzle kit.This kit is the most common system on the market.It comes with the jetting to recieve 35 to 150 HP.With the purchase of extra jets this system can put out 250HP.
Second,
The maff system,
This system is one of the most liked system on the market.It is capable up upgrading to a dual stage and putting out 250Hp on each side of the plate.This system works buy replacing your stock mass air ends.There is a spray bar built into these ends that work just like the shark nozzle.The maff system comes with a electronic TPS switch intead of a machanical microswitch that comes in other systems.This system is liked for its clean install.
Third,
The dual nozzle System.This system uses dual shark nozzles.It comes with horse power settings from 100 to 250 hp.
Fourth,
The dual stage system.This system was desighned for the racer that is spraying a a larger shot and is traction limited.This system is basically two single nozle systems in one.It comes with the jetting to spray 35 to 150 hp on each stage.With the purchase of extra jets it will can produce up to 250 hp on each stage.There are sevral of ways to set up this system.First,You can run the first stage off of the micro switch and the second stage off of a button.Second,You could run both systems off of a micro switch and two different toggle switches.The most common way for the track guys is with a digiset.This is a time delay.The way it works is you wire it in so that after the first stage is activated the second stage will automatically come on after the dealyed time you have programed in.
Fifth,
Another common way of running larger Hp shots with out traction loss is using a nitrous controller.The Maximizer is the most advanced controller on the market.This unit uses a Palm PDA to upload and display the Maximizer information. This is the ONLY unit on the market to date with a built in RPM activated window switch with a gear counting feature, and the first to have a TPS voltage sensing switch to activate and de-activate the system. The Maximizer also has a delay and ramp feature. This unit will ramp up or down for turbo cars, and you can also change the ramp parameters for each gear. Finally, the unit hooks up to your O2’s to read the air/fuel ratio and allows you to cut the nitrous off at any given ratio. You can use this system in juction with any single stage system such as a directport,single nozzle, or maff system.
Sixth,
The Direct port,
This system is common for the racer spraying larger HP levels.A direct port kit injects nitrous and fuel into individual runners.You can individualy tune each cylinder. You can spray larger amounts of nitrous and fuel into the engine more precisly.I do not recommend this system for the common guy sraying under 200 hp.This system normally requires tunning.There are several Direct ports system offered of different styles.We even offer custom show quality direct ports for the guys looking for a little extra style.
TEXAS NITROUS TECHNOLOGIES
First.
The Power Ring System F1.
This system has power gains power adjustable from 75-150 rear wheel horsepower.
This kit comes complete with Power Ring,Two Stainless Nozzles,Stainless N20 & Fuel Solenoids,Solenoid Brackets and screws, Jets, Stainless Braided Hoses, N20 Pressure Gauge, Bottle Nut, 17Ft Main Feed Line,Stainless Bottle Brackets, Micro Switch and Bracket, NHRA Blow Off Valve,And 10Lb Powder Coated Nitrous Bottle.
Second,
The power Ring System F2
This system has power gains adjustable from 100 to 350 HP.
This kit comes complete with Power Ring,Two Stainless Nozzles,Stainless N20 & Fuel Solenoids,Solenoid Brackets and screws, Jets, Stainless Braided Hoses, Nitrous Filter, N20 Pressure Gauge, Bottle Nut, 17Ft Main Feed Line,Stainless Bottle Brackets, Micro Switch and Bracket, NHRA Blow Off Valve,And 10Lb Powder Coated Nitrous Bottle.
Third,
The direct port F4,
This system is adjustable 300-600 Hp.This system is common for the racer spraying larger HP levels.A direct port kit injects nitrous and fuel into individual runners.You can individualy tune each cylinder. You can spray larger amounts of nitrous and fuel into the engine more precisly.
ZEX
Zex Offers one System for the LS1.This system comes adjustable 75 to 125 hp.The system will produce up to 200 hp with the purchase of extra needed jets.
Zex also offers a Dry system for the LT1.It works buy adding the extra needed fuel thru the fuel injectors.All major components are contained in the ZEX™ 'NMU', which means you won't have any unsightly solenoids or wiring.This system uses actual bottle pressure to regulate the nitrous to fuel ratio.This system has a built in TPs switch . The Zex Dry Kits will only work with vehicles with a port fuel injected engine with a return style fuel system.
NITROUS OUTLET SYSTEMS
This is our Inhouse Brand.All components in these systems are purchased from Nitrous Express.We offer several systems at this time.
First
Stage 1 Wet system
This system is adjustable from 35 to 150 Hp.With the purchase of extra jets this system can flow up to 250 Hp.
Second,
Dry Halo System,
This system was built to compete with other dry systems on the market.Instead of having nozzles twisting around in you air lid this spray ring sits under the air lid.Makes for a great hidden system.This system injects nitrous directly into the air intake and use the factory EFI system to provide the extra fuel necessary This system is also rated at the rear wheels.It comes adjustable 40,60,80 RWP. You can spray more with the extra needed Jets.
Third,
The universal Dry system.
This system is a dual nozzle dry system.Each nozzle plumbs into the side of the air lid or air box if it is a truck.This system injects nitrous directly into the air intake and use the factory EFI system to provide the extra fuel necessary This system is not realeased but will by the end of January.
NITROUS OXIDE SYSTEMS
Nos offers a dry system.This system injects nitrous directly into the air intake and use the factory EFI system to provide the extra fuel necessary
The system comes with jets for 3 different levels of horsepower: 75, 85, and 100. (125 Horsepower Jets are also available separately.) These are rated at the Flywheel.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WET AND DRY
This is the most common asked question in this industry.This is a small explanation.
DRY Nitrous Systems.
A dry system adds the fuel and nitrous seperatly.On a LS1 based Vehicle here is how it works.You have a nozzle that sprays nitrous only.This nozzle sprays before the mass air meter.The mass air meter sinces the change and tells the ECM to add fuel through the fuel injectors.On a LT1 or EFI mustang(up to 99) The dry kits come with a Nitrous Management Unit.Here is how it works.The dry nozzle plumbs in after the mass air meter,before throttle body.This nozzle still sprays nitrous only.The NMU inriches the fuel by bumping up the fuel pressure.This is caused by putting pressure on the fuel regulater.
WET Nitrous Systems
A Wet Nitrous System adds nitrous and fuel together thru one nozzle.This nozzle will plumb into the air induction before the the throttle body after the mass air meter.If possible about 3 to 6 inches before the throttle body.This system has two solenoids,a nitrous solenoid and a fuel solenoid.On most GM Vehicles you will have a shrader valve.You will remove the stem out of it and simply screw the line on that runs to the fuel solenoid.Cars that do not have a shrader valve you will have to splice into the fuel supply.
OUR VIEW ON FUEL PUDDLING.
Fuel puddling is impossible.If the tune up is right.
The air velocity in an intake is so great (at wide open throttle above 3000 rpm), it is not possible for a nitrous system operating correctly to puddle. The fuel particals would have to fall out of an atomized mist. Collect grow and then what?
A back fire is cause by the intake saturation the amount of fuel and nitrous you are injecting into an engine has a higher velocity than the suction of the engine at that rpm. The air speed stalls out, allowing for the flame in the combustion chamber to ignite what is in the intake. This is why all nitrous company's tell you not to engage unless at full throttle and above 2500-3000 rpms.
Here is another way to look at this.
Lets take fog for example.It is heavy air.Inside are water particles. Correct? You dont see water droplets falling out of it.Does your car die on a foggy day. NOPE but there is a lot of water in the air. Shouldn't that water collect in the intake and then make the car die. Fuel vapors are the same they can not just fall out of the air stream
A proper wet system works the same way.Unless you use to big of a fuel jet causing to much fuel to flow you have nothing to worry about.
The nitrous pulverises the fuel into a particle.The nitrous and the fuel will travel threw the intake with no problem.It is impossible for the fuel to drop out unless your tune up is wrong and you are spraying to much fuel.The suction from the motor at wide open throttle will suck the fuel and nitrous in at such a rate of speed it can not puddle.
Dave
NITROUS EXPRESS
First.
The single nozzle kit.This kit is the most common system on the market.It comes with the jetting to recieve 35 to 150 HP.With the purchase of extra jets this system can put out 250HP.
Second,
The maff system,
This system is one of the most liked system on the market.It is capable up upgrading to a dual stage and putting out 250Hp on each side of the plate.This system works buy replacing your stock mass air ends.There is a spray bar built into these ends that work just like the shark nozzle.The maff system comes with a electronic TPS switch intead of a machanical microswitch that comes in other systems.This system is liked for its clean install.
Third,
The dual nozzle System.This system uses dual shark nozzles.It comes with horse power settings from 100 to 250 hp.
Fourth,
The dual stage system.This system was desighned for the racer that is spraying a a larger shot and is traction limited.This system is basically two single nozle systems in one.It comes with the jetting to spray 35 to 150 hp on each stage.With the purchase of extra jets it will can produce up to 250 hp on each stage.There are sevral of ways to set up this system.First,You can run the first stage off of the micro switch and the second stage off of a button.Second,You could run both systems off of a micro switch and two different toggle switches.The most common way for the track guys is with a digiset.This is a time delay.The way it works is you wire it in so that after the first stage is activated the second stage will automatically come on after the dealyed time you have programed in.
Fifth,
Another common way of running larger Hp shots with out traction loss is using a nitrous controller.The Maximizer is the most advanced controller on the market.This unit uses a Palm PDA to upload and display the Maximizer information. This is the ONLY unit on the market to date with a built in RPM activated window switch with a gear counting feature, and the first to have a TPS voltage sensing switch to activate and de-activate the system. The Maximizer also has a delay and ramp feature. This unit will ramp up or down for turbo cars, and you can also change the ramp parameters for each gear. Finally, the unit hooks up to your O2’s to read the air/fuel ratio and allows you to cut the nitrous off at any given ratio. You can use this system in juction with any single stage system such as a directport,single nozzle, or maff system.
Sixth,
The Direct port,
This system is common for the racer spraying larger HP levels.A direct port kit injects nitrous and fuel into individual runners.You can individualy tune each cylinder. You can spray larger amounts of nitrous and fuel into the engine more precisly.I do not recommend this system for the common guy sraying under 200 hp.This system normally requires tunning.There are several Direct ports system offered of different styles.We even offer custom show quality direct ports for the guys looking for a little extra style.
TEXAS NITROUS TECHNOLOGIES
First.
The Power Ring System F1.
This system has power gains power adjustable from 75-150 rear wheel horsepower.
This kit comes complete with Power Ring,Two Stainless Nozzles,Stainless N20 & Fuel Solenoids,Solenoid Brackets and screws, Jets, Stainless Braided Hoses, N20 Pressure Gauge, Bottle Nut, 17Ft Main Feed Line,Stainless Bottle Brackets, Micro Switch and Bracket, NHRA Blow Off Valve,And 10Lb Powder Coated Nitrous Bottle.
Second,
The power Ring System F2
This system has power gains adjustable from 100 to 350 HP.
This kit comes complete with Power Ring,Two Stainless Nozzles,Stainless N20 & Fuel Solenoids,Solenoid Brackets and screws, Jets, Stainless Braided Hoses, Nitrous Filter, N20 Pressure Gauge, Bottle Nut, 17Ft Main Feed Line,Stainless Bottle Brackets, Micro Switch and Bracket, NHRA Blow Off Valve,And 10Lb Powder Coated Nitrous Bottle.
Third,
The direct port F4,
This system is adjustable 300-600 Hp.This system is common for the racer spraying larger HP levels.A direct port kit injects nitrous and fuel into individual runners.You can individualy tune each cylinder. You can spray larger amounts of nitrous and fuel into the engine more precisly.
ZEX
Zex Offers one System for the LS1.This system comes adjustable 75 to 125 hp.The system will produce up to 200 hp with the purchase of extra needed jets.
Zex also offers a Dry system for the LT1.It works buy adding the extra needed fuel thru the fuel injectors.All major components are contained in the ZEX™ 'NMU', which means you won't have any unsightly solenoids or wiring.This system uses actual bottle pressure to regulate the nitrous to fuel ratio.This system has a built in TPs switch . The Zex Dry Kits will only work with vehicles with a port fuel injected engine with a return style fuel system.
NITROUS OUTLET SYSTEMS
This is our Inhouse Brand.All components in these systems are purchased from Nitrous Express.We offer several systems at this time.
First
Stage 1 Wet system
This system is adjustable from 35 to 150 Hp.With the purchase of extra jets this system can flow up to 250 Hp.
Second,
Dry Halo System,
This system was built to compete with other dry systems on the market.Instead of having nozzles twisting around in you air lid this spray ring sits under the air lid.Makes for a great hidden system.This system injects nitrous directly into the air intake and use the factory EFI system to provide the extra fuel necessary This system is also rated at the rear wheels.It comes adjustable 40,60,80 RWP. You can spray more with the extra needed Jets.
Third,
The universal Dry system.
This system is a dual nozzle dry system.Each nozzle plumbs into the side of the air lid or air box if it is a truck.This system injects nitrous directly into the air intake and use the factory EFI system to provide the extra fuel necessary This system is not realeased but will by the end of January.
NITROUS OXIDE SYSTEMS
Nos offers a dry system.This system injects nitrous directly into the air intake and use the factory EFI system to provide the extra fuel necessary
The system comes with jets for 3 different levels of horsepower: 75, 85, and 100. (125 Horsepower Jets are also available separately.) These are rated at the Flywheel.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WET AND DRY
This is the most common asked question in this industry.This is a small explanation.
DRY Nitrous Systems.
A dry system adds the fuel and nitrous seperatly.On a LS1 based Vehicle here is how it works.You have a nozzle that sprays nitrous only.This nozzle sprays before the mass air meter.The mass air meter sinces the change and tells the ECM to add fuel through the fuel injectors.On a LT1 or EFI mustang(up to 99) The dry kits come with a Nitrous Management Unit.Here is how it works.The dry nozzle plumbs in after the mass air meter,before throttle body.This nozzle still sprays nitrous only.The NMU inriches the fuel by bumping up the fuel pressure.This is caused by putting pressure on the fuel regulater.
WET Nitrous Systems
A Wet Nitrous System adds nitrous and fuel together thru one nozzle.This nozzle will plumb into the air induction before the the throttle body after the mass air meter.If possible about 3 to 6 inches before the throttle body.This system has two solenoids,a nitrous solenoid and a fuel solenoid.On most GM Vehicles you will have a shrader valve.You will remove the stem out of it and simply screw the line on that runs to the fuel solenoid.Cars that do not have a shrader valve you will have to splice into the fuel supply.
OUR VIEW ON FUEL PUDDLING.
Fuel puddling is impossible.If the tune up is right.
The air velocity in an intake is so great (at wide open throttle above 3000 rpm), it is not possible for a nitrous system operating correctly to puddle. The fuel particals would have to fall out of an atomized mist. Collect grow and then what?
A back fire is cause by the intake saturation the amount of fuel and nitrous you are injecting into an engine has a higher velocity than the suction of the engine at that rpm. The air speed stalls out, allowing for the flame in the combustion chamber to ignite what is in the intake. This is why all nitrous company's tell you not to engage unless at full throttle and above 2500-3000 rpms.
Here is another way to look at this.
Lets take fog for example.It is heavy air.Inside are water particles. Correct? You dont see water droplets falling out of it.Does your car die on a foggy day. NOPE but there is a lot of water in the air. Shouldn't that water collect in the intake and then make the car die. Fuel vapors are the same they can not just fall out of the air stream
A proper wet system works the same way.Unless you use to big of a fuel jet causing to much fuel to flow you have nothing to worry about.
The nitrous pulverises the fuel into a particle.The nitrous and the fuel will travel threw the intake with no problem.It is impossible for the fuel to drop out unless your tune up is wrong and you are spraying to much fuel.The suction from the motor at wide open throttle will suck the fuel and nitrous in at such a rate of speed it can not puddle.
Dave
Last edited by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet; 01-21-2005 at 03:09 PM.
01-17-2005, 11:49 AM
#2
Nice write up Dave. I hope many people see it. Sometimes people just get on the board and start asking questions without searching, meanwhile ignoring the nice stickies our Admin. and Mods. put up there for all to see.
Thank you for taking the time for this informative and comprehensive write up.
Thank you for taking the time for this informative and comprehensive write up.
01-17-2005, 12:30 PM
#4
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We bought a NX 150 wet kit from Dave that is working great. We use a Walbro 255 pump, fuel pressure gauge on the driver's pillar, bottle heater, separate NOS arming and bottle heater switches, and 3200-6000 rpm window switch (w/6000 rpm pill).
01-17-2005, 02:07 PM
#5
11 Second Club
Dave, what do you think of MSD's digital RPM switch pn 8969 for use with an '01 Z06? It looks to be slightly cheaper than the older style pill-type switch, once you figure in the cost of the pills... I was also noticing on one of the other vendor sites a mention that the older style MSD window switch needed to be modified to work with the C5. What's up with that?
Thanks, TJ
Thanks, TJ
01-17-2005, 03:16 PM
#7
11 Second Club
Steve, I have.
I've already got the same kit you have with the Gen-x upgrade and a purge setup. I just ordered a fuel pressure gauge. I'm still deciding on window switch, activation switches and whether I need a nitrous pressure gauge in the cockpit... I'm still a few weeks away, but I want to set it up right.
TJ
I've already got the same kit you have with the Gen-x upgrade and a purge setup. I just ordered a fuel pressure gauge. I'm still deciding on window switch, activation switches and whether I need a nitrous pressure gauge in the cockpit... I'm still a few weeks away, but I want to set it up right.
TJ
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01-17-2005, 03:20 PM
#8
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I agree. I can't speak for your Z06 clutch, but my SLP clutch is having a very hard time with the 150 shot. Will order a new one.
01-17-2005, 03:54 PM
#9
11 Second Club
Yea, the clutch is a whole nother thang...
The Z06 clutch is supposed to be better than the stock LS1 clutch, but I doubt it'll hold up to 430+ at the wheels for long. And then there's the tires...
The Z06 clutch is supposed to be better than the stock LS1 clutch, but I doubt it'll hold up to 430+ at the wheels for long. And then there's the tires...
01-18-2005, 12:02 AM
#12
Not to be disrespectful to Nitro Dave, but, most common systems on the market? You would have to include one of the most popular, the NOS 5177 dry kit. But I don't think you sell them, so thread may be a little biased, remember this is not a personal attack. These kits are very versatile and very,very safe. Long live the giggle gas.
01-18-2005, 12:44 AM
#13
NOS dry kits suck, everyone I know who had one either sold it and went to a wet kit or upgraded the dry kit to a wet kit. NitroDave does sell a dry kit, one that he makes.
SDB
SDB
01-18-2005, 08:23 AM
#14
I believe I have pushed the 5177 kit as far as anyone and I agree with robert56 it is a viable option for the majority of the people. That being said I will be removing my 5177 kit as I have a bullit proof 408 being assembled as we speak and will be in need of a big hp system.
01-18-2005, 09:45 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Robert56
Not to be disrespectful to Nitro Dave, but, most common systems on the market? You would have to include one of the most popular, the NOS 5177 dry kit. But I don't think you sell them, so thread may be a little biased, remember this is not a personal attack. These kits are very versatile and very,very safe. Long live the giggle gas.
You are right.I am a real,real,real slow typer.And bad speller so that took me a long time yesterday.LOL I started getting tired at the end.We do sell the NOS Dry kit.Im not a big fan of it but you are right.Ill add it when I catch up.
We do sell a our own dry kit also and about to realease another dry kit. These will do every bit of NOSs Dry kit and has better quality solenoids.
I also Did not put those up there but Ill add the rest of the stuff today.
Thanks
Dave
01-18-2005, 09:56 AM
#16
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There's no need for you to apologize, Dave. I just switched from a dry to wet system due to safety considerations. To the extent you might tend to downplay dry systems, it's probably to the benefit of your customers.
01-18-2005, 10:49 PM
#17
Nitro Dave, that's great that you are putting together a good dry kit, will it have redunant solenoids? I will agree that the NOS 5177 has some what small winding solenoids, but I think they do that to keep the cost down. I am currently using 5177 as dual stage dry/dry with dual window switched, but am changing it to dry/wet dual stage. I'll use the 5177 for dry and what would you recommend for the companion wet kit? If I agree with you, I'll pick one up, as I have only heard good things about Dave's n2o Outlet.
01-19-2005, 12:31 AM
#18
man, I have been trying to decide which kit to go with for weeks, leave it to nitro dave to put together the perfect shopping list for me to browse, gonna be the his Halo 10 pounder. 
was debating on the 5177 but i like the looks of that halo setup.
my goal is to dip into high 11s so im gonna have to come up with some more hp from somewhere...
gotta buddy with a 3rd gen that i gotta keep up with. not gonna cut it yet.
was debating on the 5177 but i like the looks of that halo setup.
my goal is to dip into high 11s so im gonna have to come up with some more hp from somewhere...
gotta buddy with a 3rd gen that i gotta keep up with. not gonna cut it yet. 