Like I said, I believe that those injectors are COMPLETELY maxed out. Buy a bigger injector and I bet the car is more driveable, reliabkle, and lays down better times.

 

When an injector reaches 100%, it is NOT SOMETHING THAT THE COMPUTER IS JUST SAYING. It means that the injector is STATIC, or WIDE OPEN, and NO LONGER PULSING. The injector, as I have read before, "is just along for the ride".

You example of "highway gears" IS WRONG. The MORE air, the MORE fuel. As RPMS increase, in ANY MOTOR, with ANY Gear, whether is be 6000rpms with 3.23's, or 6000rpms with 4.10's, IT IS STILL 6000RPMS, needs the same fuel, because it has the same air, and same RPMS.

 

But I'm not on the **** while I'm driving around going to Kmart? My drivability is stock.... bigger injectors requires me to tune for what??? so I can get the same AFR and lighten the car by the weight of several hundred dollar bills?

 

No you are wrong. Where did you come from?
did you get kicked off the Ford forums?

 

Your car, do what you want, just don't MAKE **** up that is WRONG.

"duty cycle is just a number"

"I tried to tell you in an earlier post that a car with highway gears will not require as much fuel volume because the number of revolutions per time is much less than what you might run with a manual trans and 4 series rear gears."

"No they don't. That number is simply something the PCM calculates."

"Science lol... riiiiiight."

"who cares what your "injector duty cycle" is? It's just a number designed to freak you out and make you go buy injectors."

"Ignore the calculations for injector duty cycle. Those ideas are perpetuated by busines that sell injectors."

So much WRONG AND MIS-INFORMATION BY YOU TWO GUYS ITS REDICULOUS.

 

Like I said, your car, do what you want. I could care less, other than you are stating OBVIOUS WRONG information.

 

Yup then they just get out of the way and let the fuel pump try to keep up.

Do you understand that a geared car will shift recover at a higher RPM and spend a whole lot more time during the run at higher RPM? I barely make the shift to third before the traps and recover at 3000 rpms... where are you recovering? The amount of charge that ANY engine consumes is relatively constant in proportion to RPM. If it takes in 350ci of charge per revolution then you multiply that by revolutions per minute to determine the flow (not taking into effect several small factors ie, scavenging, forced induction, etc). If your average RPM for the run is higher then the amount of ingested oxygen is proportionally higher and you MUST provide the appropriate additional fuel for that. Hense, a geared car requires more fuel during the same run.

 

What do you run?

 

12.1@104
http://home.comcast.net/~chalupa28/BYEBYECLUTCH.wmv

 

Cummon now... we're so full of **** so you are obviously an 8 second car. That Cobra has what done to it, I know they don't come stock with 60# injectors...?

 

R/T... .383
60'... 1.744
330... 4.883
1/8... 7.652
MPH... 89.27
990... 9.923
1/4... 12.113
MPH... 104.55

BEFORE 60# injectors anyway.

HOWEVER, this has NO relation to the topic at hand.

 

lol Even ford driver's filenames have excuses.

 

I don't recall making any excuses?????? The car runs 12.1@104, that's all there is to it.

It's okay to try and change subjects once you realize you were wrong, but please, admit to saying idiotic things first .

 

I'll agree that a lower geared car uses less total fuel over the course of the 1/4 mile because the average RPM is lower assuming the same elapsed time. But as 5.8litrels1eater stated, the instanteous rate of fuel delivery is higher at 6000 RPM than at 3000 RPM, so if both cars with equal motors both hit 6000 RPM, the injector sizing requirements are the same regardless of gearing.

A/F is the key and you are satisfied that your's is safe and it works for you. When IDC is at 100%, the injector is contantly on and builds up heat, and as we all know, heat is the enemy of electric devices. Running 100% IDC (which you obviously are) is your choice and it's working for you. For how long... that is the question.

 

Not only is heat the enemy of electric devices, but it is the enemy of every motor. The hotter the fuel, the worse for the cylinder that it is being dumped in to. The 100% duty cycle indicates that the injector is static, or wide open, or otherwise, no longer pulsing.

 

Yes but as I said earlier.. it's not about the injectors it's about the ability to push fuel into the charge. When the injectors are wide open (if indeed they go wide open) then they are simply functioning as fuel jets and the volume of fuel is effected only by the fuel pump at that point. In my case the pump and factory lines are capable of more than enough volume through the holes in the injectors to satisfy the requirements of my engine for the 10 seconds it takes me to get to the end of the 1/4. If it were a 1/2 mile race it would be different. If I had 4.88 gears it would be different. If I drove a 12 second ford with a slipping clutch it would be different. If you are scared of offending your injectors by asking them to do work then upgrade. As I understand it a set of 60# injectors would do nicely and be good for at least a 12.1.

Do you honestly think that your injectors are cool while you are running about town with a 220 degree engine??? What about the cooling effect of all that fuel passing through heat sinking that supposedly deadly heat away?

Bottom line (provided your injectors go wide open theory is true, and personally I don't know how you can prove that with a scanner) is that you should upgrade injectors when your pump is not capable of pushing fuel through the physical holes in the injectors in sufficient quantity to maintain AFR.

 

Hmm my engine barely gets to 140 degrees on the highway. And how exactly is the "hot" fuel that apparently transfered 8 billion degrees in the steaming nuclear core that is the 2.5 inches of fuel injector going to dramaticly heat a charge that is allready super cooled by the Nitrous? And how the hell is a tiny 12 volt device going to generate enough heat to even MINUTELY increase the temperature of a fast moving stream of cool liquid in such a tiny amount of surface area? And you say we're full of ****. lol

OK just for the sake of arguement lets say they do go static.... then they are fuel jets at that point like I said earlier. When that happens is all about your fuel pump delivering enough.

As far as changing the subject. I asked the question in the first place because I think you are **** hurt that a stock chevy made your Cobra look like a Garden Snake. I was making a point that all your theories and "ahem" knowledge didn't result in **** except a lighter wallet and now public ridicule.
I ask you what you ran and you show me a video entitled "byebyeclutch". OK so you blew up your clutch... I didn't ask you for the slowest run you made. The only reason I can come up with for posting that run is that you don't have a run that is faster and you want to use that slipping clutch bullshit as the standard cobra excuse. Pretty gay if you ask me.

 

WTF are you smoking??? Seriously, I would like to know....

Hurt that a chevy made more power???? First off, my brothers WS6 will destroy my 03 cobra (off spray). I actually have respect for GM's and fords. I'm not a blind loyal retard. The thought never even came across my mind about making this a "ford vs. chevy" argument. They are stupid, senseless, and immature. Give it up. As for other runs, I DO have faster runs. I see no need to tell you the times of my car. Here is an offspray video (the other vid. was on spray, 1st and 2nd gear). For arguments sake, or the lack there of, here is just one of my times that I actually have on video..

R/T... .444
60'... 1.937
330... 5.017
1/8... 7.576
MPH... 96.42
990... 9.709
1/4... 11.622
MPH... 122.21

http://home.comcast.net/~sjvhsr/OFFSPRAYWEB.wmv

Lastly, I could care less if your car is "faster". There's TONS of cars faster than my car, your car, your brothers cousins sons uncles car. I could care less. As to my "theory" not resulting in better results, I have NO results with the 60# injectors. A bigger injector won't necessarily give you more power, but it leaves room on the table for you to make more power. I will be sure to post up what my times are with the 175 shot once I get the new clutch installed. Your OPINION about duty cycle and injector longetivity is rediculous. If you are running your injector remotely close to 100% duty cycle, you are asking for problems. I will pass on using 39# injectors on my car, with a 175 shot. OFF spray, I am already pushing 85% duty cycle, on the 30 shot I was at 90% duty cycle. As to the lighter wallet, I would much rather spend 440 on 60# injectors over the 3000 I would spend if I had a severe lean condition because there wasn't enough fuel. Now, to the public ridicule, you and your boyfriend are the ONLY people that would agree with your idiotic statements. IF your theory is correct, sell your 28# injectors and find some 14 pound injectors. It shouldn't matter according to you .

I honestly can't believe you think that injector size and duty cycle doesn't matter. I really can't believe it. Why in the world would they even make bigger injectors??? That's right, according to you, "so that aftermarket can just sell them". Why would your car come with 28# injectors. I mean, they would have been fine running 14's, or even less .

 

lol again, you play it off with a "Here's my car doing something else". WTF are you afraid of... I'm gonna tell everybody what you run. lol Why do you constantly avoid the question?

Do you think that olympic swimmers take the advice of the High School Jr. Varsity team captain?? Who would you believe, someone who actually does it... or someone who thinks alot about what other people write about.
Really now.where is the extra power man, you left like 1000 hp worth of room and that's all you can do?When.... then catch phrase of ricers and Cobra drivers Then how am I doing it??? It would seem like the person with the theory here is you.Racing is asking for problems...No **** Sherlock... Boost is a different game... won't work for you because of the blower. Passing on the 39#ers, well it'll be the only thing you pass if you keep up with that way of thinking. Well doesn't surprise me, you probably can't believe you get beat either.Nope there are points where you need bigger injectors, boost for example. Or when the orifice size is too small to pump sufficient volume through at a given pressure (a point in my case that is well in excess of a 200 shot) You.... are an idiot. That is all.

Bottom line. I can't believe you are having a hard time with this.... what part of "I am doing it right now", didn't sink in? I am actually doing everything I claim where you haven't done ANYTHING at all. By your standards I shoulda blown up first time out but looky here... I didn't. If it quacks like a duck and walks like a duck... it's a duck, and your theory.. looks like a turd and smells like a turd.

Quit trying to apply your car's situation to mine. It is completely different given your combo of boost and bottle.

 

I'm not going to bother tearing apart all of your pointless arguments. Instead, I am going to refer back to YOUR OWN WORDS.

You DID say that, and you are still standing by it .

Like "I" ALREADY STATED, I believe you are running what you are, BUT YOUR INJECTORS ARE MAXED OUT. When your injector fails do to the constant static condition, causing your injector to close most of the way or shorten/weaken pulse(it's not OPEN all the time, it PULSES OPEN, not pulses shut), don't come here complaining. You, my friend, are an idiot.

Boost or no boost, when duty cycle reaches 100% you aren't doing a favor to your motor. You're taking serious chances of the injector failing, thus rendering a lean condition, ultimately causing you some major headaches.

Like I HAVE SAID, YOUR CAR, do what you want. DON'T COME ON HERE giving people STUPID advice that their cars will be fine with stock injectors and a 200 dry shot.
This is a tech. site and you are giving HORRIBLE tech advice.