Have you ever wondered why NX solenoids were the first to market with a purge port.
\With the purge valve after the orifice you have liquid nitrous waiting to right at the piston. This will give you a quicker flow time. Having the purge before the solenoid as many companies still use today will allow a small amount of space not to get nitrous to when purging.
Also the location of the filter being in the solenoid gives you the best location to catch any trash before getting to the piston.
Here are some pictures of the inside cut away of your Nitrous Express nitrous solenoid.


This picture the oring and spring have been omitted. And must be there for accurate opertion of your solenoid.


For people that want to overhaul or check their solenoids out just follow these steps. If you are not 100% sure you want to do this or can do this, just send your NX solenoids in, you only need to pay the freight and or for a coil if coil burn out has happened.

You will need a solenoid wrench. Pn15733 This tool is a must for any one serious about there nitrous and racing. You can see in the last picture why you should never grab the tower with pliers. That material can be damaged easily and you piston could get stuck. That would be bad .
You will remove the large nut at the top of you solenoid, and remove the coil. Now you will need to put the solenoid into a vise. Using the same tool there are 2 little holes that corresponds with the wrench, remove the tower.
Care should be taken not to loose any of these components.
After the tower is removed you will see the piston, spring, and o-ring.
If any debris is found on the piston just wipe it off carefully, and then blow the solenoid out with compressed air. Blowing air backwards through your filter will blow any trash out of the inlet. reinstall your o-ring in the base, now install the spring on to the piston, slide the piston back into the tower, and very careful reinstall the tower to base. Now you can reinstall the coil and tighten the nut. (IT should be snug tight not ½ inch braker bar tight) It is EXTREMELY important that you do not have any parts get into a bind when reinstalling. If you damage any one of the listed parts the solenoid will not work properly.
Hope this help some understand what is going on in your nitrous solenoids.

Ricky

 

Thanks for the info. How often should the solenoid be diassembled, inspected and cleaned?

 

Kinda a loaded question. As long as your main supply is clean I would check every 20-40 refills or once a year.
Ricky

 

in your experience, what parts typically go bad/get damaged the most?

do all the diffenent solinoids have different replacment part numbers?

Can u post the p/n's if its not too much trouble. We need to take all of NXrickys post and put them into a sticky FAQ for NX
I might as well stock up now

 

Really nothing gets damaged. Most of time there is a tiny piece of trash under the piston. It stops the piston from meeting up with the seat. Usually you just wipe it off, reinstall and open the bottle. Now there will still be a little leak. (remember that piece of trash, it left a small dent in the piston) The noid must be cycled on and off a few time to RESEAT the piston.
Most of solenoids we get in just need to be cleaned and then reseated. Now the coils
once the magic smoke is released that part is dead, and must be replaced. And if the coil burn down is bad enough the tower, coil must be replaced. At that point it is cheaper to purchase another noid.

Yes, there are only 2 solenoids that enterchange parts. They are the .093 and the .125 nitrous solenoids. The only difference is the orifice hole.
I will post pn up next.
Ricky

 

I blew my motor last december spraying N20 and out of frustration, just parked the car in the garage, put a cover on it, and decided to forget about racing for a while (this was good for me ). But anyway, a couple of weeks ago, I opened the car up and was messing w/things and realized I had left the bottle open for the last few months, is this something I need to worry about? There was probably only 2-3lbs in the bottle, does that matter? Should I get my noids checked out? Thanks--Andy

 

Yes I would send the noids in. Pressure against the piston for long periods of time can damage the sealing material. And since the nitrous one needs to come in then I would go ahead and send the fuel in. Now what happened to blow the thing up?
Ricky

 

Hey Ricky,

The pics are 'section views' not 'exploded views'.
I couldn't pass that one up...

Great info on the solenoid valves though! Which reminds me, I have one I need to send in for a check-up before all this snow melts up here in New England.
Vinny

 

So it doesn't cost anything except for the cost of shipping?...I'll fill ya in on why my motor went when I get back home tonight, maybe you can help me figure out why it went

 

Ok Vinny you got me on that one.. Get that noid into to me. What do you have another month or two of snow. lol
Ricky