I ran a 12.2 in my stock Z06 with TR6's - I didnt have any problems with them, and a good friend of mine with a '03 GT with TR6's saw no decrease in power.

 

We have installed so many sets of TR6s in customers cars its not even funny.I have had no issues with any of them.This is the only reason I can think of someone having a problem.If your tune is already border line of not being a good tune maybe this small change made your almost bad tune even worse.I could be wrong.Its just the only thing that I can think of.
Keep in mind the only way to tell a true hp loss is back to back pulls.And even then a dyno log can vary.Two different days at the track or even passes back to back can vary also.
A TR6 plug is not all that big of a jump from a TR55.Im sure it make a small difference but Plug gap could also be a factor.
I say put some NGK TR6s gaped about 36 and have fun.
Dave

 

I've used two sets in my car. They fouled up fairly quick with the old setup (7k miles).

Not a huge problem for my since my car isn't daily driven and I sorta see it as good "practice" to change the plugs.

 

cold plugs will not tolerate a pig-rich tune. You have to get them hot enough to keep the insulator clean.
those plugs aren't even all that cold of a plug, so some of you that are having problems are really off track with something.

Start the engine up dead-cold in the middle of winter, and then shut it off before it's out of cold-start enrichment... that's just asking to foul plugs.
When you start modifying cars away from stock, they aren't idiot-proof anymore. You just have to think about what you're doing.

A lot of you want a plug-n-play situation with minimal knowledge about what you're doing, along with 500 hp any time you want... well it's not always that easy.

If you're serious about using nitrous then there is quite a lot to learn.
Your choice is to either run pig-rich on the bottle to keep the burn cool, or you lean it out for more power and have to take steps to prevent a hotspot in the chamber... as in running cold plugs. There is no promise of safety with either method you choose, but it helps to know what you're doing and why you're doing it.
A very cold plug will need some attention if you run them full-time. Keeping the tune very lean will be good for them. Getting them up to full operating temp (no really short trips, no quick start & shut-down) before shutting the engine off helps. You cannot always do this, so periodically it's good to pull the plugs and blast the insulators clean. I find it helps to hit them with a propane torch for a couple minutes to burn the fluids off the insulator. I use a CTS tricker box to bring the engine out of cold-start enrichment very quickly so as not to hose down the plugs unneccessarily.
I go as far as sanding and polishing the ends of the plugs so there are no 90* angles, sharp points, or threads protruding into the chamber.

Why learn about plugs?
A plug failure while on the bottle can mean the death of your engine plain and simple. A molten ground strap coming off and hitting the piston is usually catastrophic. Even if the plug stays intact, if it becomes a glowing hotspot it can create detonation.
Take this information for what it's worth. Screwing in a one-step colder plug will not always save your ***.

Also anyone who has trouble with a TR6 (not really that cold of a plug) is probably doing something wrong. I'd think the most likely culprit is just a bad idle or part-throttle tune.
Another possibility is if you got a set of plugs with the screw-on type tips where the wire engages. I stay far away from the screw-on types.
One more possibility is whenever you buy a set of resistor-type spark plugs there is the risk of getting a bad one. The resistors can crack inside from heat and/or vibration, shock of being dropped, etc... and you cannot tell by looking at them. The only way to tell is to test them with an ohmmeter both cold and hot. A sure way to avoid this problem is to run non-resistor style plugs.

I run the Autolite AR472 plug where the "R" in the part number means "racing" and not "resistor". They are non-resistor, have solid tips, and are much colder than your TR6's being built for the abuse of racing. Being so, you have to take this into consideration when you try to run them full-time in a daily driver.

 

You may need more work on your tune with those bigger injectors.

 

ttt
I see lots of spark plug questions lately.

 

I even forgot my tr6s were in no change in driveability or n/a e.t. I am mostly stock tho.

 

it looks like to me to much fuel in the motor. yo ;
ckn hwk tune by blknite

 

I ran the tr-6's for a long time and no problems with them n/a.

 

tr6 here in my car. no problems. the difference b/w tr55 and tr6 is so tiny you can barely tell the difference in how cold they run. now if you run a tr8 different story. 6 tenths, no way. not even close. its some other issue.

 

I installed some tr6's in my car last week. My car ran super rich and set off codes po175 and po172. The Tr6's even idled a little rougher. I changed back to some new TR55's and the idle was better and the lower and midrange HP and torque feels alot better. Each car is different and spark plugs can make or break your performance. I know this from experience.

 

I too installed some TR6's last week and noticed only one difference in power. If I start the car and leave right away it will hesitate when I gas it, but that lasts for only a minute or two because it's cold, but when they warm up I notice no difference from them and the stock ones that were in there.

 

so for nitrous do you use the tr55's or the tr6's. Sorry for the newb question oh i found the number for the 55 does anybody know what it is for the tr6's

 

tr6's. part number is 4177 i believe.

 

tr6's for spray, just installed mine havnt noticed a diffrence actually runs better than my 60 thousand mile stock plugs

 

If you're looking for solid performance on the spray and on motor, you may want to consider the iridium plugs by NGK. I run the TR6ix's. Iridium will take tons more heat than conventional plug material and it is a better conductor than even platinum to light the fires! Expensive, but you can have your cake and eat it too.

 

if there is power loss its not noticable

 

i love that the advanced auto actually has something good for my car in stock like these plugs.. i get my 55's from them but i figured these would be a special order item but they jsut so happen to have 8 in stock of the tr6's. at only 1.58 a plug you cant beat it!

 

Which sponsor sells these?

 

Tuning definitely, TR6s will hate a rich cold start up or a warm start before it goes in to closed loop, for the guys that are fouling plugs check your tunes

I run TR6s all the time in my 422, starts up perfectly, and run great on and off the bottle, and the gap is at .045 right now too, I should decrease it a tad for the 150 shot.