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Which is safer 100 Shot Wet or Dry

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Old 02-22-2005, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 97M6Formula
As far as kits the tnt nozzles are proven to atomize nitrous and fuel perfectly as well as there solenoids being very well built
Nice thing about a dry kit is how easy it is to hide it though
Okay I guess I'm an idiot, and you're a kit buying genius
Like I said, mid 120's on the motor ain't bad... you're getting there.

I believe we said dry systems are safer,
and to me (and I don't mess with kits), there is not even a comparison.
Bells and whistles don't make you safe, so don't think they do.
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Old 02-22-2005, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by white2001s10
Okay I guess I'm an idiot, and you're a kit buying genius
Like I said, mid 120's on the motor ain't bad... you're getting there.

I believe we said dry systems are safer,
and to me (and I don't mess with kits), there is not even a comparison.
Bells and whistles don't make you safe, so don't think they do.

Just wondering what kind fo car do you have and what mods do you have?
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Old 02-22-2005, 06:32 PM
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a couple of fbodies. Mods sounds so ******-ish
kind of like kits
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Old 02-22-2005, 07:18 PM
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Come on guys (maybe bitches) enough with the bad mouthing.This site is for tech advise/support.I've owned both dry/wet n20 setups.I like each one differentally.Dry is great cause you dont have to worry about running the bottle empty or fuel siliniod messing up.But on the other hand your relaying on the pcm to do all the work without error and hope that your injectors are big enough to handle the load of both the engine and nitrious.Wet on the other hand has to maintain fuel and nitrious pressure independently from the pcm to make sure they have the proper mixture.But when properly done the result is a safe setup.Either setup (dry/wet) can be safe.The problem is how much are you willing to moniter either system.Dry setup ,I think once a/f has been checked on some sort of instrument is better for someone who just wants "fill the bottle and go".Wet setup requires more monitering/safety switches to ensure a safe a/f ratio. This is my opinion based on my personal experience, so dont start thinking Im a expert.Hope this helps on your chioce on dry or wet.
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Old 02-22-2005, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by smokeum99ta
Come on guys (maybe bitches) enough with the bad mouthing.This site is for tech advise/support.I've owned both dry/wet n20 setups.I like each one differentally.Dry is great cause you dont have to worry about running the bottle empty or fuel siliniod messing up.But on the other hand your relaying on the pcm to do all the work without error and hope that your injectors are big enough to handle the load of both the engine and nitrious.Wet on the other hand has to maintain fuel and nitrious pressure independently from the pcm to make sure they have the proper mixture.But when properly done the result is a safe setup.Either setup (dry/wet) can be safe.The problem is how much are you willing to moniter either system.Dry setup ,I think once a/f has been checked on some sort of instrument is better for someone who just wants "fill the bottle and go".Wet setup requires more monitering/safety switches to ensure a safe a/f ratio. This is my opinion based on my personal experience, so dont start thinking Im a expert.Hope this helps on your chioce on dry or wet.
Before my fan club arrives, lets see if I can post.

What are your feelings on spraying the MAF and tuning for the correct AFR by using more or less nitrous with a wide band. IMO it takes some of the MAF uncertainty out of the picture. There's been lots of discussion (or the yelling of "YOU CAN'T DOOOO THAT" and pitchforks and such) about the injector variable with a dry system like that. What are your thoughts on it?
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickin
I was told that with a dry kit at the moment the spray starts all the pistons run lean until the MAF can tell the PCM to tell the injectors to spray more fuel into the cylinders.

Seems logical and over time it would take a toll on the pistons, the wet kit won't do that.

What do you all think of that????? Its just what I was told about dry kits.
Both kits will show a lean spike. Some guys running wet have been talking lately about a way to get fuel flowing first then n2o to combate lean spike. i believe they were going to try an extra fpss wired to activate n20 noid after fuel noid or something like that, anyone remember? My fix for the lean spike (at least to minimize) is dual stage, with the added benifit (for some) of better launches and 60ft times by somewhat progressivly adding torque (minimize torque spike also).
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Old 02-22-2005, 11:27 PM
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My dry kit never showed a lean spike all the way up to a 300 shot. The wideband on the dynojet may not have the reselution to see a very fast spike though. My EGT datalogger will. But I wont be running dry any more.
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Old 02-22-2005, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jz06man
Which is safer on a modified LS6, H/C pacakge with stock injector & fuel system.
I'm more intrested in safety that growing with the system.
I'm palnning WOT switch,window switch, fuel switch- What else and which kits will fit my needs.
Thanks'
Wow this thread took a turn for the worse.If you have any technical advice you would like my help with feel free to pm me.

You asked a loaded question.Wet versus dry is the most argued question in the nitrous world.
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