GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

Yes, all the kits listed are completly adjustable. I've seen them all support up to atleast a 200 shot . The NX MAF & TNT power ring set ups are in the $800 and up range while the NX universal EFI can be had for under $600. I would budget atleast $1200 to get a complete system up and running (maybe less with the NX universal kit). You can get almost all your accessories from NX or TNT but shop around to get the best bargains. Check out Dynotune for some of the stuff. They have great products at pretty good prices. Nitrous will work well with most bolt ons. Only things to stay away from are aftermarket MAFs and also IAT sensors that trick the computer into upping the timing.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok, sounds great thanks for your help. Whats a stall and is it useful? Thanks. When running this 150 hp shot max and minor bolt ons, what should i do with the rear end? Will it handle, change gears, which ones? Also for putting this power to the ground, any ideas for suspension and best tires for the strip? Also what do i need to pull a wheelie? Nothing major jsut curious. Thanks

Ole1830

Hi superman.

I realize this is a nitrous forum and you came here to inquire about nitrous, but let me suggest something for you to consider.

I got a 100/125 dry kit about 2 months after I got my car, obviously because I wanted more power. If I had it to do all over again, I would have gotten my aftermarket stall before I started spraying. I would have probably eventually ended up getting a nitrous kit sooner or later anyway. It's just my opinion if it's an EITHER/OR decision, you would probably have more fun with a stall, sticky tires, and a few suspension mods than you would with a nitrous kit.

I hope that makes an ounce of sense. Take it easy.

Matt

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Hello, well what is a stall and what does it do, how much do they cost. I have no idea, lol. Also which sticky tires for the track would you suggest and suspension mods? WHat will i run with a few minor bolt ons, a stall, suspension mods and sticky tires about? Now will my rear end hold up with these tires or what should i do with that. All help is great. You guys are awesome on here. I get super fast replys and learn more and more every 20 mins. Ive learned a ton jsut today. thanks again.

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

When people refer to stalls they are talking about torque converters. They are very useful. Many people drop .5 in the quarter with a good stall and sticky tires. Basicly, the stock converter stalls around 1,500 rpm or so (I think) and most street guys will run a 3,000rpm or higher stall. With nitrous you'll want to stay less then 3,800rpm. The stall will do two major things, you will be able to foot brake the car and get it off the line at a higher rpm and your shift extensions wil be raised. Shift extensions are the rpm after the car shifts, my 3,500 stalls shift extensions are about 4,400 rpm. So when the car is banging through the gears the rpm never drops below 4,400rpm or so. I've always thought that stalls are one of the first mods that should be done to an A4.

The rear is a gamble. If you don't spray it out of the hole it should be ok. But some guys break their 10 bolts after 2 11 second passes, and others make tons of 10 second passes no problem. I would not worry about the gears your running whether they are 2.73s or 3.23s they will do ok with a well matched torque converter. You might see .1-.15 with a gear change. A Nitto, BFG, or M/T drag radial will help you put power to the ground.

Suspension, depends how you want the car to handle. If you really don't want to burn up corners check out some adjustable drag shocks like the QA1s. I have had good sucess with my QA1s and my hypercoil lowering springs. Relocation brackets and new Lower Control Arms will help get rid of any wheel hop on a lowered car and if your lowering you'll need and adjustable Pan Hard Rod to recenter the rear. I run all light wieght aluminium rod end stuff. Makes alittle noise but it's light. You also might need to a thicker rear sway bar or an air bag in the right rear to get the car to leave straight and not pop the drivers side tire up. An adjustable Torque Arm will probrably be at the bottom of your suspension parts list. I'm running mine until it breaks (already bent alittle). They do allow you to adjust pinion angle which will really help your car 60'. If you want a wheelie it's all in the suspension set up. Get some skinnies on the front, sticky tires in the rear, take some wieght off the nose, and start playing with shock adjustments.

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

Stalls are $400-900. Fuddle and Midwest run around the $400-500 range and Vigilanties and Yanks run around $600-900. You'll also want a 24,000 GVW cooler and a shift kit or handheld tuner to firm up your shifts (stall will soften shifts). Expect to pay about $350 for an install. I run a Midwest converter, Trans Go shift kit, and B&M cooler.

BTW: if you get a stall make sure it can handle nitrous. Some run sprags that cannot handle all the extra torque.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok thanks a ton. Changed my mind now after learning more. I may hold off on nitrous for a little, how easy are stalls to install and whats a good brand? That sounds like a ton for suspension, where should i start, QA1's? Also going the tran-go shift kit and a trans-cooler? From bone stock, where should i spend my first 2 grand? Trust me, in a few years, i iwll have one bad f-body. hehe

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok jsut missed your second post. Ill check into the Midwests, maybe a 3600? a trans-go shift kit (where can i get this and price) and the B&M cooler, where and price. Ill probably start with the exhaust and than these 3 items. Think an LS6 intake and LID are musts or what? Cant decide where to go first. Also what do sticky tires cost and now long do they last and can you sue them in the rain? Thanks again. u guys rule!

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

I don't think that there are any Midwest dealers left on the board but Fuddle is now a sponsor. A 3600 stall would be good and if you have 2.73s or 3.23s you'll probrably want a 2.5 str. STR is basilcy the torque multiplication, the more str, the harder it will hit the tires. You want to go as high as possible without the car boiling the tires, 2.5 is good for the street and strip with those gears. Most of our sponsors carry trans coolers and trans go shift kits ( I think my kit was $100 and the cooler was $50), you can also find them in any Jeg's or Summit catalogue. If you want a drag radial that can handle rain stick with a Nitto 555R (don't expect to do 80mph in the rain with them). Depending on how hard you run them you can get 10-15K miles out of them or you can beat on them like me and get 50-60 passes out of them. They are practicly throw away tires at about $160 a peice. A lid is a must, the LS6 intakes do make alittle more power on a bolt on car but I would wait to get one. Most of our sponsors are great but I would highly reccommend checking out Thunder Racing, TByrne Motorsports, TSP, & Speed Inc.

On the suspension I would start with springs, shocks, LCAs and PHB (depending if you lower the car). Along with a stall, minor bolt ons, and a good tire the car should be in the 12s no problem. I forgot to mention the QA1 front are coil overs so you can adjust your front ride height.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok i got it all planned out. My first mods, i will buy the 3600 stall, trans go kit, LID (what kind and price) and cooler all at once and get it installed. Than next get the QA1's(price and is this all i need for shocks/springs) and LCAs (whats that and cost) and PHB (same). Lastly im going to get some C6's and put some radials o nthe stockers. Sounds like a plan? Should be a blast. Than of course will be the 150 shot after. Thanks a ton GM MUscle and all you guys. Your so patient. I know a lot more now and learned more now than i did all year at school! If you can wrap up those final few suspension quesitons i should be good. My rear end should be good before i spray with no prob? Ill worry about that when i buy nitrous if thats the deal. Thanks again!

Ole1830

Sorry I threw a wrench in your plan without explaining more earlier. I had to go back to work.

A wise man once told me this, which is somewhat relevant here:

(no disrespect intended to the hardcore N2O guys here).

Sounds like you made the right decision buddy. Take it easy and keep us updated.

Matt

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Oh yea, i decided the stall was best bet after hearing what it was. I had no idea what a stall was until a few hours ago and now i no what they do and all. Got to get the darn car now. I have 11k set for one. Looking for 98 or newer ls1 with under 60 k miles, leather, t-tops, A4. I have a buddys girlsfriends dad that has a 99 z28, red with t-tops and black leather. 36 k miles and was thinking of selling in my range so now i just gotta wait for hi mto decide to sell it. My dads a used car dealer so he goes to auctions every week. I went last week but they were all 01s and 02s for 16-20k. One will come around to me here soon real quick. As soon as i get the car the loudmouth 2 is going to be ordered, than all the stall stuff and LID. than suspension once i figure out what i need, than some c6 and radials on the stockers and than hit the track.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Looked on spohn.net and found the QA1 set up fornt and rear for $700 and some Lower Control arms for about 200 ish. Are those the right shocks? So i can set those to sit really low for cruising or set up it with stiffer rear/ etc etc for the track or whatever i want? Thats pretty neat. I will only lower it that way. Let me know if this is right.....

Ole1830

Superman-

I'm still learning when it comes to suspensions. All i have that isn't stock are the Madman LCA's. Until I got the heads and cam done recently, I could hook fairly well on the street on nittos (even on a 100 shot if the sun was out and it was over 75 degrees).

I have an adjustable torque arm on order, but don't expect it anyday soon.

They have lots of good writeups in the suspension forum if you're reasearching rear suspension setups. Just take your time, ask alot of questions and do it right the first time so you don't have to do it again.

Matt

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok thanks. GM, let me know if those are the right shocks and which LCA's are good? Thank you.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

GM, are these the right shocks. I found at Speed inc, the full set of QA1s gen f for like 680 and the r series set for like 710. Which ones and also which LCA's? Thanks. Know of any other good speed shops a little closer to me? Im in south east Michigan and Speed Inc would be about 5 hour drive for me. They also have Vigilante stalls, they have a 3600-3800 one for 700. That a good one or should i go with a Yank? Thanks

F-bodyLuv

Hey fellas im also very new to the whole nitrous deal. Im plannin on a 125 shot with the only other mods being LT pacesetter headers and true duals. An NX dry kit is mostly what ill be looking for.

Question though. Isnt a stall converter for a daily driver kind of harsh? i mean n20 you can turn on and off but a stall is permanent right?

Ole1830

F-bodyLuv. You'll get used to a 3500ish converter really quick (read probably less than a week) and think the car should come that way from the factory.

At least those were my opinions when I got my converter.

Matt

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

Yep, your looking at the right shocks. The "R" series fronts have a fixed compresion. This will allow you to run the fronts at 1-2 on the street without the car bouncing all over the place. However, it's said that on the street the "R"s will need to be rebuilt more often. I have about 12,000 miles on mine and there have been no signs of major wear or leaking yet. The "F"s are a 50/50 shock so you would have to run them at atleast 6 on the street for the car to handle ok, they do work well in the back though. I would take a Yank over a Vig. Vigilantes have been know to stall higher than their rated rpm, if your 3600-3,800 stall is stalling close to 4000, that's not the best for a nitrous car because if you go to high with stall rpm in a nitrous car it will slip at the top of the track. This is know as blowing or spraying through the converter. You'll find with most converters that the nitrous will actually raise the stall rpm by alot. If you want spend the extra money and do a converter just once look at the Pro Yank 3600 Extreme. It's about $850 but it's the last converter you'll ever buy with a nitrous car. It's specificly designed for nitrous use and I hear that it's very efficient on the spray. I've also heard of a few guys picking up about .2-.3 going from a regular Yank or Vig to this.

With the LCAs and everything, it depends how far you want to take the car. If you want the lightest you can buy, PM BADZ. He makes aluminium double rod end LCAs and PHBs. They are very reasonably priced and his rod ends are guranteed to not make noise but I would expect alittle more road noise and vibration since there is no give to a rod end. When I weighed mine each LCA came in at about 1.5lbs. If you want something that will not make noise get ones with poly bushings, BMR, LGM, Spohn, and UMI all make good ones.

How close are you to Dearborn Heights, MI? Livernois Motorsports is there and they are a top notch shop. I would shop around and mail order everything. The suspension work is no big deal to do with basic tools so if you can just do that yourself if you can. Any good transmission shop can do the converter install.

BTW: Ole is right about the feel of the verters. They can be alittle loose but you get used of it quick. A higher STR converter will also feel tighter on the street, another reason why I suggest 2.5-2.7s with 2.73s-3.23s and drag radials.

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

GM-how is the gas mialge affected by a 3500-3600 stall? seems that if you keep all that torque untill 3500rpm, then your mpg will take a ****, any feedback is apperciated, thanks