Hello all. I am getting an LS1 f-body here real soon. It will be practically all stock. I will be adding the ram air hood and kit and the slp loudmouth exhaust. I am also wanting a lot of power but dont want to spend the thousands on engine parts and labor to get motor power. I was jsut thinking of nitrous. What is the best set up i can get for the ls1 without having to worry at all about it harming the engine. I wont spray much, maybe at the track, dyno, etc. Is this ahrd to install, hard on motor. If someone could jsut take 5 mins and give me a little info o nit and what a fast, safe set up would be o nthe stock ls1, that would be great. Thanks a lot.

 

If you want a hassle free set up that you really don't have to worry about much, go with the NOS 5177. It's a dry kit (sprays before the MAF and the computer adds fuel), pretty much no hassle. Now most of us say we never plan to take are cars very far as far as power goes but that usually changes quick. If you want a kit you can grow with, go with a wet kit from either NX or TNT. I've always felt wet kits are mainly the way to go but they do require alittle more maitnance. Since your relying on a solenoid for fuel you'll want to test it every month or two just to be positive it's working. Bottle pressure can also be more of a factor with a wet kit. If you spray a dry shot at less than 800psi it won't hit hard and make a ton of power but it will run clean, do that with a wet shot and the car will fall on it's face from all the extra fuel.

Both kits are easy to install and maintain. Just do your homework and you'll be good to go. Firgure about $800-$1200 for a really nice complete set up. Besides a kit you'll want a window switch (gives you an rpm window to turn the nitrous on and off and ensures that you won't kill the motor if you hit the rev limiter), bottle heater, some NGk TR-6 plugs, a purge, and any other small accessories you may find that will work well for you.

As far as the LS1 holding up, I've been going through more than 15lbs a week for over 3 seasons and the motor is fine. first season was a 125 shot, since then it has been a 150-200 shot.

 

I learned a shitload from the FAQ' thread highlighted at the top of this section , you should check it out

 

GM Muscle- can you specify what type of maintainance i would need to do on a dry kit?

 

Wow Andrew your car is awesome. I am just curious which type of system to get. The car is an auto not a M6. I read that FAQ and it was a big help. Now with the window switch, will that work with an auto well? I just want to be very careful not to harm the motor at all so i want a very safe set up, but would like to get close to 450 hp when using after installing exhaust (still debating, prolly loudmouth), ls6 intake, Lid and other minor bolt ons. I dont think ill go into headers or a cam. Jsut little bolt ons and nitrous. Could i safely get to 450 with that or no? Could you please post the set up that you think would best suit my needs? Safety of engine is first priority. Thanks a lot.

 

yeah the window switch works with a automatic but I remember reading somthing at www.nitrousexpress.com that its not needed on the automatic

 

as far as ive heard its not for your motor's sake, its your tranny's. the primary service is not to spray through the shift, helping to extend the tranny's life.

 

o ok, thanks. Nice to know my motor will be safer and i am controlling how my tranny will do by when to spray. Any input o nthe best set up? I would like to be in the 11's with some minor bolt ons as stated above and some suspension stuff which i still need to read about. Also got to look into lightening up a bit. Thanks. If i lighten up a bit, not major but a little, get soem suspension goodies and bolt ons, than with nitrous i would like to be in mid-low 11's if possible. Thanks

 

i plan on doing lid/lm exhaust and 125 dry shot with some street slicks i should be close and if not a 3500 stall and a tune

 

Hennytime: If it's a 5177 their is not much as far as maintenance. Their are two nitrous noids in line so it's almost impossible for the motor to get hurt from a stuck noid. With the 5177 I would rebuild the noids every couple of years, but other than just checking for general leaks and the overal condition of the system every now and then there is not much to it. If your running only 1 nitrous noid I would rebuild it once a year and run a good nitrous filter.

Superman09, sounds like you have plans to go pretty quick. I would highly reccomend a wet kit. You'll want to spray a 150 or so for low 11s and it's alot easier to get their with a wet kit. A 150 shot and bolt ons it is relativley safe (with the correct set up) to an extent but things can always happen. As far as saftey items you'll want a Window switch, fuel pressure saftey switch, an intank fuel pump (if you plan to spray more than 100 shot), a good nitrous filter, NGK TR-6 plugs, and if you have the money pick up a wide band sensor to help you tune your A/F ratio. My Innovate LM-1 wideband is one of the best purchases I've made for the car, they are $350. If you don't buy a wideband atleast get on a dyno with one to see where your A/F ratio is at. A bottle heater is also a must for a wet kit. As far as window switch settings, you'll want to spray from a minimum of 3,000rpm to a max of about 200rpm before the rev limiter, if you don't want to spray through the shifts set it 200rpm before the shift (5,800rpm).

I don't think 450rwhp is to much to ask at all with minor boltons & nitrous but those stock exhaust manifolds, cats, and y-pipe will hold you back. If you do the headers, bolt ons, converter, and a 150 shot you'll be mid-low 11s for sure if the car can cut a half decent 60' (atleast 1.80s). I'm hoping for about 575rwhp with my new cam.

BTW: I run a TNT kit.

 

i plan on getting a col fusion kit from a guy on the boards later this summer which uses one noid, but what do you mean by 'rebuilding' it, do you mean just getting a new one and replace the older? im going to be going wit ha dry 100shot looking for about 400rwhp and low 12's or high 11's with bigger and better stuff still to come

 

The solenoids are rebuildable and they do make rebuild kits for them. The only real thing that seems to go wrong with nitrous solenoids is they can get trash stuck in them and they stick open. It litterally takes a spec to hang the seal on the piston open. If you run a good filter that should not be an issue and your probrably fine not rebuilding them. I do it once a season just for the peice of mind that they are fresh but I've known people that have run them for a few years with no issues at all. Fuel solenoids are alittle different though, the piston seals can swell causing the noid not to open, and I have seen one where the seal was starting to break down.

 

do these filters come with the basic kit or do i need to buy them separetely

 

Hello, ok thanks a ton for the info. I am thinking of a 125 shot to get me used to it. Are there adjustable kits so if i want to bump up later to a 150 shot, will i have to buy a complete new set up? Also for the exhaust than... Should i ditch the idea of the loudmouth? What than would you sggest for exhaust for a very loud sounding that will help the nitrous performance. With this window switch, will it spray for me in the settings i give it, than shut off 200 rpm before the shift and start back up 3000 rpm into the next? I am a little confused on how that works. I was trying to look at the nitrous express systems but its all jiberish to me at this time. Is there any companys to stay away from or is there a "best" brand? I am a little skeptical of the vehicles safety of the 150 wet shot so i think ill back down to 125 to start off. Do you have AOL IM by anychance so i can ask a few questons on there about your set up? Thanks

 

Hennytime, most basic kits don't have a filter they are another $40-60. The more expensive kits do come with them.

Superman09, all good LS1 specific kits are complelty adjustable from about a 75 shot to a 200+. It's as simple as a jet change. The best LS1 specific wet kits are from NX and TNT, and they both have kickass customer support to back up their products. If you set your window switch from say 3,000-5,800rpm it will always spray in that range as long as the master arm switch is on, and your at WOT. So if it shuts off for the shift it will kick back in right after the shift. I used to have a loudmounth myself. It's a nice exhaust for the money but if you go with headers get the Loudmouth 2. It uses a different muffler that doesn't get all raspy when you put headers on the car. I don't have IM but feel free to PM on this board anyime you want.

 

15 Lbs. a week? That's awesome.

Josh

 

If I go to the track it's usually more. I have a refill station here at the house so what I sell helps pay for my own. It's kind of like a drug habbit I guess.

 

Hey GM, i have a few questions. Which overall set up would you suggest for me. I think a 125 shot would be best. Which company and brand. Can you also tell me ALL the stuff i would need to complete it FULLY to be safe using it and which brand sof those would be ebst. If you could take a few minutes that would be great. Also i will probably go Loudmouth 2 for exhaust. What true duals to you have and is it a big power advantage over the loudmouth 2. thanks

 

If you plan to spend the money for a really nice kit go with either the NX MAF kit, or the TNT power ring set up. Both are just as good and it pretty much just comes down to prefferance and layout. You should also consider a universal NX 75-150 wet kit, it's cheaper but you'll acheave(sp?) the same results. Off the top of my head I'll make a quick list of what you'll want.

The kit itself
Window Switch
Fuel pressure saftey switch (I believe the MAF & Power Ring kits come with those)
A good filter (NX, TNT, or NOS)
NGK TR-6 plugs (gapped about .035)
Bottle Heater (NX, TNT, Dyno Tune, & 860 Performace makes a neat heated bracket)
Purge (they all do the same thing so just shop around for a bargain)
Bottle blanket (only if you mount the bottle in direct sunlight)
And I would really consider an intank pump even though it's not totally nessesary on a bolt on 125 shot car.

Optional items:
remote bottle opener
remote pressure gauge (this is a must if you can't see the bottle from your seat)
NX switch panel with factory looking switches
Wide Band A/F ratio meter.

If you contact Nitro Dave he can set you up with a package that gives you exactly what you want.

As far as the exhaust, my duals are a custom homemade set up. You probrably wouldn't see much more peak HP but you should pick up a good amount of HP and TQ under the curve. You will need headers to run true duals. If your intrested, TSP makes an alright set up, but if your worried about ground clearance talk to Lane of Lanes Wheels (not a sponsor). He is the only guy that can make a killer set of mail order duals. I believe his prices start at about $650.

 

Ok well i dont really plan on headers right away so i think ill start with the loudmouth 2. Im going to look into those kits. Are the NX MAF and TNT kit also universal for shots like the 75-150 shot one? Can i get all those products below from NX or TNT or do i have to shop different places for stuff. What will this entire set up cost me roughly. Not including exhaust. Thanks a bunch. Univseral shot seems cool. I will start with 100 or 125 but i know i will want to bump up i nthe future. Is there any other mods i need to stay away from when running nitrous with? Thanks