Dry nozzle placement
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Pics of the lid and nozzle placement Seems to be closer than most, since with the shark nozzle there is a 90* turn at the end of nozzle forcing it right into the MAF. Thought about turning the nozzle to face forward and let the airflow pull the dry back, or mounting to the side of the lid with the tip cutoff so there is no 90*.
Yea, with that type nozzle you get a more concentrated flow and being that close is likely a problem. going in from side with a straight shot and letting airflow turn the mix seems to be about the best way in my opinion. You'll get a more uniform temp across the maf wire and thus a better more consistant a/f ratio. Keep at it, you'll figure it out and then you can come fix my clutch for me. 
Robert
Robert
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I'd love to swap the clutch with ya, but something about not being in Tacoma anymore is a PITA. Wish I was back there actually. I am looking at cutting the nozzle today, refitting it and calling it good. I looked at the logs from last night, and boy, I never seen a -40 temp, -40 LTFT, 765.5 IPW, FTC went from 22, 15 then 13, -65 advance, and some other ****. Totally caught me off guard, guess I need to keep from freezing the thing. Will give it a go. The lid on there now is a testing lid, once the location is sorted out will order a new SLP lid (only SLP part that will be on the car!). I wanted an MTI or TSP clear lid, but its half n half on fitting from what I hear.
Charlie
Charlie
Those clear lids are really trick for dry shots. You can see in real time what your shot is doing. I have seen this and wish I had that option when doing custom mounts. Actually it was a nozzle style like yours and he had it mounted perendicular to the intake hose with it turned towards the maf, so it shot out at a 90* them mixed with air and at same time turned into the maf, if that makes sense.
I prob told you this allready, but for an example on a properly running dry. My friends vette ran a 12.6 n/a and with a 96rwhp (approx) he knocked off a 11.48 first try, and that was with stock tune, injectors, timing and plugs and no ws or heater or logging etc. so, you'll see the gains you expect once the bugs are worked out.
Robert
I prob told you this allready, but for an example on a properly running dry. My friends vette ran a 12.6 n/a and with a 96rwhp (approx) he knocked off a 11.48 first try, and that was with stock tune, injectors, timing and plugs and no ws or heater or logging etc. so, you'll see the gains you expect once the bugs are worked out.
Robert
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Yep, going back tonight to see whats up. I shortened the Sharkie, right after the threads, dremel meets nozzle....end result, a nice clean double barrell looking discharge, shooting from the pass side discharging towards the drvrs side, but I am thinking unlike the FIPK, it should stay in the lid and be drawn into the MAF. *fingers crossed*. Now I am considering getting two 5177's dual nozzles each (not sure if they come with one nozzle or two), seems so much easier than all this prototyping BS. If only I had stuck with my NX EFI Wet Kit.
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Well, luck is not in it for me. Things I have noted from tonight:
1) Spraying with a cutoff shark nozzle, inserted from the side, it sprays a very tight pattern all the way to other side of the Lid. Freezes the air filter. The pattern just seems too tight, not sure the airflow can pull it enough?
2) I really need to retune. I never performed the VE tuning since my LTFTs were always -1.6 to -6.8 in almost every trim/cell/MAP etc. Every log before was FTC 22 @ 100% TPS. Now, I switch from FTC 15, 13 or 22 depending I guess on how + my LTFTs are. I swapped injectors, and changed from FIPK back to a lid and the trims are jacked! I think the Injectors messed it more than the lid, but too late to speculate now. I noted this while watching one run the O2's are 900+/- 20 and the next run they jumped to 990+/-10 , followed by another run of 820+/-30. WTF. So, looking at the corresponding LTFTs and FTC I assume the AFR doesnt want to stabilize and look into FTC 22 like it used because the VE is jacked.
Does the 5177 nozzles make a tight pattern or more like a roundish clouding pattern? Seems IIRC the 5177 makes a more circular cloudish pattern, which would help tremondously with intaking the N20.
Charlie
1) Spraying with a cutoff shark nozzle, inserted from the side, it sprays a very tight pattern all the way to other side of the Lid. Freezes the air filter. The pattern just seems too tight, not sure the airflow can pull it enough?
2) I really need to retune. I never performed the VE tuning since my LTFTs were always -1.6 to -6.8 in almost every trim/cell/MAP etc. Every log before was FTC 22 @ 100% TPS. Now, I switch from FTC 15, 13 or 22 depending I guess on how + my LTFTs are. I swapped injectors, and changed from FIPK back to a lid and the trims are jacked! I think the Injectors messed it more than the lid, but too late to speculate now. I noted this while watching one run the O2's are 900+/- 20 and the next run they jumped to 990+/-10 , followed by another run of 820+/-30. WTF. So, looking at the corresponding LTFTs and FTC I assume the AFR doesnt want to stabilize and look into FTC 22 like it used because the VE is jacked.
Does the 5177 nozzles make a tight pattern or more like a roundish clouding pattern? Seems IIRC the 5177 makes a more circular cloudish pattern, which would help tremondously with intaking the N20.
Charlie
If the LTFT are negative, meaning a rich condition and pulling fuel at part throttle, they are dropped at wot and have nothing to do with wot power enrichment. When ltft are positive, meaning lean and adding fuel at part throttle, they freeze where they are at when going wot and are added to your wot PE multiplier. So, say they are +7, that's a 7% correction factor in that cell to counter a lean condition and this will be added on top of your PE. Actually being positive can be a tuning aid when using a dry hit. This is why it's usually rec that you set ltft slightly negative, take them out of picture at wot. I don't think neg 6 is bad at all, as the correction the comp can make is 25% ether way, and rec is try to keep under ten as day to day air changes will add or subtract from this. So, you'll never ever have ltft zeroed out.
yes the 5177 nozzles give a wide plum like shot. Looks kinda like a purge cloud. Nozzle is wide open allmost as big as a hose, so pattern spreads wide quickly. I am sure the egineers testing found the same thing you are finding. Drill out the shark?
Robert
yes the 5177 nozzles give a wide plum like shot. Looks kinda like a purge cloud. Nozzle is wide open allmost as big as a hose, so pattern spreads wide quickly. I am sure the egineers testing found the same thing you are finding. Drill out the shark?
Robert
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Already started drilling it, thinking the same thing. The LTFTs are now Positive, which is part of the problem I am dealing with. PE locks at sometimes a lower LTFT or + LTFT and throws the FTC and Fueling off.
Breaking down......must get dry working right....
Breaking down......must get dry working right....
Cat, I am sure you know this, but for those following along. Do you have a wide band? Using the o2s is not very accurate. They are calibrated for 14.7:1 a/f ratio and the farther you get away from this the more erratic/inaccurate they become. I have found that when looking at the narrow band o2s for n2o tuning it's kind of a guessing game as your looking at a wide variation in your posted 820 to 990 which on the same day your ltft being positive will skew your a/f a bit, but will be more stable with less variation. you really need a Wide band to know for sure which way to go/look next, imo. You may be closer than you think? With that said, your ltft probably should be addressed for optimum power. (mine are positive, but I like a little rich for the safety factor at wot, and it hasn't hurt my n/a times, and I use a LM1 wb).
Robert
Robert
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Yep, I just havent hooked the new sensor back in yet. The difference in the LTFTs that kind of bothered me was the difference b/w the B1 and B2, having so much difference and the wideband wont be able to pick that difference up since it's only plugged into one side. Normally my LTFT's are pretty close to eachother, and WOT were always locked at 0 in FTC 22. Now they lock at xx.xx and sometimes FTC 22, 15, or 13. Odd. Will finish drilling the nozzle hopefully today and see whats up.
