Wet kit fuel line question
07-31-2005, 01:42 PM
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Wet kit fuel line question I was hooking my wet kit up and had a few questions bout the fuel part. I put a t in my fuel line so i could tap into my fuel. From there what type of line should i use to hook it up to the fuel solenoid. I bought the kit used so it came with a braded line from the solenoid and had a little connector piece to hook up to a rubber fuel line that goes to the t. The problem with that is that where the braided line to the rubber fuel meet leaks a little, even when clamped down. Make long problem short, what kind of line should i use to connect to the fuel solenoid to the t. Please save me from 
. Thanks icen
. Thanks icen 
07-31-2005, 01:49 PM
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u should ditch the T, and use the SS line or buy another one and screw it right onto the shrader valve on the tip of the drivers side fuel rail. this way there wont be any half assed connections which could leak.
07-31-2005, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JustAnIlluzion
u should ditch the T, and use the SS line or buy another one and screw it right onto the shrader valve on the tip of the drivers side fuel rail. this way there wont be any half assed connections which could leak.
07-31-2005, 03:34 PM
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look on the fuel rail for the test port. Most late model cars will have them. It looks like a valve stem. Just pull the core out and just screw the stainless line onto that port.
07-31-2005, 03:54 PM
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Well using a rubber line and rad clamp aint going to work either. T's are not that great, a Y fitting is prefered as it keeps the volume @ pressure up. Remove the shrader valve and screw the -4 fitting onto the test port line, which for the record is located on the drivers side, opposite the TB, about 8inches down from the valve cover, and located directly rearward of the PCM. It has green cap *this is on a 2004 TB EXT w/ I-6*, ya I have one. It is a normal -4 fitting so it should be easy. On the 5.3L it is on the end of the rail, like the F&Y Body. Not sure of the fuel pressure on the I-6 but I am guessing it will be the same 58psi so to minimize the change over of parts from 5.3 to I-6. Good luck.
07-31-2005, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by icen
im doin this on a trailblazer, so i dont think that would work. Maybe im wrong.
07-31-2005, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Well using a rubber line and rad clamp aint going to work either. T's are not that great, a Y fitting is prefered as it keeps the volume @ pressure up. Remove the shrader valve and screw the -4 fitting onto the test port line, which for the record is located on the drivers side, opposite the TB, about 8inches down from the valve cover, and located directly rearward of the PCM. It has green cap *this is on a 2004 TB EXT w/ I-6*, ya I have one. It is a normal -4 fitting so it should be easy. On the 5.3L it is on the end of the rail, like the F&Y Body. Not sure of the fuel pressure on the I-6 but I am guessing it will be the same 58psi so to minimize the change over of parts from 5.3 to I-6. Good luck.
i see the green cap. So if i just screw in the fitting and then run a line to the fuel noid itll work. Not to sound like a newb, but the valve is just to check fuel pressure correct. Are there any negative effects if i do it his way.
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08-01-2005, 02:11 PM
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To be repetitive, yes that is the way to do it.
But you need to take out the needle in the center of the schrader! REAL IMPORTANT STEP!!!!
IMPORTASNT
But you need to take out the needle in the center of the schrader! REAL IMPORTANT STEP!!!!
IMPORTASNT
Originally Posted by icen
i see the green cap. So if i just screw in the fitting and then run a line to the fuel noid itll work. Not to sound like a newb, but the valve is just to check fuel pressure correct. Are there any negative effects if i do it his way.
08-02-2005, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
In addition, the sharder they are talking about is just like the tire valve stem core. Just use an automotive core remover from any auto parts house.
Robert
Robert
08-02-2005, 12:40 AM
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yes, you can only run up to about a 175/200 shot...not totally sure, havent sprayed the wifes ride yet. But, taking fuel from the injectors/rail may lean out the injectors, like on the LS1, the drvr side always goes lean before the pass side. But I am sure there is no reason to spray that large on a fricken half yatch.
08-02-2005, 10:56 AM
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Yep, remove green cap, (loosen gas tank cap to relieve pressure) remove the schrader valve, being careful to not spill gas on engine parts or face, I use locktite thread sealer on the -4 line to fuel rail line, tighten carefully to not twist the line (since its not a rail like the LS1 it is a little more fragile).
I am very interested to hear how the I-6 TB likes the juice. A 275hp and 275tq SUV should be pretty fun with a little something extra.
I am very interested to hear how the I-6 TB likes the juice. A 275hp and 275tq SUV should be pretty fun with a little something extra.
08-02-2005, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Yep, remove green cap, (loosen gas tank cap to relieve pressure) remove the schrader valve, being careful to not spill gas on engine parts or face, I use locktite thread sealer on the -4 line to fuel rail line, tighten carefully to not twist the line (since its not a rail like the LS1 it is a little more fragile).
I am very interested to hear how the I-6 TB likes the juice. A 275hp and 275tq SUV should be pretty fun with a little something extra.
I am very interested to hear how the I-6 TB likes the juice. A 275hp and 275tq SUV should be pretty fun with a little something extra.
08-02-2005, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Without tuning, not sure whats available my wifes taps out the Rev Limiter at 99mph (on the speedo so could be 100). Good luck.
really, ive never hit the rev limiter. I thought all trailblazer/envoys were cut off by the governor. Not sure bout exts though. I can hit 109 then the governor kicks in and drops rpms. The whole tuning situation sucks, westers finally released there tune for the 02 I6. Im hoping to get megasquirt 2 to tune.
