Nitrous on an auto
Yep, of course it works with autos.
Get a window switch (and all the other safety gear !) so you don't spray through the shifts, or your transmission may or may not stay around for the party.
You should also use a throttle switch as you mentioned (TPS), a manual arming switch and the window switch. Some people also run a fuel pressure safety switch (FPSS) as well, to disarm when fuel pressure drops below a certain level.
Plenty of information on this kind of stuff can be found in "search".
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
Get a window switch (and all the other safety gear !) so you don't spray through the shifts, or your transmission may or may not stay around for the party.
You should also use a throttle switch as you mentioned (TPS), a manual arming switch and the window switch. Some people also run a fuel pressure safety switch (FPSS) as well, to disarm when fuel pressure drops below a certain level.
Plenty of information on this kind of stuff can be found in "search".
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
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Can a few people expand on this?
How do you launch? Stall it up or flash the converter from idle? Which ever way you launch how and when do you bring in the shot?
For example: I am gearing up for my first Nitrous install and I am thinking about launching from idle with a PY3600 yank. Then using a window switch to hit the shot, 100 or 150, at 3000 RPM. When the car gets to 3000 RPM I will already be at full throttle.
Is this a good way to do it or is there a better way?
How do you launch? Stall it up or flash the converter from idle? Which ever way you launch how and when do you bring in the shot?
For example: I am gearing up for my first Nitrous install and I am thinking about launching from idle with a PY3600 yank. Then using a window switch to hit the shot, 100 or 150, at 3000 RPM. When the car gets to 3000 RPM I will already be at full throttle.
Is this a good way to do it or is there a better way?
my MSD window switch does all the work. i stage, activate the nitrous system (arming). the msd window switch activates at 4000 and shuts off at 6600 rpms. i have a yank 4000 stall and shift at 6800 rpms. it works very nicely. i spray out of the hole and go low 1.5 on radial tires.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
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Ok so you start to spray just as you reach stall speed off the line but...
Using the window, you turn the system off to shift and bring it back in after each shift???
This is still pretty new to me. Why does it need to be done this way?
Can a Rossler or FLP built A4 spray through the shift?
Using the window, you turn the system off to shift and bring it back in after each shift???
This is still pretty new to me. Why does it need to be done this way?
Can a Rossler or FLP built A4 spray through the shift?
No what the deal is , is that you want the window switch to do all of the work for you. All you do is set it up to activate the nitrous at whatever RPM you preset it to. Same goes for deactivation of the nitrous. It is called a window switch not because it has to do with the window. What it means is that the rpms that you set are the window of activation.
Essentially all you would do is arm the nitrous with a switch inside the car , then when you would floor the car, and @ WOT it would activate a switch from your nitrous system usually set up on the throttle body. The switch on your nitrous system will not actually turn it on the nitrous untill the window switch alows it to. (again based on what you pre program the rpms at.)
Just think of all of this like a circut that turns on a light bulb. When you flip the breaker switch on the side of your house , it doesnt turn on the light bulb unless you have the switch on the wall turned on . In this case the switch on the wall would be your MSD window switch.
BTW dont chance it , get a window switch, people that dont usually screw up sooner or later. The guys that call it quits after that are the ones that give nitrous a bad name.
Just read up a bit on it. And research your kit your gonna get.
Essentially all you would do is arm the nitrous with a switch inside the car , then when you would floor the car, and @ WOT it would activate a switch from your nitrous system usually set up on the throttle body. The switch on your nitrous system will not actually turn it on the nitrous untill the window switch alows it to. (again based on what you pre program the rpms at.)
Just think of all of this like a circut that turns on a light bulb. When you flip the breaker switch on the side of your house , it doesnt turn on the light bulb unless you have the switch on the wall turned on . In this case the switch on the wall would be your MSD window switch.
BTW dont chance it , get a window switch, people that dont usually screw up sooner or later. The guys that call it quits after that are the ones that give nitrous a bad name.
Just read up a bit on it. And research your kit your gonna get.
Last edited by 97LT1; Sep 17, 2005 at 07:26 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 109
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Ok, thanks for the help. I get the function of the window switch. What I am really wanting to understand though is why gator is set up the way he is.
His window is from 4000 to 6600 RPM. His converter stalls at 4000 and he shifts his A4 at 6800. From what he told me I deduced the following.
1.) He launches and at 4000 RPM he hits max stall, at the same time this happens his window opens at 4000 RPM so the NO2 starts to flow.
2.) He climbs up the RPM range in 1st gear until he hits 6600 RPM. Still in 1st the NO2 shuts off because the window closes. The RPM's continue to climb when at 6800 RPM the A4 shifts into second.
3.) As a result of the shift drop the RPM's come down and the window opens again. Now in 2nd gear the NO2 comes on again and the process repeat itself through 3rd gear.
What I really want to know is why shut off the NO2 just before you shift? I can understand that a stock A4 could not handle such a load for very many runs. But can a built up 4L60-e from someone like Rossler or FLP handle it?
What is the reasoning behind doing it the way gator has done it?
His window is from 4000 to 6600 RPM. His converter stalls at 4000 and he shifts his A4 at 6800. From what he told me I deduced the following.
1.) He launches and at 4000 RPM he hits max stall, at the same time this happens his window opens at 4000 RPM so the NO2 starts to flow.
2.) He climbs up the RPM range in 1st gear until he hits 6600 RPM. Still in 1st the NO2 shuts off because the window closes. The RPM's continue to climb when at 6800 RPM the A4 shifts into second.
3.) As a result of the shift drop the RPM's come down and the window opens again. Now in 2nd gear the NO2 comes on again and the process repeat itself through 3rd gear.
What I really want to know is why shut off the NO2 just before you shift? I can understand that a stock A4 could not handle such a load for very many runs. But can a built up 4L60-e from someone like Rossler or FLP handle it?
What is the reasoning behind doing it the way gator has done it?
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yes you have it right. the reason why we dont spray b/w the shifts is it eats up the tranny. even a "built" 4L60e wont last long spraying b/w the shifts. same goes for a manual tranny too. the clutch cant take it.
if you want go for it. but your tranny wont last. also the reduction in et and gain in mph is so small it is inconsequential to me.
and think of the window switch as an activation and deactivation. and the window switch shuts off or deactivates the nitrous system on my car at say 6600 rpms, this doesnt mean the nitrous instantly stops coming into the motor. it takes a few microseconds so IMO the nitrous probably stops at closer to 6700-6725 rpms because there is still some delay. then the car shifts at 6800 rpms.
it works out well. on my combo i dont feel any loss of the 'hit' from the nitrous by stoping or deactivating the nitrous before the shift.
if you want go for it. but your tranny wont last. also the reduction in et and gain in mph is so small it is inconsequential to me.
and think of the window switch as an activation and deactivation. and the window switch shuts off or deactivates the nitrous system on my car at say 6600 rpms, this doesnt mean the nitrous instantly stops coming into the motor. it takes a few microseconds so IMO the nitrous probably stops at closer to 6700-6725 rpms because there is still some delay. then the car shifts at 6800 rpms.
it works out well. on my combo i dont feel any loss of the 'hit' from the nitrous by stoping or deactivating the nitrous before the shift.
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