01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

When I tested everything prior to hooking it to the car, everything seemed to work fine. The nitrous and fuel were both working, the purge was working, but when I took it for a test run the car would spit, sputter, kinda bog and not run right at all. I know that I did have a couple things working against me...1) I still have the stock spark plugs in ( I have TR6s, just not in yet) 2) Bottle pressure was at about 850. But it doesn't seem like this is the problem. It almost seems as if the car is getting too much fuel. It's the NX wet kit, and per the book, 75 shot = 41 jet Nitrous, 22 jet Fuel which is what I was running. What do you think I did wrong?

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Start buy changing the plugs.Then get the bottle pressure up to 1050 psi.Then try it.If there is still a problem let me know.Ill help you sort it out.
Dave

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! Do you think that this could really be the problem? I'll do that and let you know though.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

yes its probley the problem.Fisrt the system opperates according to bottle pressure.Second the stock platnum plugs will not hold up to the nitrous.
Dave

marcus769

What kind of temp must the bottle sustain to keep the temp over 1,000 psi?

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

Do you think that I need to retard the timing 2 degrees?

NitrousDirect

iTrader: (1)

Really sounds like you are rich, make sure the nitrous solenoid is firing, make sure you have the corrects jets and they are not reversed your bottle pressure wouldn't have that effect.

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to double check the jets, but they should be correct. But yeah, that's what I was thinking, too much fuel. When I have the nozzel out, nitrous is spraying, how else would I check it?

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

I can't figure out what's going wrong. I'm wondering if my fuel noid is bad. When it's activated it pulsates. It's shooting fuel but in a pulsating manner. Does this mean it's bad or is this how it's suppose to work? I let out all the old nitrous, had the bottle filled completely. The bottle pressure was at about 950. After a couple purges it was a little over 900 when I sprayed it again. I replaced the stock spark plugs that were gapped at 60 and put in the TR6s gapped at 35. I made sure the rpms were over 3000. The car didn't feel as bad as it did the first time I tried it but still sputtered and kinda bogged. It seems like the car is getting too much fuel and getting choked up. What should I do now?

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Ok,what jets are you using?
Are you using a fuel pressure safety switch?
You said the fuel was sputtering? was the car running when you test fired it?
Is the ground for the solenoids good?
How is the bottle positioned?
Where is the nozzle?
Dave

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I'm using 41 jet for Nitrous and 22 for fuel. (Double checked it)
Yes, I'm using a fuel pressure safety switch. I had the nitrous off, the car running and the fuel line out of the nozzel.
Ground is good.
Bottle is mounted in between rear seats at about a 45 degree angle
Nozzel is in the bellows right before the throttle body.
Thanks Dave

NitrousDirect

iTrader: (1)

So you're saying that with the car on, nitrous bottle closed, fuel line unattached from the nozzle that when you activate the solenoid you're seeing sputtering and inconsistent fuel coming out of the nozzle almost pulsed?

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

Some quick common sense questions:
Have you changed your fuel filter lately?
What is your fuel pressure off the rail?
Did you take out the schraeder valve?
Is the solenoid(s) in the correct position, i.e.: in> out> ?
Was the -AN fuel supply line new or used? If used, check for debris, dirt, etc.

check that...

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

It's not sputtering or inconsistent, but yes, pulsed but at a fast rate.

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

Have not changed the fuel filter lately, probably the stock filter. Fuel pressure off the rail, not sure. Yes, took the schraeder valve out. Solenoids are in the correct position. The kit is used, and yes I need to check for debris, dirt, etc. that I haven't done since I originally put it on.

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

I answered the questions, now what?

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

OK lets check the fuel pressure safety switch now.These things sometimes need adjusting.There is a plug in the end of the switch.Under that plug there is a alan head screw.Make sure the nitrous is turned off.Take and hold the fuel line from the solenoid into a can.Crank the car.Bring the RPMs up if you have a window switch or lower the rpm range on the window switch.Then take a ohm meter and connect to the terminals on the fpss.Click the micro switch activating the system.Adjust the screw clock wise to decrease fuel pressure setting.When the ohm meter reads continuity you are you have it adjusted.Give it just a hair more turn to give you room for it fluttering

This is the safest and right way to do it is above.
There are other ways of knowing for sure and thats simply bypassing the fpss and thats what most people suggest.The problem with doing that is that if you have a fuel pump issue you just defeated the purpos of the switch and will probley hurt something.

If you do not have a ohm meter.Pull the plug off and turn the screw clock wise just a tad and see if that fixes it.
Let me know
Dave

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

I had already done the bypass method. Sorry, I guess I should have mentioned that. I'll see about trying the above way too though, for safety measures. Anything else? (On a side note, Dave, those Direct Ports you did were Sweet! ) And thanks again to all that have responded. I'm a newbie to nitrous and I really appreciate all of your help.

TN94Z

iTrader: (14)

I had the exact same thing happening with the fuel pulsating...it was my FPSS. It came from the factory way off. I bet mine was set @90psi from the factory

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

Change your fuel filter and check your fuel pressure. Usually, it's almost always the simple stuff that goes wrong.