Dry Dyno Run
10-02-2005, 11:03 PM
#21
Wow, that's some good work Chris. I didn't think the n2o would be so close to the turbo. Furthermore, I believe it should be closer. Here's the reason, On my graph the dip is the tires slipping, and the peak is were power/torque reached at slippage. So, high points should taper down over dip. I think it possibly would have peaked higher without slipping? Still very fine work. Can I post this in NW section and refer back to you/this thread, or you could post it yourself?
Thanks
Robert
Thanks
Robert
Last edited by Robert56; 10-02-2005 at 11:15 PM.
10-02-2005, 11:15 PM
#22
Originally Posted by Robert56
Currently I have have the same tune that got both times in sig, basic a/f is majority of time at 11.7 and timing is currently at 22*. With this said, when going big, the benifits of dry is you can have truly 2-tunes in one. later models in HP Tuner have a IAT vs Fuel Adder table, and it comes zeroed out. What you do is log temps n/a and on the spray. You will see temps much lower than anything n/a. So, in these areas you can add a fuel multiplier to richen things up. What this does is add to your existing multiper in your WOT Power Enrichment. Conclusion, you only richen things up when spraying and have optimum a/f for n/a. I have just started playing with this and looks promising. The dual tunes for timing can be found in my Web under links, a write up how-to. With dry, you can truly have two tunes in one. I have altered my MAF freqs, but for my Vararam, not the spray. The guys having issues with a/f on dry usually are rich and this is a nozzle placement issue, imo?
Robert
Robert
10-02-2005, 11:24 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Black02SS
Thanks for the explaination. I have seen the IAT vs Fuel Adder Table but didn't know how quick it would come into play on a Dry kit for tuning nor the consistensity of it. On your car, does the IAT always drop to a general range or does it vary much? Is there any hesistation when it sees the drop in IAT's? I have read your write up a long time ago regarding the timing and knew one tune could be done for both regarding that, but was unsure about the AFR. That is why I didn't really care for the kit I had. At the time, with no tune it would run lean on the spray (12.5-13.8) but N/A was fine. Now with the ability to do one tune for both N/A and N20 it would be a much better deal.
Robert
10-03-2005, 05:14 PM
#26
Originally Posted by Robert56
Yea, man, that's exactly where I am headed. Allready have all the wiring and switches in for 3rd stage, and will work my way up on total hp shot.
Robert
Robert
10-04-2005, 11:34 AM
#27
Yea I was going 3-stages of dry, but then decided I wanted some race gas in the bigger shots. So a stand alone fuel system and big octane gas, then no mixing in my tank. Much easier to do it this way. I am thinking have the wet as my 2nd stage to get fuel a flowing. A side benifit is the wet guys will like me too. 
Robert
Robert
10-04-2005, 12:37 PM
#28
Originally Posted by Robert56
Yea I was going 3-stages of dry, but then decided I wanted some race gas in the bigger shots. So a stand alone fuel system and big octane gas, then no mixing in my tank. Much easier to do it this way. I am thinking have the wet as my 2nd stage to get fuel a flowing. A side benifit is the wet guys will like me too.
Robert
Robert
10-04-2005, 12:58 PM
#29
Yea, now that you mention it I remember Al (383LQ4ss) saying something to this effect. Maybe a plate system at the throttle body is the answer, as this would be after all sensors and away from maf. Any info on this would be helpful.
Robert
Robert
10-05-2005, 03:46 AM
#30
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I think in your case Robert you can get it to work. It just takes some trial and error. Both times I tried a dry/wet with the automatic retard using the dry retard method the timing kicked back to full timing after the wet stage hit. I just think some tighter tuning would keep that from happening but we never got back to retry some changes. You do your own tuning and seem to have the time. Datalog the runs with the wet on the street and see what happens. Maybe just run some race gas to compensate incase the timing comes back.
Also the vast majority of your nitrous will be coming through as dry...this means the wet has a smaller impact on flow through the MAF.
Also the vast majority of your nitrous will be coming through as dry...this means the wet has a smaller impact on flow through the MAF.
10-05-2005, 11:39 AM
#32
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Nice smooth transition of power Robert ...though less than what you'd get with a nice TNT 150 hit, it is certainly less violent. 
...though less than what you'd get with a nice TNT 150 hit, it is certainly less violent. Robert
10-06-2005, 07:20 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Thanks. Yes, I understand this, however with between 150/160 hard azz launches (and losing only a hand full of passes), my stock vette rear would have been all over the track by now, with a all in one off the line TNT torque monster shot. What I am shooting for, is a long linear torque run, and next year it will be coming on stronger in the beginning and maintained much longer. Will be beefing rear some.
Robert
Robert
and Im not running any 1.5 60's ....
11-03-2005, 06:42 PM
#35
Originally Posted by SDC
Robert56, Just curious did you have to tune this? I'm adding a 100 dry shot soon.
Thanks
Thanks
Robert
11-03-2005, 07:45 PM
#36
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I have HPTuners but its for my old TA, dont have the time to tune and get it updated, got some personal stuff going on. BUT I'd like to hook up a 100 or 125 shot just to have some fun with until I can afford some more stuff.
My list :
Dry kit
Window Switch
Bottle Heater
NGK TR6s
Anything else? Are you still running stock injectors?
My list :
Dry kit
Window Switch
Bottle Heater
NGK TR6s
Anything else? Are you still running stock injectors?
11-04-2005, 12:51 AM
#37
Originally Posted by SDC
I have HPTuners but its for my old TA, dont have the time to tune and get it updated, got some personal stuff going on. BUT I'd like to hook up a 100 or 125 shot just to have some fun with until I can afford some more stuff.
My list :
Dry kit
Window Switch
Bottle Heater
NGK TR6s
Anything else? Are you still running stock injectors?
My list :
Dry kit
Window Switch
Bottle Heater
NGK TR6s
Anything else? Are you still running stock injectors?
Robert
Robert
11-10-2005, 11:16 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by Robert56
PM Chris Stewart (posted in this thread), he can also give insight on this as he was the one I was refering to. You should be fine, maybe sticking to the 100 shot till you can update your HPT and log. Wait a minute, someone correct me if I am wrong, Hp Tuner can log any lsx car, but you can only change parameters on selected cars, so you can log.
Robert
Robert
Robert
Robert
11-11-2005, 01:45 AM
#39
Originally Posted by SDC
What are the limitations of z06 injectors RWHP wise? Can they do 500rwhp?
Robert
11-12-2005, 12:38 PM
#40
Originally Posted by VINCE
Nice!!!! I am seriously thinking of adding a 3rd stage as well. 100 shot at 3200rpm, 75 shot at 4400rpm and 75 shot at 5200rpm and they all shut off at 6500rpm...
I think a third stage is a little overkill. We only run two on ATVRacers car. Just shrink the front stage a little and bring the rest in up top. Timing and fueling can help soften the hit if need be as well as make it that much safer
We have seen very big changes on the IAT temps depending on ambient, ATVs car has been 9.9s in 110 degree heat and saw only 40-50 degree IATs, and on cool days/10.0s on just the front stage it has seen -20 degrees. Never had both on blast on a cold day to see how far it would go
CAT3 -"convert over to a -6 mainline, the -4 aint going to work much longer"
ATV is running a 4 an feed, and its running thru a y block which cuts it down even a little more. You can make a good chuck of power thru the 4, Dave seems to think its maxed around 250. Eventually I guess we may jet it up to find out where it maxes out before he switches over to 6 AN feed
Black02SS, Im going to tell Dirk you want to put the MAF on