i'm kinda new to the board here but anyway.

i got my 2 silenoid NX dir. port kit from dave last week and got it installed. i ran it at the track friday night (200 shot). i have some issues that i didn't have with my NX nozzle kit (175 shot). its on a full throtle switch, when it is activated it falls completly on its face, ( after some r&d, my a/f goes full lean) then it out of know where picks back up like nothing ever happened. ( at the track it pulled the left front about 6" off the ground with a friend riding). going down the track the a/f is doing fine, at the top of 2nd gear it starts spuddering, at this point i just let out of it. i need some help here, i have ngk tr6 plugs, 255L pump, TSP magic stick cam, full bolt ons, th350 w/art carr converter, 3.73 gears.



thanks, SSwanner

 

How are you pulling your fuel supply.Sounds like your fuel system is not keeping up with the sudden demand.This is causing it to go lean and the slowly recovering.
Dave

 

i have the -4an fuel line from the end of the fuel rail (the test valve is taken out), the fuel silenoid is attached directly to the dist. block with a female connector.

 

What are you using for a fuel system to supply al;l that needed fuel?
Dave

 

its basically stock with a warbro 255L intank pump, i remember you saying something about a fuel accumulator? when i bought it.

 

The thing is that you are requiring a mass amount of fuel at one time.On some applications when doing it like this a fuel accumalter will fix the problem. A hot wire kit would not hurt either.
Dave

 

Or you could just put a dedicated fuel system on the car and be done

 

can you post up some pics and info on both of them if you can?

 

Yes tommorow....
Whats done to your car mod wise?
Dave

 

i'll just list performance for now

lid, 85mm SLP mafs, bellow, ported t-body, ls6 intake, egr & air sys. delete, hooker coated LT's, off road Y, asp pulley, warbro 255L intank pump, Texas Speed Magic Stick cam (237/242 .603/.609 113lsa) ti retainers, moly pushrods, dual springs, 160 deg. thermostat, custom diablo sport tuning, NX hard line direct port by yours truely.

i think thats all of the boltons and ins

 

ok,
a Fuel accumalater and a hotwire kit would be a good thing to use.
Do you have any idea what you are putting down HP wise NA?
Dave

 

i got it dynoed a while back, going through a built 4l60e tci 4500 stall (very loose) and a full cat back exhaust it did like 408 rwhp @ 6400

 

You'll get it worked out bro.

 

Ok you most deffintly need to work on the fuel system...

 

yeah, thats what i figured.

 

can you still post up the pics of the fuel accumulator? what does the ''hot wire'' kit do?

 

I'm not 100% certain here...but I speak to Dave about using the Racetronix style higer voltage supply wiring harness to the fuel pump...I don't recall the specs specifically, but running the fuel pump at ~14 vdc as opposed to ~12 vdc will flow more gas.

From Racetronix.com:



"The Wiring Harness All fuel pumps are voltage sensitive, the lower the voltage the lower the fuel volume. Gerotor pumps exhibit a significant increase in fuel volume with increased supply voltage. A Walbro pump's average fuel volume increases over 18% by increasing the supply voltage from 12 to 13.5 volts. The factory harness is marginal at best for supplying a factory pump with enough voltage to perform well. This is why the 'hot wire' modification is so popular. Replacing the factory pump with a high-performance pump such as the Walbro GSS340M can easily double the current demand under W.O.T. pressures. The voltage drop in the factory harness increases proportionally to the current demands of the pump. Racetronix has documented tests where the voltage drop in a factory harness has caused over a 25% drop in fuel pump volume. The Racetronix harness uses heavy 10 gauge copper wire to reduce voltage-drop to very low levels. The factory gauge of wire used is three gauges thinner. Our power feed comes off the back of the alternator where voltage is highest. It then runs through a Delphi weatherproof fuse holder and then to the back of the car. The Racetronix harness uses three-position male and female Delphi Weatherpack connectors which plug in-line with the factory harness at the back of the tank. No cutting or splicing is required. A Siemens weatherproof 40 amp rated mil-spec. relay is used. These relays have silver plated contacts and are the best money can buy so that you can be guaranteed to have trouble-free operation. The Racetronix harness has a redundant ground upgrade as it is necessary to improve the harness on the negative side of the pump's supply as well. All the harness connections are crimped using certified Delphi crimpers and are soldered as well. All the harnesses we have seen to date from the competition are not soldered. Racetronix supplies a spare ATC fuse, black vinyl wire ties, silicon grease and mounting hardware with each kit. We are including as a bonus our optional battery to body ground upgrade kit. This kit upgrades the under-rated ground wire running from the battery to chassis. It includes a crimped and soldered piece of high strand count 8 gauge copper wire and brass battery nuts with accessory taps."

 

dave, everyone, this is a pic of my current n2o setup. i took this this morning and now i am redoing the wiring to make it look better and the fuel silenoid is straight up now.

 

definately need to beef up that fuel system. I personally would recomend a stand alone setup. You can then put very high octane fuel in that system and it will only get used when you are spraying.

I have a Jazz fuel cell and Mallory pump and regulator. I would recomend one of Daves all in one setups because after your done with hoses and stuff on the DIY one...the cost is the same but Daves is hassle free.

 

Jeff,
Good job.I love the look of a directport.That system is hard to plumb huh? LOL

I will try to find a pic tommorow for you.We were so busy today Im still in here working.
Dave