Now that my motor has been forged, a 12-bolt and built 4L60E will be done this spring. My question is this: When I add a DP nitrous setup, should I spray 250? Is it gonna' be too much? I don't want to overdo it and blow up my new motor ... just wondering if I should just spray a 200-shot, instead.

 

I would say a 200 then progress to a 250

 

depends, was the motor built for nitrous? who built the motor etc? if it was built for nitrous then 200-300 shouldn't be a problem if you have a good tune and supporting mods. running a progressive controller helps. i have a complete BAD *** nitrous system and progressive controller for sale in the for sale section right now.

 

The motor was forged by Next Level Performance in Altamonte Springs, FL ... would say there is not a better performance shop in the state. The rings were set up for nitrous about a 50/50 setup so I could go either way ... nitrous or just all motor.

I had them install a Racetronix fuel pump and SVO injectors, so, the motor should do well on spray. My main concern is > will it be too hard on the motor to spray that much (250)?

 

u should talk to ur motor builders, they know the motor better than anyone...tell them ur setup also. I think they could help u more than anyone else on this board.

 

250 for sure, imo.
Robert

 

That's my sentiments exactly ... the folks who built my motor would know best and I would not go against what they would tell me ... just seeking personal opinions from people here who are experienced with big shots of nitrous. Probably would be best to do an adjustable 200-500 DP setup and run it at 200 for about 6 months to evaluate my plugs and other signs of strength or weakness. By then, the 12-bolt will definitely be in and the transmission will be being racebuilt.

250 is my ultimate goal.

 

You will be fine.The key lays in the tune up..
YOu will need more fuel than what THat racetronix kit is going to give you to support a 250 shot and your NA horse power. I suggest one of our dedicated fuel systems.
Dave

 

will it really take more fuel then that racetronix can push

you can put a boostapump on the racetronix and push more fuel

would that be good for a direct port wet kit?

 

I've had a nightmare trying to tune my forged 346 for a 150 wet or dry shot. It would be just that much more challenging for a 200-250 shot.

 

Steve, what issues did you have with yours? I had no issues getting the tune into my 382 motor for the 200, 250 and 300 shots that I ran it on. Just curious.

As far as the on topic question, the tune is pretty critical #1. #2 Only your builder is qualified to tell you what they would really expect it to hold up to. A bunch of internet jockies can tell you where they've been or what they've read, but their not responsible for your stuff. It's always easier to start on the lower end and work your way up. I share Dave's opinion too, your fuel system won't hack it for the fuel required to feed a 200+ shot very well.

 

Mike (the shop owner) should be able tell you exactly what it can take. He's also real good at tuning as he built and tuned mine. I'm running quite a bit more than what you're considering

 

i would be more worried about the trans then the motor.

 

Derty,
I wish you were here so that I could turn this thing over to you.
1. When the car got back from FM it had 30# injectors, but I have had to change to 42# injectors.
2. I had to change from a Walbro 255 to 340.
3. It took a month or so to get rid of 4 degrees of kr.
5. I can't the Bank 1 and 2 mv right.
6. It is currently too rich at wot.
7. If it can go wrong it will.

 

The 12-bolt and tranny build will transpire before a DP setup goes on. I want to be as safe as possible or I'd go ahead and do a 100-125 dry shot for the time being. Oh well, after all the forge work, AFR H/C upgrade, mezierre H2O pump, and U/D pulley, I'm only at 400RWHP ... was hoping for more. I guess it's about all the HD Eaton posi, factory 3.73 gears, stock axles, and stock A4 tranny can probably handle, anyway. So, nitrous (even a small dry shot) is pretty much out of the question until the drivetrain work.

I was up at Mike's shop Saturday trying to pick up my car, unfortunately, the tranny had an issue ... not sure if it's coincidence or if it might be related to the shift kit they installed, but, while I was there, I saw Eric and Steve's cars (NEXT and Caveman) ... made me envious. Awesome cars guys. Eric, that rearend looks like Fort Knox ... wish I could be there at BMP on Dec 17th when you guys will rule the track with WPFBody folks.

 

well if you ask me , there will risk that you will take with the 200 n20 shot is alomt the same for me with the 250 n2o not alot of difference.

 

Don't be to worried about your dyno numbers. Remember, Mike's dyno is known as the "humbler" and it's only a tool for tuning. At one time I made only 508rwhp and went 9's so that should tell you something.

Thanks, the 9" was built for speed ps, Caveman = Dave

 

Sorry, I meant Caveman = Dave ... sorry. He's a really nice dude and I've heard the same about you Eric. Great to have racer's who are down-to-earth people.

As for the nitrous and rearend, they're closer. I saw my tranny at Mike's shop today and it's grenaded to the max. So, the FLP racebuilt will go in now ... just too bad I'm gonna' be without the car for another month. Oh well, I guess I'm beginning to FEEL the paraphrase, "If you wanna' play, you gotta' pay."

So, this will means the 12-bolt is next. I liked that 9" rearend. Mine's a street/strip, so I wanna' keep the ABS.