MattZ28

iTrader: (4)

So my bottle heater switch kept blowing fuses...people told me to wire it directly to the battery. Wired it directly to the battery, reconnected everything, then I hear "TSSSSS", kinda like my purge, so I figure my purge button was being pressed since the knee panel was leaning against the seat.

....Then I see smoke coming out from inside my car. I jumped into the car, saw that all my N2O wires were on fire, so I grabbed them with my bare hand and ripped them out. My middle finger looks like beef jerky.

Now the thing is, the wire that I just ran directly to the battery is NOT burned...all the others are. I'm afraid to even reconnect my battery, let alone work up the motivation to re-wire everything








*upon further inspection, it's the wire that goes from the heater switch accy position, back to the bottle heater relay.
-What would cause THIS wire to burn, and
-What would make it keep blowing fuses?

thechef

iTrader: (13)

dude you ever hear of wire connectors?? what is that in the pics duct tape ???

MattZ28

iTrader: (4)

I used wire connectors where they were needed....did you think I connected wires using the electrical tape? lol

I taped up all the wires so it would look cleaner, as it IS the interior of the car.

2001 Red Coupe Bandit

That sucks, seriously.

How about a picture of your burnt finger to go with the others??

Good Luck, at least your car didn't get dammaged

BoostedWS7

its obvious that you have a direct short. (power wire on a ground without a load)there was an over amperage that was blowing fuses. fuses are your friend. the wire from the battery was probably a thicker gauge wire, that is why it didnt burn yet.

to put it short, u fuctup the wiring, or got a wire pinched and it is grounding out.

MattZ28

iTrader: (4)

No, that wire was only burned by the other wire. Looks like the switch melted too since it's stuck in position...I guess the wires were probably touching. I'm positive everything was going to the right thing.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

If your switch was melted also it sounds like you may have run your high amp load wire through your switch. didn't someone tell you to wire it directly, then you have a fire, that should tell the whole story right there, I would think. rewire the way it should be and you won't have a problem.
Robert

JamesO WS6

I beleive he's hit it on the head.

But to prevent you from blowing more fuses you should definlty redo your wiring or at the very lest find the problem causing wire. Otherwise you will have solved nothing. Good luck, and sorry to hear about your finger. I would have done the same thing to prevent a fire in my car.

JoeyGC5

iTrader: (24)

PLEASE don't ever wire directly to the battery. Thats like kicking a bull in the nuts then flicking it in the nose

frknlo

I'd have to agree with some here saying the wiring is wrong. Sounds like the switch is going directly to the heater. Double check your wiring. It should be-
First is the relay energizing part
•12v+ ignition source to the switch
•switch to a wire on the pressure transducer
•second wire on transducer to pin #86 on the relay
•pin #85 on relay to ground
2nd part is power for the heater
•Heavy gauged fused wire(I believe at least a 20 amp, different brand heaters will most likely have different power requirements. So post your heater specs too)from battery 12v+ to pin #30 on relay
•pin #87 on relay to one of the heater wires
•second heater wire to ground.
If its set up like this there should be no problems! But if it was setup like this, then like BoostedWS7 said you have a short to ground.

Somebody09

Speaking of directly to the battery... When I wired my car up I put an 80 amp fuse before any and all of my accessories (maximizer2, wideband, cutouts, heater, opener, solenoids). Each thing also has it's own fuse too. I guess I just feel safer that way. And it's also nice to have a "master" fuse so that when I pull it, neither my friends nor anyone else can use anything except what came with the car. I also didn't wire directly into the switched +12V for similar reasons... all the switched +12V does is activate a 50 amp relay that provides power from the same "master" fused source. Maybe this helps?

-somebody

BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

Use a fuse. Follow instruction manuals. Buy from experts who offer support. Never get in a hurry and cut corners.

MattZ28

iTrader: (4)

85 is the switch, 86 is ground...

frknlo

It can be either or. Those two terminals are for the coil to energize and pull the contacts down, which allows power to go from 30 to 87.

MattZ28

iTrader: (4)

So that's not my problem?

frknlo

If you're talkin bout just the 85 and 86 being the only part thats different from the correct hookup I gave. Then no thats not your problem. Theres gotta be a short to ground between the switch and the relay. I think you should just pull all the wires out and reroute some new ones.

MattZ28

iTrader: (4)

Looks like the N2O main feed line ate right through the power wire for the relay. Would this have caused my problems?

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yea man, you then have a direct ground. That's why I allways keep wiring away from the braided lines, they can act like a buzz saw.
Robert

MattZ28

iTrader: (4)

Heh, glad I found the problem then....

My alternator bracket got chewed up by the braided line from the solenoid to the nozzle. I was pretty surprised...I wrapped it excessively with electrical tape, which I will do to the part in the car where it is close to the wires.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

ALWAYS fuse the power wire as close as possible to the power source....Make the fuse current rating slightly larger than the full load of the heater, and also make sure the wire can easily carry the load of the heater... If you start blowing fuses....You've got a problem, dont simply up the fuse rating or heaven forbid REMOVE the fuse. Chalk it up as a lesson learned, because you could have easily burned your car to the ground....