Building the SAFEST Wet Kit Possible
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From: Winston-Salem, NC
Building the SAFEST Wet Kit Possible I've been doing a little research both here and on other forums, and I'm trying to create the absolute SAFEST 150-200hp Wet Kit possible. These are the items I'm considering purchasing, please add in/comment/criticize at will.
I do not want to go Direct Port, and I think the Air/Fuel Ratio Nitrous shut-down switch will save me the expense of a Wideband A/F gauge since it reads off of the stock o2s.
What am I leaving out? Thanks guys!
- TNT Wet Nitrous Kit, 1998-02 LS1 F-Body & 1997-03 LS1 Corvette, "F1" Kit
Includes power ring, dual stainless steel nozzles, stainless N2O & fuel solenoids, brackets, screws, jets, steel-braided hoses, N2O filter, N2O bottle pressure gauge, 17' N2O line, bottle brackets, micro (WOT) switch & bracket, 10 lb. Bottle[check] - TNT Purge Kit[check]
- Speed Engineering Nitrous Switch Plate [check]
- Gauge Works Dual Gauge Pod Full Pillar [check]
- LS1 Timing Tuner & N20 Control Will work as my window & delay switch, as well [check]
- Dynotune Black Bottle Warmer [check]
- Dynotune Digital Fuel PSI Gauge [check]
- Dynotune Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauge [check]
- ZEX Remote Nitrous Bottle Valve Opener (If DynoTune can make a bottle opener that will work with a TNT bottle, I'll go that route.)
- Air/Fuel Ratio Nitrous shut-down switch
- Dynotune Fuel Pressure Safety Switch [check]
- Racetronix Fuel Pump Kit LS1 (98 Only) [check]
- NGK Plugs, TR6s or TR7s depending on shot size [check]
- F-Body Spare Tire Well Bottle Mounting Bracket [check]
I do not want to go Direct Port, and I think the Air/Fuel Ratio Nitrous shut-down switch will save me the expense of a Wideband A/F gauge since it reads off of the stock o2s.
What am I leaving out? Thanks guys!
Last edited by JoeyAnderson; Oct 9, 2006 at 01:40 PM.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Originally Posted by JoeyAnderson
I've been doing a little research both here and on other forums, and I'm trying to create the absolute SAFEST 150-200hp Wet Kit possible. These are the items I'm considering purchasing, please add in/comment/criticize at will.
I do not want to go Direct Port, and I think the Air/Fuel Ratio Nitrous shut-down switch will save me the expense of a Wideband A/F gauge since it reads off of the stock o2s.
What am I leaving out? Thanks guys!
- NT Wet Nitrous Kit, 1998-02 LS1 F-Body & 1997-03 LS1 Corvette, "F1" Kit
Includes power ring, dual stainless steel nozzles, stainless N2O & fuel solenoids, brackets, screws, jets, steel-braided hoses, N2O filter, N2O bottle pressure gauge, 17' N2O line, bottle brackets, micro switch & bracket, 10 lb. Bottle - TNT Purge Kit
- Speed Engineering Nitrous Switch Plate
- Gauge Works Dual Gauge Pod Full Pillar
- LS1 Timing Tuner & N20 Control Will work as my window switch, as well
- "The Trigger", HSW's WOT Switch
- Dynotune Bottle Warmer
- Dynotune Digital Fuel PSI Gauge
- Dynotune Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauge
- A bottle opener of some type (What is the nicest one that works with the TNT bottle?)
- Air/Fuel Ratio Nitrous shut-down switch
- Dynotune Fuel Pressure Safety Switch
I do not want to go Direct Port, and I think the Air/Fuel Ratio Nitrous shut-down switch will save me the expense of a Wideband A/F gauge since it reads off of the stock o2s.
What am I leaving out? Thanks guys!
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Originally Posted by JoeyAnderson
Yes! I forgot to add that - I'll edit the post now. Thanks David! I'll be private messaging you some more, I'm sure.
We should all know that no kit is really safe and especially not the wet kits flowing through an intake designed for dry flow. What you worry about most is fuel distribution and some cylinders leaning out.
Devices are not the answer to safety.
The AFR from a WBO2 will be an average, and will not reliably show distribution problems.
If I had no choice but to run a wet kit through an LS1 intake I'd take these steps:
First I'd handle at least part of the extra fueling via the injectors to take a percentage of the distribution error out of the equation. I'd keep the AFR securely on the rich side, and adjust spark advance for such.
I'd also probably run a higher bottle pressure while rejetting to take this into account.... this in an effort to maximize fuel atomization by adding more energy to the point of mixing, though this is a little questionable to expect positive results.
Keep a very close eye on the sparkplugs. A closer gap might save you from a problem.
Also keep a close eye on the valve-springs. Take steps to avoid valve bounce & float from the start. Make sure the valves seal well, and keep the overlap period to a minimum.
-JMO
Devices are not the answer to safety.
The AFR from a WBO2 will be an average, and will not reliably show distribution problems.
If I had no choice but to run a wet kit through an LS1 intake I'd take these steps:
First I'd handle at least part of the extra fueling via the injectors to take a percentage of the distribution error out of the equation. I'd keep the AFR securely on the rich side, and adjust spark advance for such.
I'd also probably run a higher bottle pressure while rejetting to take this into account.... this in an effort to maximize fuel atomization by adding more energy to the point of mixing, though this is a little questionable to expect positive results.
Keep a very close eye on the sparkplugs. A closer gap might save you from a problem.
Also keep a close eye on the valve-springs. Take steps to avoid valve bounce & float from the start. Make sure the valves seal well, and keep the overlap period to a minimum.
-JMO
Your list looks good. The only "other" item you could think about is a second nitrous solenoid running in series with the first. This would be an extra safety item to be sure the nitrous was off when the system was off. I personally don't run this type of setup but you said "SAFE", and this would give another step in protection...
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I agree with what's been said on the tuning. I believe this to be the biggest safety factor, making sure everything is right on.
Airwolf, I have a slightly different idea about running redundant noids on a wet kit. I think the benifit is out weighed by the fact that you will double the chance of no n2o flow at all if failure happens? Others thoughts?
Robert
Airwolf, I have a slightly different idea about running redundant noids on a wet kit. I think the benifit is out weighed by the fact that you will double the chance of no n2o flow at all if failure happens? Others thoughts?
Robert
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Originally Posted by JoeyAnderson
I've been doing a little research both here and on other forums, and I'm trying to create the absolute SAFEST 150-200hp Wet Kit possible. These are the items I'm considering purchasing, please add in/comment/criticize at will.
...............
What am I leaving out? Thanks guys!
...............
What am I leaving out? Thanks guys!
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 37
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Robert,If you have no n2o flow, what will that hurt other than your time and speed? What would the extra fuel do? It seems like I recently saw a post where someone had a noid stick open. It would seem to me that 2 n2o noids would be the safest. JMO
FormerVendor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 864
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From: Wichita Falls,Tx
I agree with Robert, redundant solenoids on a wet system are not needed IMO. To answer Go Fast's question about what too much fuel can do. Too much fuel can cause damage the same as not having enough fuel, and not having any nitrous flow while the fuel solenoid is operating could lead to this problem.
JoeyAnderson- Your list looks pretty good, and you'll be happy with the TNT system.
I do have to agree with White2001s10 and remind all of us that using nitrous can be dangerous if certain procedures and parts are not used, and that one of the best things a person can do to make a system safer is to have it properly installed/tuned. However, I would have to say that wet systems can be just as safe, or as dangerous, as dry systems regardless of the fact that a wet system is flowing fuel through the intake. Since no intake was ever designed to flow liquid through it, I think that is kind of a mute point, but that's a completely differenct topic that can be found on here using the search feature. lol.
JoeyAnderson- Your list looks pretty good, and you'll be happy with the TNT system.
I do have to agree with White2001s10 and remind all of us that using nitrous can be dangerous if certain procedures and parts are not used, and that one of the best things a person can do to make a system safer is to have it properly installed/tuned. However, I would have to say that wet systems can be just as safe, or as dangerous, as dry systems regardless of the fact that a wet system is flowing fuel through the intake. Since no intake was ever designed to flow liquid through it, I think that is kind of a mute point, but that's a completely differenct topic that can be found on here using the search feature. lol.
Originally Posted by Go Faster
Robert,If you have no n2o flow, what will that hurt other than your time and speed? What would the extra fuel do? It seems like I recently saw a post where someone had a noid stick open. It would seem to me that 2 n2o noids would be the safest. JMO
Robert
Have you looked at the dynotune bottle opener?I think its cheaper and has a real nice billet handle that comes with it.
Originally Posted by JoeyAnderson
I've been doing a little research both here and on other forums, and I'm trying to create the absolute SAFEST 150-200hp Wet Kit possible. These are the items I'm considering purchasing, please add in/comment/criticize at will.
I do not want to go Direct Port, and I think the Air/Fuel Ratio Nitrous shut-down switch will save me the expense of a Wideband A/F gauge since it reads off of the stock o2s.
What am I leaving out? Thanks guys!
- TNT Wet Nitrous Kit, 1998-02 LS1 F-Body & 1997-03 LS1 Corvette, "F1" Kit
Includes power ring, dual stainless steel nozzles, stainless N2O & fuel solenoids, brackets, screws, jets, steel-braided hoses, N2O filter, N2O bottle pressure gauge, 17' N2O line, bottle brackets, micro switch & bracket, 10 lb. Bottle - TNT Purge Kit
- Speed Engineering Nitrous Switch Plate
- Gauge Works Dual Gauge Pod Full Pillar
- LS1 Timing Tuner & N20 Control Will work as my window switch, as well
- "The Trigger", HSW's WOT Switch
- Dynotune Bottle Warmer
- Dynotune Digital Fuel PSI Gauge
- Dynotune Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauge
- ZEX Remote Nitrous Bottle Valve Opener
- Air/Fuel Ratio Nitrous shut-down switch
- Dynotune Fuel Pressure Safety Switch
- Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
- NGK Plugs, TR6s or TR7s depending on shot size
- F-Body Spare Tire Well Bottle Mounting Bracket
I do not want to go Direct Port, and I think the Air/Fuel Ratio Nitrous shut-down switch will save me the expense of a Wideband A/F gauge since it reads off of the stock o2s.
What am I leaving out? Thanks guys!
I'm still kinda new to the nitrous thing but how about another fuel filter before the fuel solinoid, would I't be to much fuel resistance? I wouldnt mind keeping my fuel jets clean. Just a thought.
On a side note, ur gonna love that TNT kit!!!!! It hits so hard!!!! I put 220 to the wheels on a 200 shot TNT through a turbo 400, heavy duty steel driveshaft, and a 12-bolt!
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From: Winston-Salem, NC
Thanks for all the replies guys! Unfortunately, at this time the Dynotune opener won't work with the TNT bottle. I have PMed Dean@DynoTune, and he's working hard to produce an opener that will work for me (and all other TNT'ers). He should know something in about a week. It says alot that Dynotune is that motivated to work so hard for a first time customer (me!). NitroDave and David@TNT have also been VERY helpful to me via Private Message. I'm excited about giving them all business. A filter comes with the TNT kit - will that be sufficient?
Originally Posted by ws6sojuiced01
Have you looked at the dynotune bottle opener?I think its cheaper and has a real nice billet handle that comes with it.
Originally Posted by terry s
Don't forget a good nitrous filter to reduce the risk of a nitrous solenoid stickong open. 
Originally Posted by JoeyAnderson
Thanks for all the replies guys!Unfortunately, at this time the Dynotune opener won't work with the TNT bottle. I have PMed Dean@DynoTune, and he's working hard to produce an opener that will work for me (and all other TNT'ers). He should know something in about a week. It says alot that Dynotune is that motivated to work so hard for a first time customer (me!). NitroDave and David@TNT have also been VERY helpful to me via Private Message. I'm excited about giving them all business.A filter comes with the TNT kit - will that be sufficient?
Robert
