Harris Speed Works controller install ?......
Harris Speed Works controller install ?...... Been working on the install of my Harris Speed Works nitrous controller. Everything is all setup. I went to program the tps switch, which is built in the kit, and its acting funky. Voltage at the tps reads correctly but once I tap into it for the signal on the controller, it reads like a constant 1v no matter what the throttle position is. Not sure why it would affect the voltage at the TPS cuz its only tapped in to read the signal.
Oh, and every time I connect the wire to the tps signal wire I get a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message display. The guys at Harris Speed Works said that it could be a bad ground but Im positive I have it grounded correctly.
Oh, and every time I connect the wire to the tps signal wire I get a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message display. The guys at Harris Speed Works said that it could be a bad ground but Im positive I have it grounded correctly.
do you have a multimeter? If so read the wire on the controller you are hooking up to and see if there is 1v backfeeding out of the controller for some reason.Go directly from the wire with the red lead and put the black lead on a good ground and see what VDC is. There should be none. If there is no voltage it seems like you may just be on the worng wire? You have the signal wire identified correctly?
If there is voltage double check the rest of your connections as well as the settings on the controller to see if something else is not right.
If there is voltage double check the rest of your connections as well as the settings on the controller to see if something else is not right.
Im tapping into the dark blue wire on the TPS. I checked with a multimeter and it fluctuates with throttle movement, roughly 5v at WOT. I have not checked to see if there is any voltage backfeeding on that one wire, not sure why it would be.
it shouldnt. But if its hooked up right and its causing a problem then it has to be the controller. You have to prove one or the other so check both.
If it has voltage on the wire going to the controller...go back and double checl all the other hookups for the controller like grounds especially.
If it has voltage on the wire going to the controller...go back and double checl all the other hookups for the controller like grounds especially.
Last time we spoke I believe we left it that you would re-do the connections. Has that been done? Are you getting the RPM signal to operate correctly? What ODB 2 code are you throwing with the "REDUCED ENGINE POWER" error? The Edge isn't modifying that signal, just reading it. It sounds like the connection is bad on that wire and it's limiting the voltage that the PCM reads, thus showing you that code.
Matt
Matt
I grounded the unit to the same place I grounded my wideband, and I know that works. I checked all my connections and they are good. I disconnected the rpm signal cuz I wanted to get the tps working first and have been unable to. I believe the code i threw was, P1221 TP Sensors 1, 2 Performance whatever that is.
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With the "REDUCED ENGINE POWER" are you also throwing a P01514? Has your throttle cracker air flow table been modified?
P1221 is a Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. Don't think that's it, but here are some close ones.
DTC P1219 Throttle Position Sensor Reference Voltage
DTC P1220 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 2 Circuit
DTC P1120 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1 Circuit
DTC P1121 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage
DTC P1122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
If it's a DTC P1219 then the wrong wire is taped. The other codes would indicate a voltage problem. First thing I would do is make sure all your fuses are good. If they are okay chances are it's a connection issue. I can send out a new unit, but I doubt it's going to fix the problem. Before you disconnected the RPM did you run the RPM test in the test mode? If so, what were the results?
Matt
P1221 is a Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. Don't think that's it, but here are some close ones.
DTC P1219 Throttle Position Sensor Reference Voltage
DTC P1220 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 2 Circuit
DTC P1120 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1 Circuit
DTC P1121 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage
DTC P1122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
If it's a DTC P1219 then the wrong wire is taped. The other codes would indicate a voltage problem. First thing I would do is make sure all your fuses are good. If they are okay chances are it's a connection issue. I can send out a new unit, but I doubt it's going to fix the problem. Before you disconnected the RPM did you run the RPM test in the test mode? If so, what were the results?
Matt
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Verdad Gallardo I did not get a chance to test the rpm. The first time I connected the wire to the tps signal it seemed to be okay, as in no codes or messages were thrown. I programmed the TPS and turned the unit off. Once I arm the system it immediately displays SYSTEM ACTIVATED and the solenoids begin to pulse. I did not touch the throttle and the engine wasent even running. Ill try to checking tonight the wire coming from the Harris controller to see if there is any voltage present.
Double check that The Edge is set to TPS and not Micro Switch, as that will happen if it is. What were the results with the TPS test in the test mode?
Matt
Matt
Originally Posted by JetVette
I did not get a chance to test the rpm. The first time I connected the wire to the tps signal it seemed to be okay, as in no codes or messages were thrown. I programmed the TPS and turned the unit off. Once I arm the system it immediately displays SYSTEM ACTIVATED and the solenoids begin to pulse. I did not touch the throttle and the engine wasent even running. Ill try to checking tonight the wire coming from the Harris controller to see if there is any voltage present.
you checked that with the TPS controller input wire disconnected correct? If you did not disconnect it that wont tell you much. It sure sounds like you have hooked to the wrong wire.....going into the TPS is three wires, a constant 5v output reference sent from the PCM, the output wire that is the "signal" back to the PCM (this signal is just the same 5v modified through a pot) and the last wire is a ground.
Use your multimeter to find out which one reads 5v volts all the time regardless of throttle position and which one reads approx .60 at idle and approx 4.5 at full open throttle. You need to be on the one that reads .6 at idle. You can lightly pierce the wires right out of the tps plug.
*edit* disregard...I see you already identified which wires was the output wire in your above post. You said it was getting close to 5v? What was the exact voltage...5v will set a code at WOT. It should be more like 4.5. Do you have a FAST TB? or is it a stock TB.
I would thoroughly recheck each individual wire you have hooked up. I cant see why the controller would have 5 volts coming out. If anything I would expect 12 volts if it was a controller defect. Or some other random amount of voltage....
can you take some pics of your install with wire colors or draw out a diagram of what you have hooked up so far in your own writing?
Use your multimeter to find out which one reads 5v volts all the time regardless of throttle position and which one reads approx .60 at idle and approx 4.5 at full open throttle. You need to be on the one that reads .6 at idle. You can lightly pierce the wires right out of the tps plug.
*edit* disregard...I see you already identified which wires was the output wire in your above post. You said it was getting close to 5v? What was the exact voltage...5v will set a code at WOT. It should be more like 4.5. Do you have a FAST TB? or is it a stock TB.
I would thoroughly recheck each individual wire you have hooked up. I cant see why the controller would have 5 volts coming out. If anything I would expect 12 volts if it was a controller defect. Or some other random amount of voltage....
can you take some pics of your install with wire colors or draw out a diagram of what you have hooked up so far in your own writing?
Last edited by 383LQ4SS; Dec 8, 2005 at 01:33 AM.
edited post above...I would disconnect all wires to the controller except the power and ground...turn it on. Then check the TPS input wire on the controller...if you have 5v still coming out...its a bad controller.
UNless...maybe there is a setting in the controller for a rising or falling TPS voltage paramter for activation...or another setting for a regular on/off voltage applied to activate instead of using a variable TPS signal. This type of setup would be used for carb setups of something with no TPS. Although I still dont know why there would be a voltage output at that wire unless it were ment to be grounded through a WOT switch.
UNless...maybe there is a setting in the controller for a rising or falling TPS voltage paramter for activation...or another setting for a regular on/off voltage applied to activate instead of using a variable TPS signal. This type of setup would be used for carb setups of something with no TPS. Although I still dont know why there would be a voltage output at that wire unless it were ment to be grounded through a WOT switch.
Last edited by 383LQ4SS; Dec 8, 2005 at 01:41 AM.
The Edge My name is Ed. I own a performance shop in Va. We do ALOT of LT1 and LS1 perf. stuff. Bolt ons to complete engine packages. We do our own dyno tuning. Recently a new customer brought me an Edge controller and a N2O system to install. We had the same problem, EVEN THOUGH WE WERE PROGRAMMING THE TPS SETTINGS AND SAVING THEM CORRECTLY. I spoke with Matt at HSW and we even went thru the TPS cal. and saved the file, and loaded the file, etc. with him on the phone. Still everytime we would turn off the controller and turn it back on it would set a code. 1221 TPS. We sent the box back, Matt said there was nothing wrong with it, sent it back, we did nothing different to the car but now that problem is gone. Now we have a problem that everytime the throttle is depressed more than about 75% WITH THE CONTROLLER OFF the tps voltage drops straight to closed throttle voltage, about .5v. With the controller ON it DOESNT drop out. WTF? We have tried it over and over and it repeats consistently. BTW Im an ASE Master Tech, I specialize in electrical, Im confident in my wiring skills, and if anyone wants any osciliscope screen shots I'd be glad to put them up here.
The controller tested out fine. You recieved the unit back and "somehow" the unit is now able to save settings, which it would not before. We didn't change anything on the unit, so I am at a loss on how it is now able to save settings. Last time we spoke I asked you to try a few things, did you?
Matt
Matt
Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
My name is Ed. I own a performance shop in Va. We do ALOT of LT1 and LS1 perf. stuff. Bolt ons to complete engine packages. We do our own dyno tuning. Recently a new customer brought me an Edge controller and a N2O system to install. We had the same problem, EVEN THOUGH WE WERE PROGRAMMING THE TPS SETTINGS AND SAVING THEM CORRECTLY. I spoke with Matt at HSW and we even went thru the TPS cal. and saved the file, and loaded the file, etc. with him on the phone. Still everytime we would turn off the controller and turn it back on it would set a code. 1221 TPS. We sent the box back, Matt said there was nothing wrong with it, sent it back, we did nothing different to the car but now that problem is gone. Now we have a problem that everytime the throttle is depressed more than about 75% WITH THE CONTROLLER OFF the tps voltage drops straight to closed throttle voltage, about .5v. With the controller ON it DOESNT drop out. WTF? We have tried it over and over and it repeats consistently. BTW Im an ASE Master Tech, I specialize in electrical, Im confident in my wiring skills, and if anyone wants any osciliscope screen shots I'd be glad to put them up here.
