Somebody09

Actually, if you can give me the percentage rate of failure for both of the 'noids you're using, we can figure this out statistically.

Also, I'm very interested in a solonoid style opener as long as I can use my bottle heater with it. We all know that the bottle valve must be open in order for any automatic bottle heater to work, and I want to keep bottle pressure up to about 1000-1050 without the added stress on my main solenoid (the one 2 feet before the nozzles). You know? Just incase I run into a Cobra or something on the highway. Just flip the switch and make him my bitch! lol I made a funny. [/splinter]

Do you think it's all right to do that?

thanks,
-somebody

Somebody09

Very good question. I tend to keep my "arm" switch on for several minutes... I'd be hooking this extra 'noid into the same circuitry. I'd say anywhere between 5-30 minutes, or until the charlie has left the scene.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Not true on bottle being open for all auto heaters. I use a electro thermastat that is not pressure activated but rather temp acivated, so with style bottle can be closed. Also, depending on what bottle you have the mech bott valve can be left closed if transducer is on the bottle side of valve. Meaning it sees pressure even when bottle is closed. NOS has been do this for a long time, I know NX recenly changed to this style. Now if you have a older bottle with transducer after the mech valve yea then you have to have bottle open for transduce to read pressure and turn heater off.

I am checking on the exact amps of the ND bottle noid. The small normal noids are 7/8 amps, but this bott noid is much lower. I have left my bottle noid powered on, through switched 12v, so anytime I start car bottle opens. Always ready is/was my goal and had everything including heater set this way. Did this for a couple years, using relays and fuses and good wiring, and never once had a problem. So, it was left on for literaly hours at a time and never got hot or blew a fuse or malfuctioned. I am not suggesting anyone do this, as I tell this only as a I did this and shows what can be done.

On the failure rate, I don't know. I have never had a noid fail on my main system (annual service).
Robert

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Nitrous Direct noid pulls 1.5 amps, to stay open. Absolutely nothing to be worried about. This is why they don't get hot, a low amp draw. try leaving a regular n2o noid on for a bit, they get hot.
Robert

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

Robert Im interested in the ND opener noid...What is the flow limit of this noid? I know the NOS one was barely enough on my TNT 150 shot and I believe it would restrict flow on the TNT 200 shot....Does the ND noid flow more?

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

It's approx 275hp or slightly higher.
Robert

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

i put my heater transducer and guage transducer before the opener, are you sayin I cant do this with the ND solenoid opener ?

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

No, maybe reread, you may be not understanding the relationship of the different items. If something isn't clear let me know.

The mech transducers that are pressure regulated must have bottle pressure against them to know when to open and close (power to heater). The problem on some bottles is the port for the mech transducer is after the mech bottle valve (plastic **** on bottle). So, if heater is on and bottle valve is closed, the transducer dosen't read the pressure coming up in bottle, and it won't shut off and can heat bottle till safety disc rupture; then you loose all in bottle. Newer bottles have the port before the mech bottle valve, so you can heat bottle with the valve open or closed. Either way/type bottle, the transducer should be before your bottle noid.
Robert

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

i see, my valve does not have an 1/8" accy port so I'm using a 2 hole manifold for my switch and guage 'ducer...thanx

stangsteve

Ahahahaahha Daves talking about my car I dont realy like the big bulkyness of the NX style openers, but I dont like the noid style either. wouldnt they be considered a restriction in the main feed line since the nitrous has to go thru a smaller orifice than whats inside the main feed? If I were to run one it would be the mechanical style Ive had two NOS openers and they both leaked since new. With what they cost and the fact that they leaked, I havent bought another since. That was several years back, well like 5 or so

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Another wonderful benifit of running dry, it's just going to go out the air box cause throttle is closed. So, if it was to leak through two noids into engine it will be going to the path of least resistance, which is to the atmosphere rather than intake plenum.
Robert

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

As for the noids being a restriction, yes if your running a big shot. But if running running a shot less than noids max you'll be fine, or maybe we should consider our reular noids a restriction, makes no sense to me. Unless your a dedicated racer, who wouldn't use a remote opener, going for the NHRA worlds championship, you'll be fine.

Here's the NOS valve on my Z06, not using one right know cause I can reach it by hand, but may put it back on. The reson why they prob leak, is the fact that they slam that plunger big time. It's one of the hardest hitting noids I have heard, bam. They are a breeze to rebuild, though.

Robert

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

But still the entire intake box is filled.When the motor cranks it sucks air into the intake through the airbox or air lid.
Dave

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

True in a sence. No matter what size shot you are spraying it still yeilds hp. Do a dyno pull with no jet changes.Just change the opener solenoid out.Then see if it takes away or adds any hP according to juts the removal off the opener.

Now ofcourse you can fine tune the loss out with jet changes.But that will prove the restriction.
Dave