Just like the title says, what all do I need. I know there are companys that sell a convertion kit but I don't think they offer everything needed. So please list everything needed to go from my dry kit w/ all the safety items to a wet kit w/ all the safety items.

I also have a motor/dry nitrous tune on my car which will be changed soon. Now, will I be able to have a GOOD motor tune and with the wet kit I'll be safe to spray 150 shot on like a 12.8-13.0 A/F w/ 27-28 deg of timing?

Should I stay with my .40 gapped TR6's?
Mods now:
FFHP forged LS6 347
Stage 1+ LS6 heads
TSP 228R cam
Spec stage 3
Kooks LT's w/ high flow cats
SVO 30lb injectors w/ racetronix plug and play system

 

We have a Dry to Wet Conversion kit. If you look at the details of it you'll see what comes with it. As far as the other items, a bottle heater is a real good idea on a wet kit as is a FPSS (or a dry kit for that matter). I'm assuming you already have a window switch. Here's a LINK to the kit.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,
Matt

 

I hope you've seen some of the intake explosion videos. I wouldn't use the word safe when talking about a wet kit on an LS1.
You will not have to change your NA tune to run a wet kit. The wet kit allows you to tune your N2O system independant of the NA tune by changing fuel jets.
You will HAVE to run richer with a wet kit because of fuel distribution error that you don't get with a dry system. If your average AFR is 13.0 then your leanest cylinder may be 14.0:1 and that cylinder will not survive much time at that AFR on the bottle.
Bottom line is you can't tune as agressively with a wet kit, but you will get the benefit of a cooler charge shifting the torque peak down even further.
Be warned that if you float the valves while using a wet kit the chance of intake backfire is high.

 

Thanks for the replys...I'm well aware of the dangers of wet kits. I do have an automatic bottle heater along with BMN window switch and micro switch along with a digital pressure gauge and blow down tube taggin along is a automatic bottle opener. The thing I do not like is with a dry kit I cannot get that agressive with my N/A tune becuase of the dry kit...I want the best of both worlds. So I figured I could get that with the wet kit since I can due a rich tune by adjusting the wet jetting and then when it's off I could have an agressive 12.8-13.0 A/F on the motor.

I know I'll need a FPSS...what else can I get to make it safe? My RPM limiter is at 6800, I plan on shifting at 6400-6500 with the window switch being at no higher thatn 6400.

Anyway, any other suggestions or questions would be awsome.

 

Yeah, it would save work and money to work with your present dry system.

In case you didn't know, you can vary the amount of fuel added while on the bottle by varying the distance between your nozzle and the MAF wires. A closer distance is richer. A further distance is leaner. The aiming also has an effect. Aiming straight for the wires will add more fuel. Aiming around or to the side of the wires addes less fuel.

It is also possible to handle your fueling by PCM tuning only and bypass the MAF completely. By using a CTS tricker to control fueling while on the bottle you would be using the coolant temp vs PE table to add the extra fuel for the bottle. The tricker allows you to access areas of this table normally unused like the area at and above 240*F.

Just letting you know there are more options on the table.

 

We carry a wet to dry conversion from NX.This kit comes with there 300 hp lifetime warrenty solenoid ,shark nozzle, jets and fittings. Oh yeah we just picked up the NOS line so we have there conversion kit also.

I personally like the ease of the wet system. There are more wet single nozzle system people than dry due to the better torque and the avalibilty to make the hp easier. White2001s10 is obviously a hardcore dry guy.You will find that there are people for bioth sides.Both systems are just as safe as the other when used correctly.The dry however will normally not produce as much damage if something goes wrong.. I have been spraying wet and dry systems on cars for years. I have not once blown a intake off my personal car or a customers. Now dont get me wrong. I like the dry to but both systems have there place...
I would suggest a timming tuner in order to run the best timming for motor and nitrous

Like stated above if you have the tuning capabilities there is more you can do to your dry system.
Dave

 

Check out Dyno Tune Nitrous, their a sponsor here and they have a dry to wet conversion kit and I believe there on sale right now. Dean is a great guy to work with and they have excellent customer service.

 

Thanks everyone, really appreciate ur responces.

White2001s10, due to the TSP lid I have it's pretty close to the MAF. My motor A/F is 12.5 till 4400 and then richens up to 12.2 at 6800. When the dry kit kicks on at 3000 it's 12.2 till 4400 and then richens to 11.8 till 6600. I would say it's 6-8 inches from the MAF and letting it spray with the lid off it fills the entire neck with nitrous before it reaches the MAF...good nozzle. I will talk to my tuner and see what he thinks what u said.

Dave, I'll take a look to see what u have but I want a kit from dry to wet. I'm not too worried about blowing my intake or whatever because if something happens then it will be my falt, I will have all the safety items to make it work right. Like u pretty much stated, if u do it right then ur chances are very slim, just look at ur safety record.

LS1-SS, thanks for ur suggestion. I have the Dynotune dry kit and this is the 2nd time I've had issues with thier noids. I'm going to go with a different company. Everything else I have bought from them ROCKS!

 

Dave, I see on ur website NX offers a dry to wet kit...since I'm wanting to switch to another dry noid how much would u offer me the conversion kit + a NX nitrous noid + FPSS + a smooth SLP bellow? I'd also like to get ur wet noid bracket but do u know if it'll work with my AMW catch can mounted at the same location?

I also see u have ur LS1 plate system, what give a more consistant power from a wet nozzle to ur plate system? $225 added to the other stuff I need is a lil pricey for me but if it's worth it then I'll get it.

The noid mount that attaches to the MAF, I cannot find that on ur site for some reason...

 

His computer guy is slacking . Nice part seen it on 2 cars already.. Why run another nitrous noid?

Ricky

 

maybe safety like the 5177,just in case one sticks open. you have another to stop the flow. this can be good right? how does this differ from noids that i can use with progressive contollers?

 

Rick, I don't know why but the 2 noids that I've had with this Dynotune kit seemed not to open all the way. The first time this happend I used a friends Compucar noid and it was a night and day difference. I sent back the first noid w/o taking it apart and Dean said there was a cooper wire that wasn't letting it open all the way so he sent me a brand new noid...AWSOME. I now have it installed with a 100 jet...same thing but this time I put in a nitrous filter attached to the nitrous noid. It acts like less than a 50 shot...light spray. I took it apart and it's totally clean. I then put on my friends compucar noid again and...night and day difference. I'm not saying that Dynotune noids are bad. I love everything I have bought from Dean, awsome customer service. Maybe it's just me but I seem to have trouble with thier noids. So I'm wanting to go with a different company w/ a wet shot.

Z28viperkiller, I planed on adding another noid but just hadn't yet. I didn't know there was a difference in the noids from a regular system to a progressive controlled system...I thought they were the same noids because I had heard the progressive shots are harder on the noid because of the fast opening and closing of the noids plus I hadn't seen and specified "progressive controled" noids for sale anywhere.

 

You need to make sure that the noids are the same size, could be the compucar noid hase a larger orifice cause more flow. We could upgrade you to the larger solenoid as that has a ton of flow...

Dan

 

Hey...Dan (thought ur name was Dean), I was wondering when u were gonna stop by. PLEASE don't think I'm ******* the DynoTune system...I love everything from ur company. I think it's just my luck cuz everyone else who has ur kit or a NOS (close to the same noids) has never had trouble. i believe the orfice is bigger on the Compucar noids which I figured that would make a bigger shot. To me and a couple of other guys who have rode in my car or drove it thinks it's not hitting like it should BUT I've also heard that about NOS noids, I guess I'm just too picky.

 

There's really no need for the backup solenoid on a wet system, I think that is mainly a dry thing. If you are going to switch to the NX solenoids you will be able to use them with a progressive controller with out problems due to the pulsing. However, a lot of our customers that are using the progressive controllers will go ahead and send the solenoids in for routine maintenance usually at the end of their racing season. This is mainly just a precautionary measure, most of the solenoids look good when we take them apart.

 

I have used the NOS prog. controller for over a year now and i love it.It truly is the key to going fast on the street and its adjustability makes it a great tuning tool at the track.NOS recommends using a backup noid on the nitrous, as the added pulsing tends to tear up the plungers causing leaks.I have not tried the other brands of noids,but i recently learned that the larger solenoids(cheater) take the abuse much better.I was tearing up the smaller ones in about 3-4 bottles.As easy as it is to rebuild most solenoids,I would have to recommend it as part of regular maintence.By the way, the TR6s will be fine,maybe .035. Good luck.