Best noid to pulse with?
01-12-2006, 06:41 PM
#81
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Ok double teamers. First, I never said all Pro guys run staged dry, and I run in Pro Sportsman, but realise these guys are in the real Pro classes. Just because I post some of my early numbers and dynos, does not mean I haven't done any big hits. Ok, I am not doing 300hp per stage, however, I'll bet you (Ricky) one of your new FJO's that the same basic type tuning principal is being had by us little 200/300 (yes mine is being set-up for a total of 300?) total shot multi stage guys and the big dogs? 10.5 Outlaw guys, tuning secrets?
Robert
Robert
please don't take this the wrong way, but nobody is going to post their tuning secrets on the Internet. There are some good articles I've come across about plug reading, but you can rest assured that if you read about it on the Internet, it's old news.
Mike Castallena has wideband 02's in each header primary, and I think he's one of the few, if not the only, N20 cars using them as a tuning tool. I'd imagine they go a long way to tuning the car early in the run.
The only tuning secret is to keep it simple and take it slow. Make one change at a time and put fresh plugs in it when you make a tuning change if you're not 100% of the change.
01-12-2006, 07:07 PM
#82
Originally Posted by Ben R
These guys spray more in one kit than you do total. There are spikes. The Pro-Modified stuff is all wet kit. Nobody is running fuel injection AFAIK. Speedtech will have it on the Pro-Street car this year last I heard. Pat Musi has been using Fuel Injection for a while now pretty successfully. They've done a lot of testing with it for some of the manufacturers, and have found some cool stuff out in the process. If I hadn't been sworn to secrecy I could share them, but they aren't my secrets to tell. I'm not sure how much racing he'll be doing this year though. I haven't talked with those guys in a few weeks.
This is a picture of a kit the guys over at Speedtech did. That's a 4-Stage Dry manifold. I would assume we can expect to see that setup on their Pro-Street car this season. The guys at Speedtech are bad dudes!!!
This is a picture of a kit the guys over at Speedtech did. That's a 4-Stage Dry manifold. I would assume we can expect to see that setup on their Pro-Street car this season. The guys at Speedtech are bad dudes!!!
Robert
01-12-2006, 07:09 PM
#83
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There are still only a few guys in Pro-Street using Dry nitrous. It's slowly catching on.
That Pro-Street manifold will have anywhere from 800 - 1000 sprayed through it. It just depends.
That Pro-Street manifold will have anywhere from 800 - 1000 sprayed through it. It just depends.
01-13-2006, 08:43 AM
#85
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Ok double teamers. First, I never said all Pro guys run staged dry, and I run in Pro Sportsman, but realise these guys are in the real Pro classes. Just because I post some of my early numbers and dynos, does not mean I haven't done any big hits. Ok, I am not doing 300hp per stage, however, I'll bet you (Ricky) one of your new FJO's that the same basic type tuning principal is being had by us little 200/300 (yes mine is being set-up for a total of 300?) total shot multi stage guys and the big dogs? 10.5 Outlaw guys, tuning secrets?
Robert
Robert
cheerrrsss
Ricky
01-13-2006, 09:31 AM
#86
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As far as I know there are very few EFI pro cars (Musi, and Ryan Hargett are the only ones that come to mind), and both of them are running dry. And yes, they both have found a lot of interesting things regarding EFI and very high hp dry systems. However, last time I knew of Musi is still hurting quite a few parts trying to get things under control. Hargett is doind ok, but not as fast as he could be once he gets his setup under control. It's good to see that Speedtech is going to try EFI for a change, I'm sure Shannon will get it figured out. I guess the really interesting question is will the car run faster or slower than what his current setup is running (carbs and wet).
Robert- Sorry, wasn't meaning to double team you, lol. But there just isn't any valid comparison between Pro Mod/Street and any of today's street cars. And like Ben said, if you can find any tuning secrets on the net or otherwise then it is because people are trying other things already.
Robert- Sorry, wasn't meaning to double team you, lol. But there just isn't any valid comparison between Pro Mod/Street and any of today's street cars. And like Ben said, if you can find any tuning secrets on the net or otherwise then it is because people are trying other things already.
01-13-2006, 12:18 PM
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Had another ? from way back in the thread after the coils got hot did they work after they cooled down?
Originally Posted by NXJeremy
The fuel solenoid did it around the 4 min. area, I didn't see when the nitrous solenoid did it. Keep in mind, that was pretty much constant progressive use for 4min. straight and it didn't melt the coil. Another thing that was interesting was that when the fuel solenoid was taken apart it looked almost new, which was surprising.
On a side note, I ment to put it in my earlier post. The seats in the aluminum nitrous solenoids are pressed in and are made from steel so they will seal great in the long run. The fuel noids are machined into the aluminum base since the fuel pressures are no where near that of nitrous pressures. The aluminum seat and the softer material used in the fuel pistons combine to make a great seal, as well as work very well during progressive use.
On a side note, I ment to put it in my earlier post. The seats in the aluminum nitrous solenoids are pressed in and are made from steel so they will seal great in the long run. The fuel noids are machined into the aluminum base since the fuel pressures are no where near that of nitrous pressures. The aluminum seat and the softer material used in the fuel pistons combine to make a great seal, as well as work very well during progressive use.
01-13-2006, 12:34 PM
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Sorry we got so far off topic (kinda left the ballpark didn't we, lol). To answer your question, yes, the solenoids worked perfect once we let them cool down for 5-10min. When we took them apart the piston material didn't even look beat up either.
01-13-2006, 09:14 PM
#90
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
Curious as to how this bet will go? How can you compare the hit on the convertor of 100 hp to a 300+ being the same. Robert I was not knocking your tuning ability to have a clean torque curve. Simpleing stating their is no comparison between a street car playing with the nitrous and a pro using more on the launch then most street cars like yours use completely. Not to mention the cubic inches difference in the engines.Now what would Robert be doing with a progressive controller... The magic ball says. "WET, is in your future"... lol NEW thread to be start. Did not mean to hijack this one.
cheerrrsss
Ricky
cheerrrsss
Ricky
You say how can you compare a 100 hit to a 300 hit to convertor as being the same (no convertor here). Once, again I didn't say hits were the same, I said tuning principals. Now what I am doing with a progressive, well, I am going to have my 3rd stage dry set-up to be able to be switched to a DP, yes a wet. It's going to be like a street/strip test bed. The 3rd stage DP will be on a progressive and I am going to see how big I can go from 5100 rpm to red line. My point of the above is small time or big time nitrous, you've got to be able to get it to the ground and not break parts or blow motor, that's what I am talking about tuning principals, to make it all work and go as fast as you can with what you have. 
Robert
01-13-2006, 09:24 PM
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If you dont mind me asking with an fjo why not just run the hole system on a progressive DP
Originally Posted by Robert56
You can pm me for my address to send the new FJO. You say how can you compare a 100 hit to a 300 hit to convertor as being the same (no convertor here). Once, again I didn't say hits were the same, I said tuning principals. Now what I am doing with a progressive, well, I am going to have my 3rd stage dry set-up to be able to be switched to a DP, yes a wet. It's going to be like a street/strip test bed. The 3rd stage DP will be on a progressive and I am going to see how big I can go from 5100 rpm to red line. My point of the above is small time or big time nitrous, you've got to be able to get it to the ground and not break parts or blow motor, that's what I am talking about tuning principals, to make it all work and go as fast as you can with what you have.
Robert
You say how can you compare a 100 hit to a 300 hit to convertor as being the same (no convertor here). Once, again I didn't say hits were the same, I said tuning principals. Now what I am doing with a progressive, well, I am going to have my 3rd stage dry set-up to be able to be switched to a DP, yes a wet. It's going to be like a street/strip test bed. The 3rd stage DP will be on a progressive and I am going to see how big I can go from 5100 rpm to red line. My point of the above is small time or big time nitrous, you've got to be able to get it to the ground and not break parts or blow motor, that's what I am talking about tuning principals, to make it all work and go as fast as you can with what you have. Robert
01-13-2006, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
You can pm me for my address to send the new FJO. You say how can you compare a 100 hit to a 300 hit to convertor as being the same (no convertor here). Once, again I didn't say hits were the same, I said tuning principals. Now what I am doing with a progressive, well, I am going to have my 3rd stage dry set-up to be able to be switched to a DP, yes a wet. It's going to be like a street/strip test bed. The 3rd stage DP will be on a progressive and I am going to see how big I can go from 5100 rpm to red line. My point of the above is small time or big time nitrous, you've got to be able to get it to the ground and not break parts or blow motor, that's what I am talking about tuning principals, to make it all work and go as fast as you can with what you have.
Robert
You say how can you compare a 100 hit to a 300 hit to convertor as being the same (no convertor here). Once, again I didn't say hits were the same, I said tuning principals. Now what I am doing with a progressive, well, I am going to have my 3rd stage dry set-up to be able to be switched to a DP, yes a wet. It's going to be like a street/strip test bed. The 3rd stage DP will be on a progressive and I am going to see how big I can go from 5100 rpm to red line. My point of the above is small time or big time nitrous, you've got to be able to get it to the ground and not break parts or blow motor, that's what I am talking about tuning principals, to make it all work and go as fast as you can with what you have. Robert
01-13-2006, 09:51 PM
#93
Originally Posted by Ben R
Hurting parts is just a part of racing in classes like Pro-Street and Pro-Modified. Most of the teams can change pistons in about 35 minutes and complete engines in about 45. To be competitive in those classes you have to be on the edge and sometimes you just go a tad bit too far.
Robert
01-13-2006, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Very true, but you can't win if ya break mid track. I wish I could play with the big boys, though.
Robert
Robert
01-16-2006, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Well, I think I have more options running multi stage. No triple stage progressers on the market, yet.
Robert
Robert
Ricky
