Almost everything I read says to use teflon paste, but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Has anyone got a source? I read that you can use thread locker, but if you had to change something, how hard would that be to break loose?

 

I usually use threadlocker. It works great. Its no big deal to break loose normally...and if you get one that is stubborn just use some heat on it.

 

Either will work. You should be able to find Teflon Paste at any auto parts store.

Matt

 

Permatex teflon paste comes in really small tubes. (enough for a small install) Gm sells it in huge tubes also, the better way to go in my opinion is the GM teflon sealer although a little goes a long way. The gm tube will last a lifetime of installs of pipe threads. Just remember AN threads=no sealer just oil the threads, and don't overtorque the AN, its easy to do.

 

any plumbing supply center should have it, i know for a fact ace has it too

 

I went to advance auto parts and they didn't have a clue and I tried a couple of hardware stores and no luck, so I'll either go to GM or use thread locker. Thanks everyone for your replies.

 

What about "Pipe Thread Compound, TFE Paste" will this work?

 

yes, TFE PASTE will work, if you can not find anything in your area just use a thread sealer loctite, blue or RED, NEVER use GREEN648 or sleeve seal, unless all other fail.
Ricky

 

You should be able to find the past at Lowe's or Home Depot in the plumbing department. Use that or thread locker. Remember to not use any on the AN fittings, just tighten them up but don't try to get them as tight as possible (read- overtighten).

 

The ONLY reason I dont use teflon paste is because its white. I HATE when im doing and install on a direct port or some other nice install and the exposed threads on all my fittings have white stuff sticking out. I end going back and cleaning it all...lol.

 

Rickey & Jeremy----- Is this right to lube the AN threads with oil or some other lubricnt? When removing some of my AN fittings I could see small amounts of what I think was the anodizing (almost like dust).

My thought is some lube of some type on the threads would have kept this from happening. I hope this is not enough to cause a solenoid to stick.

What is the torque spec. for #3 and #4 AN fittings????

Thanks,
Terry

 

I have never oiled my AN fittings. I know on aircraft its a no no due to possibl contamination of whatever system you are working with. And we dont have a problem.

However...on very large AN fittings you can have a possibilty of galling after looseining tighteneing a fitting repeatedly. Oil would help that. But I have generally only seen that on -12 and up.

I think if you just carefully tighten the -3 -4 and -6 fittings we generally use in the nitrous world...no lube is necessary. Ill see if I can find standard Tq for the sizes. But dont forget if you really wanted to TQ the an fitting youll need a crows foot and it will need to be at a 90 degree angle to the TQ wrench.

 

your right, the AN lines I have been dealing with are huge dirt track late model, fuel and drysump oiling system fittings. A lot bigger than nitrous stuff. I just assumed all AN would be affected, but now see your point, thanks 383!

 

yeah...very large fuel and oil lines the oiling of the threads will help your AN stuff last a long time.

If you have ever had a -12 An fitting gall up on you half way as you are LOOSENING it....it sucks. Nothing you can do but CRANK down on the sucker just to get it apart o you can replace everything

Large stainless An is even worse. I have had them lock up so tight they were not ever coming apart...ever.

 

I always hate it when nitrous refill stations overtorque my little nitrous feed line bottle nut and ruin the an fitting.
It happens every other time I go to some statons. I should own stock in bottle nuts.

 

Usually in a small white tube called PST by permatex

 

This is a good thread, I like the info that's getting passed on here. Thanks guys

 

Terry - As has already been stated by other here. The oiling of the thread isn't really necessary on the smaller AN stuff. As for Tq settings, I normally just get it as tight as I can with my fingers and then tighten it 1/2 to 2/3 turn, do it this way I rarely ever have one leak on me but if it does it just takes a hair more of a turn to stop the leaking. Don't know exact Tq specs though.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I would think a light lube would be good but I don't know and that is why I am asking.

383LQ4SS: If you can find torque specs that would be great. Of course we will need to know if they are for dry of lubed fittings, and if lubed what kind of lube. And yes I do have crows foot wrenches.

Torque specs are great cause everyone's idea of sung-tight-etc. is different.

 

Terry...I have looked...and I havnet found any. I personally have never seen them but most manufacturers will have a general Tq. I have yet to see it. Sorry. Ill keep an eye out and post it if I find it.