Purge sticking I think!
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On The Tree
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From: Newport News, VA
Purge sticking I think! I had my Nitrous Express kit professionally installed yesterday. Being a little nervous, I wanted to test everything myself before I actually sprayed it. First, I tested the heater....check, then I tested the bottle opener.....check, then I tried the purge, I heard the pssst when I pushed the button, but didn't see anything, so I figured it was air in the line, so I tried it again then the damn thing wouldn't quit...I had to close the bottle for it to stop spraying. The guy that installed the kit said I will need another purge line (line routed to the windshield) because it wasn't the correct one. I did notice after I closed the bottle, the purge line to the windshield popped off the end of the purge noid. Could this be the reason? I bought the kit used, but had the fine NX sponcers on this board rebuilt the noids, so i know it's not the noids.
Another thing.....the kit came with a filter. Could it be possible I connected it backwards from the way the previous owner had it thus instead of traping the crap in the filter it actually pushed it through the noids. I have the purge noid mounted directly inline with the nitrous noid. Line from bottle, then nitrous noid, then purge noid. I want to spray the damn thing but it has given me nothing but hell. The car idles like crap bacuse of the TR6 and now this...
Thanks for the help.
Another thing.....the kit came with a filter. Could it be possible I connected it backwards from the way the previous owner had it thus instead of traping the crap in the filter it actually pushed it through the noids. I have the purge noid mounted directly inline with the nitrous noid. Line from bottle, then nitrous noid, then purge noid. I want to spray the damn thing but it has given me nothing but hell. The car idles like crap bacuse of the TR6 and now this...
Thanks for the help. Definitly sounds like stuck solenoid. Did the installer crack the bottle open w/ the
line hooked up? The best way to get rid of debris in the line is before final hook-up
to the noid to open and close bottle quickly. This blows any debris out open end of line.I'd look to the installer to check the problem.
Hawk
line hooked up? The best way to get rid of debris in the line is before final hook-up
to the noid to open and close bottle quickly. This blows any debris out open end of line.I'd look to the installer to check the problem.
Hawk
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From: Newport News, VA
Originally Posted by 227Hawk
Definitly sounds like stuck solenoid. Did the installer crack the bottle open w/ the
line hooked up? The best way to get rid of debris in the line is before final hook-up
to the noid to open and close bottle quickly. This blows any debris out open end of line.I'd look to the installer to check the problem.
Hawk
line hooked up? The best way to get rid of debris in the line is before final hook-up
to the noid to open and close bottle quickly. This blows any debris out open end of line.I'd look to the installer to check the problem.
Hawk
The guy saw me pull up and meet me at my car door, so I was kinda hard to turn around. 
FormerVendor
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Wichita Falls,Tx
Definately check the solenoids for debris as well as check the lines. Also, you might want to check the push button to make sure the contacts are still ok and not melted together (it has happened before).
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From: Newport News, VA
Originally Posted by NXJeremy
Definately check the solenoids for debris as well as check the lines. Also, you might want to check the push button to make sure the contacts are still ok and not melted together (it has happened before).
Okay thanks, and I will do. I noticed on NX's website, the the filter (NX-15607
) is cleanable. I know this is a silly question, but how do you clean it? It's beats the 50 plus dollars for a replacememt. Also, what's the best way to clean the noids?
FormerVendor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 864
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From: Wichita Falls,Tx
The end of the filter (that looks like a bug hex nut) will unthread from the body. Inside is a spring and a filter that you can wash with warm water. Make sure that the filter and inside of the filter housing is completely dry before you reassemble it.
To clean the solenoids you need to take them apart. To do this you start by removing the nut on top of the can. Then remove the can and coil as one piece. This leaves the tower and base, to remove the tower you can either use a solenoid wrench (which most people don't have) or you can use the nuts that thread onto the tower. To do it this way you will need 2 of the tower nuts. Thread the first one on to the tower about mid way down on the threads, then thread the second nut down until it is snuggly against the first nut. Take a wrench and try to remove the lower of the two nuts. This will break the tower loosse from the base. When you remove the tower from the base there will be piston, o-ring, and a spring inside. Be very careful not to loose the spring (they're small and can get away from you pretty easily if you're not careful when removing the tower from the base). Once it's all apart you can clean everything up and reassmble it. Make sure that the spring is sitting vertical in the tower when you reinstall the piston/spring, and make sure not to pinch the o-ring when reinstalling the tower.
To clean the solenoids you need to take them apart. To do this you start by removing the nut on top of the can. Then remove the can and coil as one piece. This leaves the tower and base, to remove the tower you can either use a solenoid wrench (which most people don't have) or you can use the nuts that thread onto the tower. To do it this way you will need 2 of the tower nuts. Thread the first one on to the tower about mid way down on the threads, then thread the second nut down until it is snuggly against the first nut. Take a wrench and try to remove the lower of the two nuts. This will break the tower loosse from the base. When you remove the tower from the base there will be piston, o-ring, and a spring inside. Be very careful not to loose the spring (they're small and can get away from you pretty easily if you're not careful when removing the tower from the base). Once it's all apart you can clean everything up and reassmble it. Make sure that the spring is sitting vertical in the tower when you reinstall the piston/spring, and make sure not to pinch the o-ring when reinstalling the tower.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: Newport News, VA
Originally Posted by NXJeremy
The end of the filter (that looks like a bug hex nut) will unthread from the body. Inside is a spring and a filter that you can wash with warm water. Make sure that the filter and inside of the filter housing is completely dry before you reassemble it.
To clean the solenoids you need to take them apart. To do this you start by removing the nut on top of the can. Then remove the can and coil as one piece. This leaves the tower and base, to remove the tower you can either use a solenoid wrench (which most people don't have) or you can use the nuts that thread onto the tower. To do it this way you will need 2 of the tower nuts. Thread the first one on to the tower about mid way down on the threads, then thread the second nut down until it is snuggly against the first nut. Take a wrench and try to remove the lower of the two nuts. This will break the tower loosse from the base. When you remove the tower from the base there will be piston, o-ring, and a spring inside. Be very careful not to loose the spring (they're small and can get away from you pretty easily if you're not careful when removing the tower from the base). Once it's all apart you can clean everything up and reassmble it. Make sure that the spring is sitting vertical in the tower when you reinstall the piston/spring, and make sure not to pinch the o-ring when reinstalling the tower.
To clean the solenoids you need to take them apart. To do this you start by removing the nut on top of the can. Then remove the can and coil as one piece. This leaves the tower and base, to remove the tower you can either use a solenoid wrench (which most people don't have) or you can use the nuts that thread onto the tower. To do it this way you will need 2 of the tower nuts. Thread the first one on to the tower about mid way down on the threads, then thread the second nut down until it is snuggly against the first nut. Take a wrench and try to remove the lower of the two nuts. This will break the tower loosse from the base. When you remove the tower from the base there will be piston, o-ring, and a spring inside. Be very careful not to loose the spring (they're small and can get away from you pretty easily if you're not careful when removing the tower from the base). Once it's all apart you can clean everything up and reassmble it. Make sure that the spring is sitting vertical in the tower when you reinstall the piston/spring, and make sure not to pinch the o-ring when reinstalling the tower.
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I have seen this happen alot. It seems alot of folks skip the whole line purging routine after they install the kit and a noid gets hung open. Kinda scary to think folks miss this step. It only take a microscopic piece of something to make the noi leak. If the noid was hissing like it was wide open then you have other problems! Check the wiring.....and switch as Jeremy said....filters are cheap insurance 
Dan
Dan
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Looks like you got great advise! I would like to add I always install a Relay to control the soleniod. Many of the Light duty switchs used are not up to the task of even controling a Purge Soleniod. It is like $20-$30 for a good relay with harness from any of you Guys here How much is it to fill the bottle? I know here N2O Cost more then alot of places and it is $75(with tax) for a 15Lbs bottle 
(The reason is they only sell Med Grade here and it is controled)
An easy way to tell if you have an electrilcal issue or a Soleniod problem is to pop the coil off the soleniod. Slowly turn the N2O back on. If the purge is leaking there is junk in the sol. seat and you need to clean them. If all is well slide the coil back on and turn the master power on. If the Purge goes off it is Electrical
Good luck!
How much is it to fill the bottle? I know here N2O Cost more then alot of places and it is $75(with tax) for a 15Lbs bottle (The reason is they only sell Med Grade here and it is controled) An easy way to tell if you have an electrilcal issue or a Soleniod problem is to pop the coil off the soleniod. Slowly turn the N2O back on. If the purge is leaking there is junk in the sol. seat and you need to clean them. If all is well slide the coil back on and turn the master power on. If the Purge goes off it is Electrical
Good luck!
Yea, expensive, as i had a purge noid stick partialy close/open and drained my 15lb bottle. Mine was contaminate based. washing my car, water would run down the purge line and sit in the noid and slowly corroded plunger, cleaned it up and worked fine. Now i always put a high spot in my purge lines to trap water, cause I usually forget to tape or cap purge nozzle. You live you learn.
Robert
Robert