raven_450

iTrader: (3)

for the main power directly from battery what amp fuse do i use? i have a 30 in there but everytime i try and spray it blows. my buddy used a 50 in his kit on his mustang but im thinking thats not good? its a cold fusion wet kit running off just a wot switch at the moment

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

large or small noids. small should only need a 20 but the large ones need to have a 30+ to handle the spike max pull is not 30 but the spike is over that. Now if you are running everthing through a wot switch that could be some of the problem. all nitrous system should use a relay, in my opinion. let me know if you need a drawing for your car.
Did you follow the instructions for that perticular kit.?
Ricky

raven_450

iTrader: (3)

bought the kid used i acctuely followed the wiring diagram u sent me i do have it wired with a relay sorry for the misunderstanding. Its power from battery to relay then out to everything else (im horrible at wiring so i just followed the picture lol)

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

You may want to run parallel hot and ground wires, and
parallel fuses (one per hot) if the current draw is really
over 30A. You can get 30A circuit breakers (and lower
ones) too. Somewhere there ought to be an Internet
automotive wiring chart, amps vs gauge. Hmm....

Load Carrying Capacities (see table below)
The following chart is a guideline of ampacity or copper wire current carrying capacity following the Handbook of Electronic Tables and Formulas for American Wire Gauge. As you might guess, the rated ampacities are just a rule of thumb. In careful engineering the insulation temperature limit, thickness, thermal conductivity, and air convection and temperature should all be taken into account. The Maximum Amps for Power Transmission uses the 700 circular mils per amp rule, which is very very conservative. The Maximum Amps for Chassis Wiring is also a conservative rating, but is meant for wiring in air, and not in a bundle. For short lengths of wire, such as is used in battery packs you should trade off the resistance and load with size, weight, and flexibility.

AWG gauge Diameter Inches Diameter mm Ohms per 1000 ft Ohms per km Maximum amps for chassis wiring Maximum amps for power transmission
OOOO 0.46 11.684 0.049 0.16072 380 302
OOO 0.4096 10.40384 0.0618 0.202704 328 239
OO 0.3648 9.26592 0.0779 0.255512 283 190
0 0.3249 8.25246 0.0983 0.322424 245 150
1 0.2893 7.34822 0.1239 0.406392 211 119
2 0.2576 6.54304 0.1563 0.512664 181 94
3 0.2294 5.82676 0.197 0.64616 158 75
4 0.2043 5.18922 0.2485 0.81508 135 60
5 0.1819 4.62026 0.3133 1.027624 118 47
6 0.162 4.1148 0.3951 1.295928 101 37
7 0.1443 3.66522 0.4982 1.634096 89 30
8 0.1285 3.2639 0.6282 2.060496 73 24
9 0.1144 2.90576 0.7921 2.598088 64 19
10 0.1019 2.58826 0.9989 3.276392 55 15
11 0.0907 2.30378 1.26 4.1328 47 12
12 0.0808 2.05232 1.588 5.20864 41 9.3
13 0.072 1.8288 2.003 6.56984 35 7.4
14 0.0641 1.62814 2.525 8.282 32 5.9
15 0.0571 1.45034 3.184 10.44352 28 4.7
16 0.0508 1.29032 4.016 13.17248 22 3.7

According to this I think you want a 16AWG wire on a
20A fuse feed, 14AWG for 30A, 12AWG for 40A and
10AWG for 50A fuse capacity. Do not go and put a 50A
fuse on 16AWG, you might as well save the 3 bucks
on the fuse and wait for the insulation to melt...

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

An easy and practical rule of thumb to go by when selecting wire size is simply to pick a wire that matches or is one gauge size larger than the wire of the component being supplied. My NX noids have 16 gauge coil wires. So in that case you would simply run one 14ga wire to power both the fuel and nitrous noids and it will more than suffice....along with a 30 amp fuse as Jimmy pointed out.

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Ok if you got a drawing from me and you are blowing a 30amp fuse, somethings up. lol.
do the noids work if not, do the smell burned.?
Blown fuses is usually just a simple oopps.
give me call if you did not figure it out.
888-463-2781
on Monday.
Ricky

raven_450

iTrader: (3)

found the problem (not ur fault ricky lol) when my cable guide was hitting my wot switch it was knocking the middle wire off but not all the way off so i guess from it bouncing on and off it caused the fuse to blow i just crushed the spade connector to the wot no more blown fuses lol thanks for all the help guys 3 months later finally have nitrous working ( 2 months it was in the shop though)

now i have to try and finish my plugs and wires today lol