i was told by MTI that ls1's were notorious for not liking dry kits. they told me that they wouldn't even install them on customers cars on request.
well, mine was already on that car at this time when i heard this and didn't have any problems so i blew it off. it was just 100 shot w/ all the precautions: colder plugs, tuned, good bottle pressure. ect. DAMN, if it wasn't a week later that my whole motor was trashed at hrp. im still not sure what happened. i heard a pop and the car shut off at 1000ft. two rods through the block. it was bad. can yall explain what could of possibly happened? the motor wasn't burning oil. it hadn't been abused, and kit was only on for about two months (3 full bottles). from what i hear of other people sprayin of stock motors, i didn't think that my 100 would of torn the motor up that quick. obviously i was wrong. have you guys experianced the same issues w/ dry kits???

 

is it a stock car with just a 100 shot or does it have other mods?

 

a4, vig 3200, decent cam, full exhuast and tuned for everything even the gas.

 

What year car, and did you upsize injectors and add a fuel pump? Don't be to quick to blame the dry hit, as I have well over 150 passes running one with less mods than you and has been trouble free.
Robert

 

2000 car.. i put 28lb gm injectors it before the tune

 

Dry kit or wet kit doesn't matter...you have increased cyl pressures. Some people here swear by dry and bad mouth wet all day long...some people here will tell you they'd never do dry simply because it doesn't "hit" as hard. Bottom line is that we need more information. Chances are that you know what broke and may never know why.

 

you need more info from me... or more info on what exactly was going on in the motor at that time.

 

It's hard to do internet diagnostics. You didn't say if you upgraded the fuel pump. It could be as simple as running out of fuel from a weak pump? what total hp wer you running? I have got 480rwhp on dry with 28lb'ers and was going lean, this was with a walbro stock vette pump which stayed at pressure under high demand, and ran outa injector. it could be just something mech let go also. as this does happen. Like Macon said, a little more info would help.
Robert

 

What about fuel pump...man I never had any idea how quickly a stock fuel system gets maxed - not to mention stock pump alone on an FBody affects this stuff. In general, the more info you can put out there the better the chances of getting an explaination.

Edited: What he said^^^^

 

the fuel pump was stock. new fuel filter. the car made 380rwhp on motor. there wasn't a wide band on it, they just took enough timing out to satisfy a 100hp shot. like i said i was on the third bottle when it went, which could indicate that something let go. other than that the car was fine, it never detenated or acted funny it was very smooth on the gas until then. it was at about 5500rmp when it let go.

 

i know when i pulled the motor out, the intake was full of milky colored water, kinda like chocholate milk. is that a backfire/detenation?

 

number 5 piston was turned 45 degrees inside the cylinder.. i had never seen something like that in person. nonetheless it was an expensive image. lol

 

The fuel pump from what I have learned here on tech should have been strong enough if all was running right. If you are running an 4L60E (i'll look again) that 380 might be high fopr the stocker. Sounds like water and oil? How about head gaskets? What pieces were broken? Rod? Wrist pin? Sounds ugly for sure. Hey all it took for me to hook up with LME was a bad cam bearing...I hope you can get MTI or LME to fix you up something nice!! I'm not surre I can give you any answers.

 

the crank took a beating from everything coming apart. 5 & 6 rods were completely demolished, the biggest peice was about 3 inches. the pistons where ok other than where the broken rods hit them. if the motor is running consistantly lean then you more than likely will crack a piston i have heard. It looks as though the rod turned piston 5 at the 45 degree angle in the cylinder as it snapped. the was cam chipped and bent where a rod hit it. the vavles on 5 and 6 were bent. so pretty much nothing was even close to salvageable.

im a sr in highschool and pay for the car myself. wish i was parent sponsered but im not lol. i barrowed a stock motor from friend and put it back together w/ just cam. im going to save up and hopefully in july LME will be building me a motor that will handle more than a 100 kit before i got off to school....

 

I don't think that the factory F-Body fuel pump will pump enough fuel continuously to support 480 rwhp, and I'm pretty sure that your injectors were probably close if not completely maxed out too. I wouldn't have even chanced 100 shot on top of 380 rwhp on motor without upgrading the fuel pump and injectors. It could have been something else, but more than likely the motor went really lean on the spray.

 

well i know for sure that the new motor is going to have plenty of freakin fuel going to it.

 

dont yall think i was really making 480 to the wheels on dry kit.. i figured it being dry that i would be 460 roughly. aren't wet kits more efficient when it comes to make the numbers...

 

When I just had boltons I made 339 RWHP/361 RWTQ on motor, and with a 100 shot dry I made 441 RWHP/540s RWTQ. Depends on what jets you were running whether you were spraying a true 100 rwhp dry shot. I used the jet chart that most others use on here. If you search you can probably find it.

 

it was a .52 pill. it should of been exactly a hundred.

 

The .052 is bigger than a 100 rwhp shot. I'm using a .048 and that was a 102 rwhp shot with a single nozzle NOS 5176 kit that I put on my LS1.