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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 12:22 AM
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I want to build flamethrowers for my truck, but I can't seem to get a straight answer in any other forums. I am about to resort to using a nitrous solenoid which is why I posted here. Essentially I plan on running a propane bottle through a regulator with lines that end at the tips of my exhaust. I want to use a lock solenoid to open the flow of propane to the tips, but I cannot find a 12v solenoid that will allow anything over 2 p.s.i. Will a nitrous solenoid work in this case? As for ignition, I am going to get a 12v ignitor for gas stoves from an RV. I have already had the old style flamethrowers on another truck that kill the motor. I am looking for propane, but I need to know if a nitrous solenoid will work for my application.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 10:40 AM
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The nitrous noid may leak with low psi of the propane, Go with a fuel noid, amp draw will be 3 amps or so. Will open at 100psi. The problem is knowing what pressure the propane is at that you are going to inject into the tips.
Sounds very interesting, going to burn up the road, one way or the other
Ricky
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 10:44 AM
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I feel a KABOOOOM! coming soon.

Why not just put spark plugs at the ends of your exhaust pipes, with a voltage unit to fire them? Thats typically how flame kits work, by burning excess fuel that is in the exhaust.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Nine Ball
I feel a KABOOOOM! coming soon.

Why not just put spark plugs at the ends of your exhaust pipes, with a voltage unit to fire them? Thats typically how flame kits work, by burning excess fuel that is in the exhaust.

I thought with cats in the exhaust system flame throwers wouldn't work? But i guess he didnt say weather he did or didnt have cats. I'm just assuming he does.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 02:19 PM
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I have cats and a fuel injected truck. In order to run the spark plug/unburnt gas thing you need to have two coils and a switch. You must be moving for this to work also. The switch kills the coil at the engine, forcing unburnt fuel/air through the exhaust (your motor is still turning since you are moving), and tells the rear coil, hooked up to the plugs in the exhaust to fire. The unburnt fuel/air combo is then ignited and you have flames. I don't want to remove the cats, nor do I want to kill the motor.

I was hoping to put the solenoid between the bottle and the regulator. A switch in the cab would open the solenoid, sending propane to the regulator (which will be about 50 psi) to a weedburner tip welded to the inside of my exhaust pipe. Next to the tip will be a 12v stove ignitor from a RV.
Will the fuel solenoid work for this application? I believe propane tanks are generally filled to 100 psi, but I am not sure. Will this effect a fuel solenoid?
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 06:26 PM
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Would that cool the solinoid enough to keep it from cooking on long open intervals.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by strokedls1
Would that cool the solinoid enough to keep it from cooking on long open intervals.
I'm not sure what you mean. I don't intend on leaving the solenoid open for more than 5 seconds at a time. Also, the solenoid will be at least 5 feet away from the flames.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 11:54 PM
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The solinoid uses the fuel to cool it, so using a different gas could change its cooling. If it is only 5 seconds bursts then ixt won't be an issue.
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 04:51 PM
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In case anyone is still interested, I found a solenoid on ebay. It is a 12v propane solenoid for generators. It will allow 150 p.si. I am going to take a small 1 gallon propane tank, regulate it down to 80 psi, run that line to the solenoid, from there it will split. I am going to try to find some check valves similar to the spark arrestors on torches and run to each exhaust tip. In each exhaust tip, I will weld a tip from a weed burner about 3 inches from the end with an ignitor from a gas RV stove top. The switch I have is momentary on, so when I flip the switch, it should create a spark as well as tell the solenoid to open. I am fairly new to wiring so I am not sure how to do this. Normally, I would just run a wire from the battery to the switch, and run those wires to the solenoid and ignitors. Can anyone help me find a better way?
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