OK back to the dry problems
A screened MAF will ice over while you're spraying which pushes you far rich and will not burn plugs. Pretty much everything you've said so far makes no sense at all.
If the MAF is de-screened and working correctly with a stock PCM calibration, and you still go lean then you pretty much have to have a fuel delivery problem related to injector DC, or fuel pressure.
Otherwise it could be from a non-stock calibration, in which case you take it back to your tuner, because none of us here have any clue what all is done in the calibration.
If the MAF is de-screened and working correctly with a stock PCM calibration, and you still go lean then you pretty much have to have a fuel delivery problem related to injector DC, or fuel pressure.
Otherwise it could be from a non-stock calibration, in which case you take it back to your tuner, because none of us here have any clue what all is done in the calibration.
Originally Posted by white2001s10
A screened MAF will ice over while you're spraying which pushes you far rich and will not burn plugs. Pretty much everything you've said so far makes no sense at all.
If the MAF is de-screened and working correctly with a stock PCM calibration, and you still go lean then you pretty much have to have a fuel delivery problem related to injector DC, or fuel pressure.
Otherwise it could be from a non-stock calibration, in which case you take it back to your tuner, because none of us here have any clue what all is done in the calibration.
If the MAF is de-screened and working correctly with a stock PCM calibration, and you still go lean then you pretty much have to have a fuel delivery problem related to injector DC, or fuel pressure.
Otherwise it could be from a non-stock calibration, in which case you take it back to your tuner, because none of us here have any clue what all is done in the calibration.
I have burnt plugs on 5 different runs it was always 3 plugs not always the same plugs but always the front two cylinders on either side never cylinder 5,6,7,8 and witch it has never happened on the wet kit this has happened on TR-6 and 8's evrytime it has been back to the tunner it was blamed on the location of the nozzel but know matter where we have put it same story, the last time i ran the car i descreened the MAF and it was better but i will not run my N20 at 13+ afr I am 100% sure that i do not have a fuel delivery problem But anyways Thank you for all your help but I can see its just not worth it for me to run a dry kit I am not a tunner and dont have time to be one right now I will be putting on a direct port so I can turn up the wet and ditch the dry
Thanks.......Greg
dont give up yet. if you ran lean on your n/a tune you wouldnt go out and install a direct port fuel system would you? no you would tune the car. as I posted earlier this issue is easily solved by increasing the P/E table in the rpm area that your having trouble with. it looks like your injector duty cycle is low and you appear to have a good fuel system so you really are in good shape. keep it simple and just keep bumping up the p/e in 5% increments until you get the desired results
Originally Posted by white2001s10
Wow, if you can't even handle a simple tuning problem, then you might want to question stepping up to the direct port. Seriously.
I have been running a wet kit for over 15years My car has a stand alone fuel system and i have been able to tune it at 11.8 flat with 0 problems I want to run a total of 300hp 200 wet 100dry and with out a direct port i care not to run 300hp of fuel through my ls6 intake.
And as far as question my self My car is a DD 3540 pounds NO driver has a 383 allstroke that was built by me a 4l60e also built by me car gets 14mpg and at the track It 60ft in the 30's on drag radials and has run 6.30 in the 1/8 mile on a 175 wet kit So me not knowing anything a bout a dry tune Does that make me stupid???
Originally Posted by koolrayz
dont give up yet. if you ran lean on your n/a tune you wouldnt go out and install a direct port fuel system would you? no you would tune the car. as I posted earlier this issue is easily solved by increasing the P/E table in the rpm area that your having trouble with. it looks like your injector duty cycle is low and you appear to have a good fuel system so you really are in good shape. keep it simple and just keep bumping up the p/e in 5% increments until you get the desired results
Thanks for your help its not that i want to give up I work alot and dont have that much time anymore to spend with the car but i will do as you say I have the new EFI scan and tune and will play with it after hours to figure this out, I will post back later with the results.
Originally Posted by white2001s10
Wow, if you can't even handle a simple tuning problem, then you might want to question stepping up to the direct port. Seriously.
come on now. Hes just asking questions here. He is not the tuner on this car and his tuner does not come on LS1tech much. Jeremy Formato did the tuning on this car and Jeremy has done plenty of dry setups...including all of mine. I have sprayed 300 dry on a highly modded tune..as well as many others. So hes not clueless on this issue. And I am sure J Formato has tried a few things to correct the problem. Someting about his combo is making it difficult.
Greg...what MAF are you using? IS it the small stock one? Or do you have a Z06 or truck larger one?
If its the stock MAF...it really does sound like a placement issue. White can attest to the differences in placement. I think they were blasting the MAF wires directly and getting the car to go pig rich and max the duty cyle just using nozzle placement. You may try to relocate again. Getting a bit closer to the MAF and aiming it more at the MAF. I have no idea really how many spots you tried. But it can be an issue. What intake do you have and where is your nozzle?
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
come on now. Hes just asking questions here. He is not the tuner on this car and his tuner does not come on LS1tech much. Jeremy Formato did the tuning on this car and Jeremy has done plenty of dry setups...including all of mine. I have sprayed 300 dry on a highly modded tune..as well as many others. So hes not clueless on this issue. And I am sure J Formato has tried a few things to correct the problem. Someting about his combo is making it difficult.
Greg...what MAF are you using? IS it the small stock one? Or do you have a Z06 or truck larger one?
If its the stock MAF...it really does sound like a placement issue. White can attest to the differences in placement. I think they were blasting the MAF wires directly and getting the car to go pig rich and max the duty cyle just using nozzle placement. You may try to relocate again. Getting a bit closer to the MAF and aiming it more at the MAF. I have no idea really how many spots you tried. But it can be an issue. What intake do you have and where is your nozzle?
Greg...what MAF are you using? IS it the small stock one? Or do you have a Z06 or truck larger one?
If its the stock MAF...it really does sound like a placement issue. White can attest to the differences in placement. I think they were blasting the MAF wires directly and getting the car to go pig rich and max the duty cyle just using nozzle placement. You may try to relocate again. Getting a bit closer to the MAF and aiming it more at the MAF. I have no idea really how many spots you tried. But it can be an issue. What intake do you have and where is your nozzle?
well i changed the location again I put the nozzel on the bottom of the lid aiming straight up at the roof about 4" in front of the maf, When i first sprayed afr droped to the high 11's then by the 3rd gear shift it was back to 13.1, 2nd spray on the hit 12.2 right after the 3rd shift 13.3, 3rd run on the hit 12.2 and again after the shift 13.2 and every time after the 3rd shift the car lays down so i got off the throttle, On the 4th run i'm pissed and say the hell with it i'm going to stay in it just to see how hight the afr goes, on the hit 12.1 at about 6400rpm it lays down i stayed in it then it hits hard again and right after the 3rd shift it layed down again i stayed in it a sec later it hit hard again afr never went higher than 13.2,
After looking at the runs on the EFI live you can see the maf and injector duty cycle drop right where i feel it lay down and where the afr peeks in the 13.'s on the last run that i stayed in the gas you can see the maf and injectors go down and then back up, Its like the maf isnt seeing the n20 for a sec at the top of the runs but after seeing the last run it like my bottle is surging but its full and stayed at 1000psi during all the runs.
No spark plugs where burnt and after thinking about it we havent burnt any plugs sence the car was retuned a few weeks ago so maybe that problem was fixed
After looking at the runs on the EFI live you can see the maf and injector duty cycle drop right where i feel it lay down and where the afr peeks in the 13.'s on the last run that i stayed in the gas you can see the maf and injectors go down and then back up, Its like the maf isnt seeing the n20 for a sec at the top of the runs but after seeing the last run it like my bottle is surging but its full and stayed at 1000psi during all the runs.
No spark plugs where burnt and after thinking about it we havent burnt any plugs sence the car was retuned a few weeks ago so maybe that problem was fixed
I didn't realise that was J Formato, sorry, he is a good tuner and you should go back and see him. Somethings up, and i am sure if anyone can find the issue, he could. For fun, try another descreened MAF, because of your IAT's it would seem that possibly your maf is not getting the same reading, meaning IAT sensor reads correct, but maybe maf is dirty or faulty. Because you start off with a reasonable a/f then start progressively going lean, try the IAT vs fuel adder, it adds a multiplier ontop of your wot pe multipiler. This type of problem can be difficult to pin point on the computer, but may give some insight on the way to finding issue, don't give up. 
Robert
Robert
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
It doesnt sound like its fixed completely. it maybe safer...but i think something is still going on. Tough to say though.
Is this a wideband you are looking at for AFR?
Is this a wideband you are looking at for AFR?
I wasnt saying the problem was fixed i just meant the buring of the plugs before jeremy saw the car last it would purn plugs,
The last run it felt like a wet kit with a low bottle it would pull then lay out again and again, I am woundering if its not going lean its just not flowing n20 100% of the time,
The maf on the car now is new with no screen i do have another that has a screen i can descreen it and try
Last edited by ChevPower; Mar 20, 2006 at 10:02 PM.
Originally Posted by 227Hawk
Looks like it's going lean then looking for fuel?? Have you checked your fuel filters and pump? Could be debris floating by the pick-up.
Hawk
Hawk
I dont think it is fuel related you can watch the maf reading and it will decrease like there is no n20 or it doesnt see it
Originally Posted by Robert56
I didn't realise that was J Formato, sorry, he is a good tuner and you should go back and see him. Somethings up, and i am sure if anyone can find the issue, he could. For fun, try another descreened MAF, because of your IAT's it would seem that possibly your maf is not getting the same reading, meaning IAT sensor reads correct, but maybe maf is dirty or faulty. Because you start off with a reasonable a/f then start progressively going lean, try the IAT vs fuel adder, it adds a multiplier ontop of your wot pe multipiler. This type of problem can be difficult to pin point on the computer, but may give some insight on the way to finding issue, don't give up.
Robert
Robert
Some people re-clock the MAF and get varied results.
I've always sprayed the MAF wires from relatively close range and never had any problems.
There's also the option of running the dry system without the MAF at all, which should eliminate all problems of this sort.
A competent tuner will have no problem doing this.
Yes Jeremy is a good guy and he said he has only seen one other car besides mine do this. Right now he doesn't know her problem is.
Originally Posted by Robert56
I didn't realise that was J Formato, sorry, he is a good tuner and you should go back and see him. Somethings up, and i am sure if anyone can find the issue, he could. For fun, try another descreened MAF, because of your IAT's it would seem that possibly your maf is not getting the same reading, meaning IAT sensor reads correct, but maybe maf is dirty or faulty. Because you start off with a reasonable a/f then start progressively going lean, try the IAT vs fuel adder, it adds a multiplier ontop of your wot pe multipiler. This type of problem can be difficult to pin point on the computer, but may give some insight on the way to finding issue, don't give up.
Robert
Robert
The last run it felt like a wet kit with a low bottle it would pull then lay out again and again, I am woundering if its not going lean its just not flowing n20 100% of the time
Originally Posted by white2001s10
Which table in EFI-live is the IAT vs fuel adder? I haven't been able to find that one with any tuner so far.
Some people re-clock the MAF and get varied results.
I've always sprayed the MAF wires from relatively close range and never had any problems.
There's also the option of running the dry system without the MAF at all, which should eliminate all problems of this sort.
A competent tuner will have no problem doing this.
Some people re-clock the MAF and get varied results.
I've always sprayed the MAF wires from relatively close range and never had any problems.
There's also the option of running the dry system without the MAF at all, which should eliminate all problems of this sort.
A competent tuner will have no problem doing this.
Robert