I know that HP Tuners has it, but IIRC 2000 and before do not support it? however I think it still shows? Later models it's there for sure, and is enabled. You may be able to reflash computer with a later model bin, then you would have it.
Robert

 

The iat vs fuel adder table is enabled on my bin file on hptuners. I believe it is just on 01 and 02 fbodys.

 

Here's a couple things you can do to help delay, or lean spike. You can go to your Erichment Rate, which is 1.000 stock and bump this up a bit. This will allow PE ratio to be seen quicker, or PE enrichment rate will be met faster.

Also, make sure your PE delay rpm is below your spray rpm, so then pe is starting before the spray hits.

Will this work for your set-up, not totally sure, but I have used these as a lean spike eliminator on mine and should cover your late entry fuel adder vs IAT issue? or maybe your nozzles are two far away and mixing to warmer right away and thus a micro msecond to get cold at MAF?
Robert

 

Ok i did some work on the dry and was able to get a solid 12.1 afr and now we ran into another problem, When both kits is activated it falls on it face meaning i can run the dry it fells good and as soon as i turn on the wet it drops power and the same with runing the wet first at turning on the dry, I have looked at the play backs and dont see anything that sticks out when it looses power and afr drops to 10's, has anybody ran a dry and wet at the same time?

 

yes...i have done a few.

First question...did Jeremy do the Dry nitrous Retard program to automatically pull timing with the dry setup

Second is just an FYI...if you have one bottle..and have the nitrous Tee'd to each nozzle wet/dry stage...the first stage should be dry.

The reason for this is because if you have say a -4 line and are spraying a 150 shot dry...and then try to run a 125 wet....youll need to jet the wet side leaner than it would be needed than if it were just run all by itself. The feed line becomes a huge restriction and messes with the tune when trying to spray that much...this even happens (but to a lesser extent on a -6 line)
If you went wet first...and had your 125 wet tune all squared away at say...11.5 to 1 and then sprayed 150 dry your wet tune would go very rich. And basically thats what you did. Try for around 11 to 11.5 to one

I still wouldnt expect it to fall on its face though even at 10 Af. Does your wideband just stop reading at 10.0 like most? Could that mean that your actually off the scale at like 8 to 1?

If you dont have a -6 line I would probably get one. That lessens the amount of correction youll need for the wet tune.

* you have to tune both kits together due to the shared flow of nitrous betwen the kits causing the wet to go extremely rich

* get a -6 feed line to help lessen that effect.

* youll need to jet the wet kit LEANER as compared to how it would run by itself (once jetted lean do not run wet kit by itself or you really will be lean, it must be run in conjunction with the dry activated)

Hope that helps

Aslo...what fuel are you running?

 

Yep, found that out myself. If you have HPtuners and want the table go to the PCM tuning section and check out Horist's site with all the .bin files. Pluck the stock .bin of your choice and rewrite. The 01-02 files are easier to tune on the F-body anyway.

 

Well i guess i should have gave more info on my set up I have 2 bottles 1 15pound with a 6 feed line for the wet witch is on a low pressure stand alone with 116 NOS fuel I do not pull any timming for the wet kit and the dry is a 10pound bottle with a 4 feed line,

Yes he tuned it to pull 3 degress on the dry

Yes my wide band stops at 10.1 so it is possible that it was way to rich I will try to take some fuel pressure out of the wet and try it again

Thanks

 

ok...sounds good.

Also...scan the timing during a nitrous run with both kits running. If the dry shot is small and the wet shot is large...it may actually displace enough air behind the MAf that it decreases its reporting and kicks the timing back in that was pulled from the dry tuning.

In other words...you may see the timing pulled when the dry hits...but come right back in when the wet hits.

 

I don't think 3 degrees of timing will cause it to fall off when both stages are activated. It seems to be something that affects both kits whether it's dry first or wet first, hmmm... What was the a/f on the wet when it was used as first stage, before dry kicked in? Sounds like you have a good supply of nitrous and fuel for each stage, so...
Robert

 

no...i dodnt think 3 degrees will do that either. But its something he made need t know when he gets all this worked out.

I think its currently just too rich....and need further tuning. You got the dry working...now get the wet tuned in. Pull enough timing to cover both stages and I think youll be golden.

 

I havent tried it again yet but the wet was tuned at 11.8 and the dry was 12.1 this was on the kits 1 by 1 not together , When i sprayed the dry first it felt really good it was jetted at 100rwhp and was 12.1 when i hit the wet it was like loosing four cylinders afr drop to the 10's witch may have been way below 10.1

First pass on all dry was 6.56@105 Play back showed 12.1 pretty flat and no knock

Second pass was a 200rwhp wet 6.38@108 afr was 11.4-11.9 with no knock

Third pass both kits fell on it face when wet hit

 

whats your plug gap? What plugs...you may well have been losing 4 cylinders.
Spraying that much your gonna need .025-.028

 

TR8s gapped .035

 

id tighten them suckers up too.

 

Over a month ago he wrote asking about blowing out the spark and people said no .035 was fine. He will be correcting that in the morning. The No Bulls at LMSP is tomorrow. He kinda thought it needed to be tighter than .035

 

he may have been spraying less then. the more you spray the closer it gets. You were saying your sprayed a 200 dry this time and then a 200 dry + whatever wet shot...thats alot. And if you were rich on top of that...Id just make em as tight as practical to ELIMINATE that as a possible source of the motor falling on its face for both kits.

 

I am tring to spray a total of 300
100 dry and 200 wet

 

300 on a 383ci motor will need a pretty tight gap.

 

Greg will be doing it this week for the next TNT. I also want to get rid of the dry now.