Nitrous doesn't activate from a launch
Nitrous doesn't activate from a launch A very strange issue indeed. I have an NX wet kit @ a 150 shot but this really doesn't matter.
For some reason, whenever I launch or go from a 1st gear idle roll, my nitrous will not activate. Any other time, from a roll or a coasting in another gear, it'll work. My activation is taken from the wipers power in the inside fuse box to an activation switch + purge, to a push botton that I press with my left foot, to a WOT switch, and finally to the relay.
The only thing I can think of is the fact that I used a smaller gauge wire between the activation switch to the push button and the push button to the WOT switch. (used 16 gauge instead of 14). I have also taken out the lines to see if they would activate while the car was sitting still and it will (key on engine off)
I'm gunna rewire the push button tomorrow, but would that really be the solution?
For some reason, whenever I launch or go from a 1st gear idle roll, my nitrous will not activate. Any other time, from a roll or a coasting in another gear, it'll work. My activation is taken from the wipers power in the inside fuse box to an activation switch + purge, to a push botton that I press with my left foot, to a WOT switch, and finally to the relay.
The only thing I can think of is the fact that I used a smaller gauge wire between the activation switch to the push button and the push button to the WOT switch. (used 16 gauge instead of 14). I have also taken out the lines to see if they would activate while the car was sitting still and it will (key on engine off)
I'm gunna rewire the push button tomorrow, but would that really be the solution?
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
perhaps some electrical connection isnt all that tight, like a very important ground. Are you soldering any points or are you using a ton of insulated or noninsulated connectors?
You could also try selecting a different power point, perhaps there is something wrong with your wiper motor. 16 gauge cable should be enough IMO.
-Dan
You could also try selecting a different power point, perhaps there is something wrong with your wiper motor. 16 gauge cable should be enough IMO.
-Dan
I'm using all insulated connectors, no soldering. I'm going over all my connections again today while i have the car apart. Also, it turns out i used 18 gauge on the push button. I'll be replacing with 16 gauge since i have some today.
What other power supply should I use incase this is a wiper issue? I believe i have my bottle warmer switch running off the radio accessory fuse. I forgot the neccisary amperage I need for the nitrous switch!
What other power supply should I use incase this is a wiper issue? I believe i have my bottle warmer switch running off the radio accessory fuse. I forgot the neccisary amperage I need for the nitrous switch!
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Originally Posted by Malko
Are you saying i just have a weak right leg? That would be the stupidest solution ever...i need to put it to the test!
It has to do with people like to race their cars sitting in PIMP mode. Meaning all shretched out looking stupid in the car. You launch your body moves rearward and foot comes off the gas pedal just enough but you never know. that is what it means. Not a stupid test just a test.
Ricky
Bringing this post back from the dead.... It is not my WOT switch, nor is it my activation wiring. I just rewired again today for the 3rd time and eliminated that extra push button. Now it's just as NX recommends wiring-wise. Still works from a roll, still works with the car off, ignition on with the lines disconnected. I switched my power source to an un-fused power source still in the inside fuse box, but it worked just the same on my wiper motor fuse.
All the wiring under the hood is done very well and secured in a very professional looking way as is the inside wiring. There is nothing pulling loose. All the crimp on connecters are tight and are in working order. I am confident that this isn't an electrical problem now because of how well it is done.
Could this be some sort of freak solenoid mechanical problem?
All the wiring under the hood is done very well and secured in a very professional looking way as is the inside wiring. There is nothing pulling loose. All the crimp on connecters are tight and are in working order. I am confident that this isn't an electrical problem now because of how well it is done.
Could this be some sort of freak solenoid mechanical problem?
i had a similar problem. It would only happen at the track when i would launch out of the hole. the nitrous wouldnt activate. then all of a sudden it would hit.
Turns out it was my F.P.S.S., for whatever reason it was cutting off the nitrous when i launched.
I bypassed it and fixed all the problems. Went back to cutting 1.40 60 foots.
Turns out it was my F.P.S.S., for whatever reason it was cutting off the nitrous when i launched.
I bypassed it and fixed all the problems. Went back to cutting 1.40 60 foots.
Sounds like you don't have enough amperage to the solenoids? Are you running a relay to power then controlling the relay. The other area would be where are you grounding the solenoids to?
Hawk
Hawk
from what i can see, it ay be amperage due to bad battery/alternator...once your rolling at WOT, your voltage will spike, especially if your charging system is weak for some reason. However, that doesn't explain why it works when the car is not running...
SDB
SDB
I do notice though, that at a roll my voltage stays above 13. I'd guess 14 or whatever the alternator issupposed to be churning. At the track waiting in the staging lanes, I'm usually at 13. I this pulling the line thing in the staging lanes too (they were putting VHT onto the track and taking their time)
do you have a first gear lockout installed just going out on a limb. It would make sense as to why your not getting 1st gear but what do i know i'm just really starting to get into the N2O setups and get a couple for myself.