Hey guys I am pretty new to the whole nitrous thing and I was curious of the best way to test my nitrous setup. I beleive my kit is the F2 kit with the 100 HP pills. It is to my best knowledge that all I have to do is disconnect the lines going into the ring and click the wot while the car is running and see if fuel and nitrous come out all the specified lines. Is this true or not. And another question is how important is it to change to the NGK TR6 plugs before spraying a 100 shot on a stock engine.

 

yeah you can test it like that.

I know nothing about t56 plugs but i know of the T56 M6 transmission What you need is NGK TR6 Plugs, be sure to install those plugs because stock heat range plugs can destroy your motor on spray.

 

thats a good way to check i have those plugs in you MIGHT lose a lil bit aof power when you run without the spay but you probibly wont even notice

 

i just picked up seom tr6's today for my 99 ss,what should i gap them at?

 

.035 - .038

 

whahahah good luck on the installing the plugs!!!

check my sig quote, guess it's that time of year where everyone is changing them out!

i changed my plugs to TR6's yesterday on my birthday!! that was the 2nd best birthday ever! (first was when i was at the drag strip watching pro outlaw!!)

 

That way of testing your system sounds like a mess. All you really have to do is disconnect the nitrous from the bottle and turn on the key(don't start motor), then unhook the fuel line from the rail (a little gas will leak out) then turn on the arming switch and click the wot switch and make sure the solinoids click. make sure you don't ever spray nitrous in the engine with it off or kaboom the next time you start it. If you have awindow switch you will have to jumper the relay to ground. It is also a must to get those plugs changed the TR6's are the way to go.

 

Ok, not sure on all the info posted and I'm too tired to look thru it all.

1 Change the plugs before you spray, TR6 gapped around .038"-.035"

2 Disconnect one of the solenoids from the system, with bottle open, and nozzle outside of the ring, key on, arming switch on, trip the WOT Switch manually, with your hand, Nitrous should shoot out. Now hook up the fuel noid, and d/c the N2O noid, and repeat, holding a rag over the end of the nozzle so fuel doest spray all over the place make sure car is running for this one (dont crank the throttle, just reach down and trip the WOT switch. Fuel should spray out like a **** (might want to place nozzle in a plastic bottle to catch it all, its way cleaner). Hook the noids back up and your set.

3 Go to your testing area, do a WOT Blast, wait til 2nd gear and activate the N2O system, let it spray for a few seconds. If you can log, do so, checking Advance, KR, RPM, MAP, MAF hz, etc.. If not able to log, as soon as you shut the nitrous off, turn the ignition off, pull a plug, I suggest you pull #7 and 5, those are the two leanest cylinders. Read the plugs and adjust as necessary.

Have fun.

Charlie

 

lmao, im gonna need it its lookin like

 

Dont be looking at the plugs swap like its a PITA, its really not. Time consuming sure, but its not that hard. You just have to have a technique down and then remember what works for you. Like for me I do this:

With a cool engine (done it hot at the track and dont appreciate that):

A DC the coil pack connectors
B Pull the drivers side plug wires, and start the passenger side by pulling wires of the coils not the plugs.
C Remove the coil pack bolts, 10mm deep socket 1/4" drive**
D Remove the drivers side coil packs, then finish pulling wires off pass side plugs
E I use a spark plug socket, with a 13/16 (I think thats the size) tpaed onto the hex end of the plug socket, and then a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter with 1/4" ratchet. Fits down b/w the fender wells easy and provides enough torque to do the job. I just cant seem to get the plugs from underneath route, but like I said everyone has their own technique.
F Gap plugs. Ensure the little caps on the wire end of the plug is tight, I check and tighten with pliers, if they come loose they can give you some misfire. Use a dab of Anit-sieze on the last half of the threads and install. Use Dielectric grease on the porcelain of the plugs and the stem of the coils to ease removal next time. There will be a next time
G Install the pass wires onto the coilpacks, slide coil pack back in at an angle ( rear facing the plugs, front facing up) while tilting it, connect the #8 wire to plug with a single click, then #6 same, then set the coil pack back into place and I only use two of the coil pack bolts during install. Theres no way I need to scrape the hell outta me arm reaching under the cowl again. Been like that for 4 yrs no issues. After that, do all the wires, double click on the coils, and single click on the plugs, connect the coil pack harness.

If you have the AIR and or EGR, simply remove the 10mm Bolts and gently tilt to one side as you lift off to prevent the graphite gasket from becoming unusable. I use a good extension with swivel 10mm (not a universal, but might work) for the emission tube bolts. Use anti-sieze on them during install also. Remove the emissions first and install last if it applies.

Biggest issue we see time and time again on here about plugs..." I have a misfire (or popping, stumbling etc) and I want to spray....." I hate to say it but go back and check all the plug wires. I always go to #8, the bitch wire first as its usually the culprit. There has to be 2 clicks for the wire to coil, and 1 click wire to plug. Also the caps, again that little cap if loose can create a bitch of a time. Most ppl will go back and check the easy ones, report in saying they checked their plugs and wires all is good, what could it be? And then we all jump in there and tell them the deal, its most likely the #6 or 8 coil/wire/plug deal. Then we dont hear from them on that thread anymore, as they actually go and check it out and realize thats what they should have done the first time. Embarrassing, I guess, but we've all done it. Have fun and just enjoy the time spent with the car.

 

yup i can confirm about numb 8 being the bitch! sunday it was stumbling off it's ***, i was so proud i finished in 2 hours to find out that number 8 didnt do the second click.....that pissed me off. spent an hour and a half trying to get my way back there... gorilla arms dont help! lol



and long live mod CAT3 for being a kick *** mod!!

 

Sounds like I am getting into some ****. Probably as bad as changing them on my elcamino with a 350 and headers. Thats **** is pretty tight as well.

 

Plug changes arent bad at all once you do it once or twice. I do mine in well under an hour.

 

I decided it was easier to trade my formula in on a vette instead of changing plugs.