Preparing for 300 shot.
No need to lower compression, nitrous and compression are friends, unlike boost and compression.
I run a tubular K Member on my daily driver and racer, no issues. I put an average of 1,000miles/mo on it too.
What about tuning? Gears? Tires? Rollbar, rollcage?
Are you building the engine or having one built? Ring gaps need to be addressed as well piston used, longevity reasons go with a custom nitrous piston, lowering the ring lands to prevent breakage under extreme cylinder pressures.
Ok, you didnt mention a dedicated fuel system for the wet setup, so I will say your going to run it on the edge by pulling fuel off the stock rail, and more so once you hit the dry side. You may end up running lean, very much so, on the drivers side bank pulling 200 shot of fuel off the rail. Just my two cents. You can combat this by either running a front mount FPR and return line, or a dedicated fuel cell. I'm not sure 36# injectors will do you justice on a 382 stroker with 100shot dry! I use 42# for my 347 and nitrous. I am not close to the 80%IDC so I feel comfy with these injectors. I would recommend 42's for your application. As for spec on parts, I tell the Cust. Serv./Tech guys what I want to do and let them get the right one
I know the ring lands want to be lowered, Diamond has these, JE and anyone else...Looser ring gaps as well, but shouldnt need more Piston to Cyl clearance, just the rings at your point...now if you were wanting to go much larger maybe so. Trending Topics
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GO WITH A STANDALONE fuel cell up front. Nitro daves sells them complete for like 600 bucks with everything. Cheap considering what a serious nitrous motor runs nowadays... I'm running a custom JE piston with a 300 top ring land (meaning .300 inch from the top of the piston to the first ring land...) plenty strong and designed for pro mods spraying kits as big as 500hp.... I haven't decided how i want to fuel my plate system yet. the big shot WILL be connected to the cell.... I have enough pump and lines (10AN) that if I split the line i could run it wet but i think i'm going to run the plate dry and use the XFI to enrich the fuel map thru the injectors when the plate kicks in..... your pistons should look like this....
.300 down top ring land, <(forged or billet piston). Bore .001 extra over the recommended piston to wall clearance and a top ring gap of .028 top ring a .029 second ring. <(4.00" bore engine) Max timing of 22/24 degrees under full spray and a decated fuel system... JMHO.
Charlie
Charlie
Clearance is your friend on nitrous engines. Look at it this way. How many posts have you read about guys saying> "My car has 75,000 miles on it and I spray the snoot outta it."...Stuff like that. Now I know that doesn't have anything to do with your billet piston question but the same thing applies. I put clearance in my nitrous engine... all of them, billet, forged, cast... and I've never had a problem. The last big nitrous engine I built had a blower, a 225 HP plate and a 300 HP plate running 13lbs of boost and I drove this car on the street and to the drags... 108 miles, "one way".... And I had .008" piston clearance on a 4.00" bore... Like I said...clearance in your friend on big nitrous kits.
JMHO



